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How-To: Bleed brakes with ForScan
- Thread starter Jabbit
- Start date
I got my FORScan-recommended cable (OBD-Lind EX) and downloaded the $12/year current FORScan. You need to download the cable's app, as stated in the cable's instruction sheet. It took many tries to get FORScan to connect to my ST, but eventually it did. I don't know what I did correctly to connect it.
I put fluid in my Motive bleeder and pressurized to 15 psi, per the FSM. I had all four calipers ready to bleed. I was disappointed to see that FORScan only offered the basic ABS Service Bleed procedure, but did not give the menu for bleeding individual components. I ran the basic ABS bleed and it went through several cycles of press brake/pump activates/release brake. I didn't keep track of how many times, but it might have been four.
I had previously flushed the fluid, but figured I'd better do it again, since the ABS module bleed may have released air/dirt/old fluid into the system. I then pressure bled the brakes (RR, LR, RF, LF) until the fluid was the same color as from the bottle (RBF600, which is slightly amber). This took a lot of fluid at the first (RR) caliper. Although I was getting fresh fluid at the caliper, it was still a little dark but continued to get gradually lighter. I guess it was from whatever the ABS released and/or was cleaning out other deposits from the system. After the RR caliper, it didn't take nearly as long to get fresh-colored fluid at the other calipers. I used two 500ml bottles of fluid.
There were a few small air bubbles at each corner, but there were more at the LF. I opened and closed the LF bleeder, getting a few small bubbles each time. But, because I kept getting bubbles, I wanted to be sure it wasn't just some residual air leaking in from the bleeder when I would open it. So, I raised my bleeder bottle above the caliper, with the hose pointing down to the caliper, full of fluid. I also tapped the caliper with a plastic hammer before opening the bleeder. I did this a few more times, and continued to get small bubble each time I opened and closed...until I didn't.
Previously, the pedal needed inconsistent amounts of pressure, regardless of whether the brakes were hot or cold. On the test drive, the inconsistent pedal was fixed! Overall, I'm still not excited about the ST's pedal. I'd still like it to be firmer, and not grabby on the initial bite, but at least now it's consistent and I know what to expect. I'll do a hard run down the mountain and while I expect the pedal to get softer, I'll see if it at least stays consistent. If so, I'll be a believer that you have bleed the ABS module when you fully flush or bleed brakes. Then I'll be looking for street-performance pads that can take some heat and have less initial bite.
TyphoonFist copied me on a FORScan forum thread in which FORScan said the individual component bleeding procedures were for UK STs, but they had added it by request to a USA ST and it worked. TyphoonFist asked FORScan to do it for him, but they never replied. I just made the same request.
I put fluid in my Motive bleeder and pressurized to 15 psi, per the FSM. I had all four calipers ready to bleed. I was disappointed to see that FORScan only offered the basic ABS Service Bleed procedure, but did not give the menu for bleeding individual components. I ran the basic ABS bleed and it went through several cycles of press brake/pump activates/release brake. I didn't keep track of how many times, but it might have been four.
I had previously flushed the fluid, but figured I'd better do it again, since the ABS module bleed may have released air/dirt/old fluid into the system. I then pressure bled the brakes (RR, LR, RF, LF) until the fluid was the same color as from the bottle (RBF600, which is slightly amber). This took a lot of fluid at the first (RR) caliper. Although I was getting fresh fluid at the caliper, it was still a little dark but continued to get gradually lighter. I guess it was from whatever the ABS released and/or was cleaning out other deposits from the system. After the RR caliper, it didn't take nearly as long to get fresh-colored fluid at the other calipers. I used two 500ml bottles of fluid.
There were a few small air bubbles at each corner, but there were more at the LF. I opened and closed the LF bleeder, getting a few small bubbles each time. But, because I kept getting bubbles, I wanted to be sure it wasn't just some residual air leaking in from the bleeder when I would open it. So, I raised my bleeder bottle above the caliper, with the hose pointing down to the caliper, full of fluid. I also tapped the caliper with a plastic hammer before opening the bleeder. I did this a few more times, and continued to get small bubble each time I opened and closed...until I didn't.
Previously, the pedal needed inconsistent amounts of pressure, regardless of whether the brakes were hot or cold. On the test drive, the inconsistent pedal was fixed! Overall, I'm still not excited about the ST's pedal. I'd still like it to be firmer, and not grabby on the initial bite, but at least now it's consistent and I know what to expect. I'll do a hard run down the mountain and while I expect the pedal to get softer, I'll see if it at least stays consistent. If so, I'll be a believer that you have bleed the ABS module when you fully flush or bleed brakes. Then I'll be looking for street-performance pads that can take some heat and have less initial bite.
TyphoonFist copied me on a FORScan forum thread in which FORScan said the individual component bleeding procedures were for UK STs, but they had added it by request to a USA ST and it worked. TyphoonFist asked FORScan to do it for him, but they never replied. I just made the same request.
