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Whoosh Motorsports Coolant Hoses INSTALL/REVIEW (picture and text heavy)

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Location
Buffalo, NY
#1
First things first. If you think it's going to be a quick and dirty install. You're wrong.
If you're not comfortable messing with the serp belt, battery disconnects, and following long procedures, pay someone to do this.

Install took me 2.5-3 hours total with the use of a lift. (upper hose alone gives 1.4 hrs book time)

So here's what is getting installed. Quality is as always, amazing.


Batteries are dead but they're right around 0.250 inches in thickness


As crazy as it sounds, step one is taking out your passenger side headlight. Yes, its needed.


Hiding behind the alternator you can see the upper portion of the lower radiator hose


I don't care what tools you have, how small your hands are, you HAVE to remove the alternator.
Start off by removing your serp belt. get a 17mm wrench on the tensioner and push toward the front of the car. Slide the belt off of any pulley you want to. I chose the idler pulley and the alternator considering that's what I was removing anyways.
There is a splash shield covering these that needs to be removed, it's two torex screws, same size as the ones for the headlight.


You can leave the belt draped around the rest of the pulleys - here's a belt routing diagram for reference.




Back to the top of the car, disconnect your battery + or -, either will work.
there's two bolts and a nut you have to remove, all are 15mm, one plug, and the battery cable on the alternator under a cover. The nut for the battery cable is 13mm
The bolt on top and the nut are easy to get at, the bolt at the bottom of the alternator is between the idler pulley and the water pump pulley, use an extension and a swivel socket to make it easy to take out.
One thing left. The stud that the nut comes off of at the top of the alternator (number 2 in the picture) needs to be removed in order to get the alternator out. It's a E8 size.




The alternator will come out between the A/C line and the coolant tube that feeds the degas chamber, its a tight squeeze but it will fit. That will leave you with this view.
You can see the upper portion of the lower rad hose right by the blue dot.


Get a pair of hose clamp pliers and get the top clamp off, after go back under the car and do the same to the lower section of the hose, have something ready to collect the coolant that's going to drain out of the system


Fitment on the Whoosh Hose is spot on.








Reinstall in reverse order, torque spec on the bolts and nuts for the alternator are 17 lb-ft

Well that sucked, huh?
Get ready to hate yourself some more.
I didn't grab a whole ton of pictures for the upper hose because i was too busy swearing.
If you still have a sound symposer installed, remove it. Then throw it out and put in a delete from whoosh. it'll make this in stall go easier for you.
Now that the symposer is out of the way you can get to the block side of the upper rad hose.
There's another coolant hose on top of it going to a valve, take that off the valve and move it out of the way, use whatever tools you have to get to the clamp and get that off. I ended up using 45 degree long reach pliers to turn the clamp and then get on the with a pair of hose clamp pliers.
You can see the clamp for the hose with the red paint mark on it.


This picture shows how buried it is without removing anything.


Again, fitment is perfect.


Remove the clamp at the radiator side of the hose, remove the hose being careful of getting it off the block side, its on a plastic housing.
Reinstall in reverse order of removal.

Now get some of this.


You can get it in a 50/50 mix already, just remember half of what you're paying for is a $0.99 gallon of distilled water.

Now, to fill the system with coolant. I'm just going to cheat and copy this directly from the ford procedure. PDF is attached to this post if anyone wants it.

FORD STUFF said:
Filling

NOTE: Steps 7 through 19 is required to remove any
remaining air pockets from the cooling system.
Install the vacuum cooling system filler and follow the manufacturer's instructions to fill and bleed the
system. Use the General Equipment: Cooling System Vacuum Tester and Refiller

1. Measure the coolant concentration in the vehicle. Use Special Service Tool: ROB75240
Coolant/Battery Refractometer (Fahrenheit).
Determine the concentration desired based on the vehicle duty cycle of extreme hot or cold
operating conditions.
Add, top-off or adjust the coolant as follows:
For concentrations measured 48/52 to 50/50 (freeze protection -34°C to -37°C [-30°F to -34°F])
use Motorcraft ® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant Prediluted to maintain a coolant concentration in this
same range.
Material: Motorcraft ® Orange Prediluted Antifreeze/Coolant / VC-3DIL-B (WSS-M97B44-D2)
For all other concentrations, use Motorcraft ® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant Concentrated and/or
distilled water to get to the desired concentration.
Material: Motorcraft ® Orange Concentrated Antifreeze/Coolant / VC-3-B (WSS-M97B44-D)
When refilling the engine coolant after a flush procedure, use a mixture of Motorcraft ® Orange
Antifreeze/Coolant Concentrated and distilled water to get to the desired concentration.

2. Recommended coolant concentration is 48/52 to 50/50 engine coolant to distilled water (freeze
protection -34°C to -37°C [-30°F to -34°F]).

3. For extremely cold climates (less than -37°C [-34°F]):
It may be necessary to increase the coolant concentration above 50%.
NEVER increase the coolant concentration above 60%.
Maximum coolant concentration is 60/40 for cold weather areas.
A coolant concentration of 60% provides freeze protection down to -50°C (-58°F)
Engine coolant concentration above 60% will decrease the overheat protection characteristics of
the engine coolant and may damage the engine.

