What Monitors are you using on your Cobb AP?

[SuperchargedTundra]

Hey guys,

Just looking to see what everyone is running or what is suggested?

Currently I have:

Boost
AFR
intake temp
charge temp
oil temp

 

[wrongwheeldrive]

Speed
Current gear (I use this one a lot)
Oil Temp
Coolant temp
Boost
Charge Temp

 

[degnerd]

Speed
Current gear (I use this one a lot)
Oil Temp
Coolant temp
Boost
Charge Temp

current gear...that would be handy

 

[Kip2MyLou]

RPM
Ambient temp
Charge temp
Boost
AFR
Coolant Temp

 

[airjor13]

Map Slot, AFR, PSI, Cyl.4 Correction, Cyl.4 Knock Count, Charge Air Temp.

 

[westcoaST]

Boost Pressure
Intake Temp
Charge air temp
Oil Temp
Radiator Temp
Map which tune I am running 1 for 91 octane 2 for e30 MAPerformance tunes ROCK!
Oct Adj Ratio Lrn

I have both the Deadhook crash bar and IC, and the Mountune airbox or the 2JR cowl induction. That is why I monitor all my temps.

When I'm tuning I run Ignition cyl knock correction (Ign Corr Cyl X) 1 through 4, in place of the temps.

 

[Zissou]

Boost
AFR
Charge Temp
RPM
Est. Torque for fun
Another boost. ALL THE BOOST. Jk I can't remember what the last one is.

 

[FORZDA 2]

I've settled on these parameters for "normal" driving. If I've made any significant changes to the tune, I'll replace the temps with the change-related parameters. When I'm happy with the tune, then back to the "normal" parameters for monitoring engine systems performance.

Boost Pressure
Load Actual
Coolant Temp
Oil Temp
Intake Air Temp
Charge Air Temp

 

[Kip2MyLou]

What's the reasonable parameters for oil and intake temps? Or are those based off climate? I know how charge and ambient temps relate.

 

[FORZDA 2]

What's the reasonable parameters for oil and intake temps? Or are those based off climate? I know how charge and ambient temps relate.

The intake temp is climate related and generally runs within a couple degrees of the outside air temp as indicated on the instrument panel and/or the SYNC display. I use it to keep relative tabs on the Charge Temp which should run within +/- a couple degrees of Outside/Intake Temp unless at WOT/max boost (High Load). Also, don't use the "ambient" temp parameter as it is derived and wholly inaccurate for any meaningful real-time comparisons.

The oil temp is also derived, but is very accurate as compared to my other turbo car where I installed a real-time oil temp gauge. The oil temp should run fairly close to and ~10-15 deg below the coolant temp at low rpms/speed (Low Load) in town and around ~10-15 deg above (190-210 deg F) at ~80mph highway cruising speeds. The Oil Temp runs ~25-30 deg higher than coolant with higher Load/Boost.

 

[Kip2MyLou]

The intake temp is climate related and generally runs within a couple degrees of the outside air temp as indicated on the instrument panel and/or the SYNC display. I use it to keep relative tabs on the Charge Temp which should run within +/- a couple degrees of Outside/Intake Temp unless at WOT/max boost (High Load). Also, don't use the "ambient" temp parameter as it is derived and wholly inaccurate for any meaningful real-time comparisons.

The oil temp is also derived, but is very accurate as compared to my other turbo car where I installed a real-time oil temp gauge. The oil temp should run fairly close to and ~10-15 deg below the coolant temp at low rpms/speed (Low Load) in town and around ~10-15 deg above (190-210 deg F) at ~80mph highway cruising speeds. The Oil Temp runs ~25-30 deg higher than coolant with higher Load/Boost.

I was wondering about the ambient temp gauge. It's always different than the temps given by the car. So don't any look at the ambient temp and use another guage? Just relate the charge temps to the displayed outside temps on the cars display?

 

[FORZDA 2]

.... Just relate the charge temps to the displayed outside temps on the cars display?

Yes, and to the intake air temp. That is the most accurate indication of how well the ic is working and of the temp of the air the engine is actually ingesting.

 

[Kip2MyLou]

Yes, and to the intake air temp. That is the most accurate indication of how well the ic is working and of the temp of the air the engine is actually ingesting.