Yes, FORScan was very responsive to my email, in which I offered to test this if they would send me a test version. They said it is the European version, and includes the individual component bleeding. I connected the car to FORScan and all of the component tests were listed, but I haven't had a chance to actually run them yet. Hopefully I'll have a full report later this week, or this weekend.
The revised FORScan works! I was able to use all of the individual component bleeds within the ABS Service: inluding ABS module; Master Cylinder; each wheel's caliper.
Be ready with two bleed tubes and bottles, and two 8mm and two 11mm box wrenches for the ABS and Master Cylinder bleeds, which bleed through both front calipers at once and then both rear calipers at once...apparently bleeding the whole system from the Master or ABS to the calipers.
There's no need to select the Caliper bleed option for each wheel if you've already done the Master or ABS function. I wanted to do the whole system, so I did the Master bleed and then the ABS bleed. This used about about 1.5 liters of fluid (including when I first unnecessarily bled both rear calipers before the Master and ABS bleeds).
When you are instructed to open or close bleeder screws, open or close them before clicking OK.
I didn't know that my ignition-on mode timed out during one of the procedures. It said the procedure was interrupted, and I couldn't restart it until I realized there were no dash lights on.
I used a Motive pressure bleeder at about 15 psi, as the ABS Service instructions indicate. I had to add pressure after the Master bleed, before doing the ABS module bleed.
I'll email FORScan and let them know its working. Maybe they'll do a general update to allow these individual functions.
Be ready with two bleed tubes and bottles, and two 8mm and two 11mm box wrenches for the ABS and Master Cylinder bleeds, which bleed through both front calipers at once and then both rear calipers at once...apparently bleeding the whole system from the Master or ABS to the calipers.
There's no need to select the Caliper bleed option for each wheel if you've already done the Master or ABS function. I wanted to do the whole system, so I did the Master bleed and then the ABS bleed. This used about about 1.5 liters of fluid (including when I first unnecessarily bled both rear calipers before the Master and ABS bleeds).
When you are instructed to open or close bleeder screws, open or close them before clicking OK.
I didn't know that my ignition-on mode timed out during one of the procedures. It said the procedure was interrupted, and I couldn't restart it until I realized there were no dash lights on.
I used a Motive pressure bleeder at about 15 psi, as the ABS Service instructions indicate. I had to add pressure after the Master bleed, before doing the ABS module bleed.
I'll email FORScan and let them know its working. Maybe they'll do a general update to allow these individual functions.
This one works perfect. No pics of it in use, but you just screw the cap onto the reservoir and pump it to 15 psi. Worked perfectly for clutch bleed as well.
Motive Products 0108 Brake System... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TK9FE8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Motive Products 0108 Brake System... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TK9FE8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Precisely. Add ~1.5L and pump it up. Pressurizes the whole system and keeps the reservoir full at the same time. I had my doubts, mostly “how does the fluid get pumped in without any air?” I don’t understand the physics, but it absolutely works. At 15 psi it moves fluid pretty quick. 20 psi for the clutch. You’ll even have to remove a small amount of fluid from the reservoir when done because it’s totally full.
With the Motive pressure bleeder, you’ll need the Motive adapter/cap for the ST reservoir: the1108 GM Adapter. It fits my 2017, but I don’t know which other years.
I used the thicker washer of the two that come with the 1108. I had to press hard to get the cap to catch the tabs on the reservoir, so I put a thin wood shim between the bottom of the reservoir and the strut tower, to take the stress off of the reservoir mount.
And always release the pressure from the reservoir by very slowly unscrewing the top of the bleeder bottle, NOT by unscrewing the adapter from the reservoir. Otherwise the pressurized fluid sprays out from the reservoir. I haven’t made that mistake twice…yet.
I used the thicker washer of the two that come with the 1108. I had to press hard to get the cap to catch the tabs on the reservoir, so I put a thin wood shim between the bottom of the reservoir and the strut tower, to take the stress off of the reservoir mount.
And always release the pressure from the reservoir by very slowly unscrewing the top of the bleeder bottle, NOT by unscrewing the adapter from the reservoir. Otherwise the pressurized fluid sprays out from the reservoir. I haven’t made that mistake twice…yet.
Lots of info here, so forgive the clarifications.
So, I had the rear/left caliper ripped off on the track. Lost lots of fluid …. I assume easily down to the ABS module.
Once I bleed the newly installed caliper, if I want to bleed the ABS, is it enough to run the FORSCAN ABS service cycle only through the new caliper, or does the procedure have to be repeated across all calipers?
I’ve bled brakes 1001 times, but I’ve never let the level drops below MIN, so this condition is new ….
So, I had the rear/left caliper ripped off on the track. Lost lots of fluid …. I assume easily down to the ABS module.
Once I bleed the newly installed caliper, if I want to bleed the ABS, is it enough to run the FORSCAN ABS service cycle only through the new caliper, or does the procedure have to be repeated across all calipers?
I’ve bled brakes 1001 times, but I’ve never let the level drops below MIN, so this condition is new ….
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