4. For extremely hot climates:
It is still necessary to maintain the coolant concentration above 40%.
NEVER decrease the coolant concentration below 40%.
Minimum coolant concentration is 40/60 for warm weather areas.
A coolant concentration of 40% provides freeze point protection down to the following temperature.
Temperature: -15 °F (-26 °C)
Engine coolant concentration below 40% will decrease the freeze protection characteristics of the
engine coolant and may damage the engine.

5. Vehicles driven year-round in non-extreme climates should use a 48/52 to 50/50 (freeze protection -34°C
to -37°C [-30°F to -34°F]) mixture of engine coolant and distilled water for optimum cooling system and
engine protection.

6. Fill the degas bottle to the MAX FILL line.

7. Install the degas bottle cap until it contacts the hard stop.

8. Turn the climate control system off.

9. Start the engine and increase the engine speed to 3, 500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds.

10. Turn the engine off for and wait for 1 minute to purge any large air pockets from the cooling system.

11. WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening
the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief
cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot.
The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can
come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to
follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.

12. Check the engine coolant level in degas bottle and if necessary fill to the top of the MAX FILL line on the
degas bottle if the engine is warm or to the top of the MIN FILL LEVEL if the engine is cold.
Start the engine and let it idle until the engine reaches normal operating temperature and the thermostat
is fully open. A fully open thermostat is verified by the cooling fan cycling on at least once.

13. Increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds.

14. Allow the engine to idle for 30 seconds.

15. Turn the engine off for 1 minute.

16. Repeat steps 14 through 16 a total of 10 times to remove any remaining air trapped in the system.

17. WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening
the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief
cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot.
The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can
come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to
follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.
Check the engine coolant level in degas bottle and if necessary fill to the top of the MAX FILL line on the
degas bottle.

18. Install the pressure relief cap until it contacts the hard stop.
Congrats. You're done. You now have super robust, barely any flex when hot, wont blow up on your stage 4 tune, Whoosh Motorsports Coolant Hoses.

If you want these and to spend a saturday morning turning wrenches click HERE to purchase them!
 


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ron@whoosh

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#2
bravo !!!!

amazing write up as usual
there are many that don't use this section for information, just parts but they are certainly missing out!

I owe you big time for this one. I have some other cool new goodies coming.....
Much easier installs.....promise!


thanks again!

-Ron
 


brbauer2

Active member
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St. Charles
#3
Well, that was a bitch of an install.

Intended benefits of the new hoses?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
 


OP
pirite
Messages
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Location
Buffalo, NY
Thread Starter #4
Well, that was a bitch of an install.

Intended benefits of the new hoses?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
Quality of materials, I've seen on other cars blowing rad hoses when the boost goes up from generated heat. Also MUCH less flex when hot. i could barely squeeze them when the car was at operating temp.
Not to mention they look SO much better (and match my whoosh boost hoses)
 


TyphoonFiST

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#6
They call those Toe thumbs....megan fox has or had them.....so point is... shes Hot and also has that feature.



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Last edited:

ron@whoosh

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#7
These coolant hoses will come in handy this coming summer season when "cooling" mods are the hot ticket so to speak
When upgrading the radiator, 1 our of every 2 orders would add a set of Mishimoto radiator hoses
Short version of a long story, many customers were not happy with the product fitment and a lot of times, they were out of stock in red color especially.

This is no longer the case..........
 


Messages
87
Likes
36
Location
Huntington
#8
Wow, I was going to pick these up after I painted an oem radiator I got from a part out. Thanks sooo much for posting this so I know what I'm in for.

The FiST is my first tuner car. The only thing holding me back is the fear of screwing up my car because of the serpentine belt. I'm totally fine with long procedures and the battery disconnect. The first part I ever put in this car was a downpipe.

Would you say an inexperienced person can put in these hoses with some confidence? Or is damaging the car via making a mistake with the serpentine belt a worry?

Thanks for the guide again Pirite!
 


OP
pirite
Messages
152
Likes
146
Location
Buffalo, NY
Thread Starter #9
Wow, I was going to pick these up after I painted an oem radiator I got from a part out. Thanks sooo much for posting this so I know what I'm in for.

The FiST is my first tuner car. The only thing holding me back is the fear of screwing up my car because of the serpentine belt. I'm totally fine with long procedures and the battery disconnect. The first part I ever put in this car was a downpipe.

Would you say an inexperienced person can put in these hoses with some confidence? Or is damaging the car via making a mistake with the serpentine belt a worry?

Thanks for the guide again Pirite!
There really isnt much you can damage with the serp belt.
I added a belt routing diagram for reference to the OP to make things easier.
Biggest thing i saw with the serp belt is to just be careful of the crank position sensor when doing it. Other than that if you just put it back on as per the diagram you shouldn't have any issues.
 


Messages
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36
Location
Huntington
#10
Awesome! I'm eventually going to order these then.

I'm getting ready to add some flair to my engine bay. The whoosh hoses will definitely work nicely :)


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