Awesome, thanks. I was always under the assumption the ambient reading was more accurate than the displayed temp in the car. Cool. Just free'd up another gauge on my AP. Ha.

 

[AMontgomery]

Boost gauge
Octane Adjustment Ratio
Ignition Advance Cylinder 1
Charge Air Temperature
Knock Count Cylinder 1
Oil Temperature

 

[Joshyfresh6953]

Now that time has passed and so many have tuned their cars, can anyone give their top parameters to monitor via AP when you FIRST get a NEW TUNE other than the standard parameters of

- Boost Pressure
- Oil Temp
- Coolant Temp
- Charge Air Temp
- AFR

during everyday monitoring?

I've seen a lot of people recommending monitoring OAR & Ignition Corrections on all 4 cylinders when you FIRST load a new tune along with knock count on all 4 cylinders...

1. What are "normal" numbers for OAR and Ignition Correction? & when should one be alarmed there is a potential issue if seeing numbers meet or exceed "x"?

Thanks guys!

 

[MD2020]

Now that time has passed and so many have tuned their cars, can anyone give their top parameters to monitor via AP when you FIRST get a NEW TUNE other than the standard parameters of

- Boost Pressure
- Oil Temp
- Coolant Temp
- Charge Air Temp
- AFR

during everyday monitoring?

I've seen a lot of people recommending monitoring OAR & Ignition Corrections on all 4 cylinders when you FIRST load a new tune along with knock count on all 4 cylinders...

1. What are "normal" numbers for OAR and Ignition Correction? & when should one be alarmed there is a potential issue if seeing numbers meet or exceed "x"?

Thanks guys!

Curious if you ever got an answer here

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Curious if you ever got an answer here

-1.00 OAR IS what you want to be at all times. If you fall to say 0.90- 0.85 then you have poor gas quality. DONT GET GIVE IT THE BEANS. Ignition corrections are a rabbit hole you might not want to travel down. Ideally you wanna see is 0 but that is not likely as everyone has ignition corrections at one point in time OR every so often + positive numbers are good and - negative numbers aren't always bad either but you don't want to see them constantly as that would indicate the tune your using needs to be touched up or monitored closely to avoid turning your Engine into lawn art.

 

[MachineryActual]

-1.00 OAR IS what you want to be at all times. If you fall to say 0.90- 0.85 then you have poor gas quality. DONT GET GIVE IT THE BEANS. Ignition corrections are a rabbit hole you might not want to travel down. Ideally you wanna see is 0 but that is not likely as everyone has ignition corrections at one point in time OR every so often + positive numbers are good and - negative numbers aren't always bad either but you don't want to see them constantly as that would indicate the tune your using needs to be touched up or monitored closely to avoid turning your Engine into lawn art.

I just got +15 tonight and ive been driving the car/tune for over two months. Last time i got gas was over a week ago, so i have no idea what changed. Thats seems like a high number, but im honestly totally new to this and dont REALLY know what im talking about. Any advice? Edit: Im on a cobb stage 2 OST tune and ive heard thats not a great idea.

 

[NATYPE]

I just got +15 tonight and ive been driving the car/tune for over two months. Last time i got gas was over a week ago, so i have no idea what changed. Thats seems like a high number, but im honestly totally new to this and dont REALLY know what im talking about. Any advice? Edit: Im on a cobb stage 2 OST tune and ive heard thats not a great idea.

Any chance you were looking at the ignition correction angle / degrees? It's something like that and it's right before ignition correction in the menu. Scared the shit out of myself thinking I was seeing wild corrections and even sent a log to MonsterTuned before realizing what I was actually looking at.

 

[NATYPE]

After freshly swapping tunes, always OAR and maybe boost pressure to make sure things are falling in spec.

If I'm on the E30 tune (I don't have an ethanol content sensor) my grid looks like this.

Ign Correction Cyl 1 / Ign Correction Cyl 3
Coolant Temp / LTFT
AFR / STFT

Using long term and short term fuel trims to estimate overall ethanol content. I'm just winging it at Sheetz aiming for E38ish based on my rough math and how the station seems to vary within expected ranges.

If I'm on the 93 tune from Dizzy or MonsterTuned I'll monitor the following...

Ign Correction Cyl 1 / Ign Correction Cyl 3
Coolant Temp / Charge Temp
AFR / Boost Pressure