Weird squeaking sound whenever I first come on boost or start rolling

[Clint Beastwood]

Initial description:

• It sounds like metal on metal. About half the time I start from a dead stop, there's a tiny squeaking sound from somewhere up in the engine compartment. Car performs fine, no CEL's or anything. It's been doing it for several thousand miles. I have 33k on my '17 now, and its really only been driven about 3k/year since Covid lockdown originally started. I am not sure, it might be more prevalent on left turns. I was worried for a bit that it might be turbocharger related, but it builds boost quickly and smoothly according to my AP, I've grabbed the engine and mashed it around by hand with no noises. Not sure where to look/check, I grabbed a flashlight and looked for powdered metal or any shiny spots that shouldn't be shiny but I'm coming up empty handed.

To replicate:

• When at a dead stop, put car into gear and start rolling. If I take off without touching the throttle, no noise. If I give it a little gas and start to build boost, I hear the squeak for a sec and it goes away.

Considerations:

• It does seem to be more common if I did any compression braking to stop before taking off again, like downshifting to stop at a light (this made me think something mount-wise was shifting around).
• I am not positive, but it might be more frequent if I am turning left slightly.
• No clunking, etc. from the front end while beating the heck out of it.
• Car still breaks traction and pulls in a straight line when getting on the throttle in first and second, and the first bit of third. The tires just break smoothly until they catch, with just the normal tugging in whatever direction has more traction.

 

[thecman02]

Just to clarify a metal on metal squeaking... so higher pitched sound. How long does it squeak when it does? I'd check for maybe an every so slightly loose heatshield. My wifes car had a squeak to that evolved into a lower pitched rattle off idle take off due to heatshield bolt backing off.

 

[Clint Beastwood]

Just to clarify a metal on metal squeaking... so higher pitched sound. How long does it squeak when it does? I'd check for maybe an every so slightly loose heatshield. My wifes car had a squeak to that evolved into a lower pitched rattle off idle take off due to heatshield bolt backing off.

I’ll go jiggle some heat shields but it sounded like heavier metal on metal, there was no hollowness or ringing to it. I’ll have to check my rmm I guess, I have a Cobb but it’s not impossible the rubber is blow out or bolt loose. No thumping though like it did with the stock rmm.

 

[FiestaSTdude]

This probably isn't your issue, but I had a control arm making a squeaking sound ever though it felt fine. My mechanic friend couldn't figure it out for a while.

 

[Fiestig]

If you have a cat back with band clamps, check to see that they are tight. I had a similar issue with hard launches and hard lefts. Just needed to tighten the clamps.

 

[Clint Beastwood]

This probably isn't your issue, but I had a control arm making a squeaking sound ever though it felt fine. My mechanic friend couldn't figure it out for a while.

hm interesting I’ll investigate a way to isolate that. Scientific method here we come!

 

[Clint Beastwood]

If you have a cat back with band clamps, check to see that they are tight. I had a similar issue with hard launches and hard lefts. Just needed to tighten the clamps.

I’m on my stock exhaust but I did have it v-banded when I removed it to develop my couple of custom systems. I’ll go give it a jiggle and twist - thanks!

 

[dhminer]

We’re all just throwing darts lol so I’ll add mine. Passenger side mount bolt could be sheared.

 

[Clint Beastwood]

We’re all just throwing darts lol so I’ll add mine. Passenger side mount bolt could be sheared.

well that could certainly be a pain in the balls, so thats probably it lol

 

[dhminer]

well that could certainly be a pain in the balls, so thats probably it lol

It’s actually not bad to replace with the stronger ARP bolt from Ron

 

[Clint Beastwood]

It’s actually not bad to replace with the stronger ARP bolt from Ron

yeah I ordered one a long time ago along with some poly mount inserts for the pass/driver side, but they disappeared while moving. I'll probably just order the whole shebang again. Need to find a local shop that'll do the install of all of it.

 

[Magnetic]

Initial description:

• It sounds like metal on metal. About half the time I start from a dead stop, there's a tiny squeaking sound from somewhere up in the engine compartment. Car performs fine, no CEL's or anything. It's been doing it for several thousand miles. I have 33k on my '17 now, and its really only been driven about 3k/year since Covid lockdown originally started. I am not sure, it might be more prevalent on left turns. I was worried for a bit that it might be turbocharger related, but it builds boost quickly and smoothly according to my AP, I've grabbed the engine and mashed it around by hand with no noises. Not sure where to look/check, I grabbed a flashlight and looked for powdered metal or any shiny spots that shouldn't be shiny but I'm coming up empty handed.

To replicate:

• When at a dead stop, put car into gear and start rolling. If I take off without touching the throttle, no noise. If I give it a little gas and start to build boost, I hear the squeak for a sec and it goes away.

Considerations:

• It does seem to be more common if I did any compression braking to stop before taking off again, like downshifting to stop at a light (this made me think something mount-wise was shifting around).
• I am not positive, but it might be more frequent if I am turning left slightly.
• No clunking, etc. from the front end while beating the heck out of it.
• Car still breaks traction and pulls in a straight line when getting on the throttle in first and second, and the first bit of third. The tires just break smoothly until they catch, with just the normal tugging in whatever direction has more traction.

Mine does the same thing sometimes. I don't know what it is so let us know when you find out.

 

[Clint Beastwood]

Just looping back on this. I swapped back to my stock intake, and can no longer hear the metal on metal sound. I flipped back to the aftermarket intake, and I can hear the metal on metal squealing when the turbo starts spinning again. It doesn't sound good - but I don't really know what to poke at. The turbo boosts fine and there's no noticeable power loss, but I do smell more burning oil smell now and with the loud intake I can hear the squealing sound so... I don't know what other moving parts there are than the impeller. If anyone has recommendations for what to look at I'd love to hear it. I'm going to go out on a limb and guess maybe the turbo bearings... except the car otherwise runs fine.

 

[thecman02]

If you aren't running catch cans the next checks aren't as valuable, but I'd look for excessive oil on the outlet of the turbo. Higher than a very thin film would indicate that the oil seals/chra bearing might be on the way out. Slighty more involved would be getting you hands on the actual turbo compressor and wiggle for side to side (radial) and/or in and out (axial) play. No in and out play is acceptable. With a turbo this small too I wouldn't expect any radial play. If you can get eyes on it too... you can check for burrs on the edge of the compressor blades.

 

[Clint Beastwood]

No catch cans. I'll see if I can get the inlet hose off the turbo to poke at the impeller.

I'm mobility limited in the hands dept. so I'll start calling around to see if I can find a mechanic to take a look. I'm going to guess if its the turbo I'm not in for a bunch of fun. I'll have to go stock turbo if it's bad, due to CA smog - should I just go to the dealership? only 33k miles but I'm OOW by time, unless the turbo covered under the bumper to bumper.

 

[Dialcaliper]

Before doing anything drastic, you might check if your diverter valve on the turbo is sticky or not sealing properly - given that you’re hearing it with the intake and it might be somewhere near the turbo - it’s worth checking - pressure venting through narrow gaps can make some pretty terrible shrieks

 

[Clint Beastwood]

Before doing anything drastic, you might check if your diverter valve on the turbo is sticky or not sealing properly - given that you’re hearing it with the intake and it might be somewhere near the turbo - it’s worth checking - pressure venting through narrow gaps can make some pretty terrible shrieks

Thanks -- I have a turbosmart em2 around here somewhere I could swap on fairly quickly.

 

[Clint Beastwood]

I know it's been a long time but I wanted to follow-up. I finally found the culprit!

I had a cobb RMM - both of the metal bushings in the poly mounts came loose - when cold, they would rotate/spin under torque and squeak. When I checked after a drive, the poly would be hot and swell just enough that the bushings didn't squeak. I bought a whoosh rmm because I figured the cobb would be getting worn out after ~35k miles. When I pulled it out I grabbed it by the bushing, the bushing spun, and it made the squeaking sound. :facepalm:

posting here for posterity's sake, if anyone searches in the future.

Whoosh rmm fit perfect. Not a fan of the yellow, but its a well made mount and everything fit perfectly as expected.

 

[Fiestig]

Mine had started again and it actually ended up being the mid poly exhaust hanger moving and allowing the exhaust to rub against the hanger mount, thus metal on metal more when going left than right. Added a hanger lock collar to keep the poly hanger in place and no noise for a few months now.

 

[Clint Beastwood]

Mine had started again and it actually ended up being the mid poly exhaust hanger moving and allowing the exhaust to rub against the hanger mount, thus metal on metal more when going left than right. Added a hanger lock collar to keep the poly hanger in place and no noise for a few months now.

those locking collars are awesome, bought a bag early into fist ownership and ive since added them to several cars. So handy.