Speakers, amplifier, and subwoofer - upgrade and installation how to

[maestromaestro]

UPDATE:
The Kicker sub was replaced under warranty by the vendor, which is nice, as they're not an authorized dealer of the brand. These subs apparently do conk out quickly, if you're got one of the "bad" ones. So, we'll see how the replacement holds up.

Also, I installed the LC2i device - it does make a whole lot of difference, let me tell ya. Perhaps not so much - my ears'-wise, anyway - in restoring the attenuated low-end frequencies at higher volume, but enhancing the bass, and adding 2 more degree of freedom when it comes to tweaking the bass levels. The way I had the LC2i connected is the output of the fixed bass channels went to the powered sub (the 8" Kicker), and the "high frequency" main output went to the JLAudio channels powering the rear speakers.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/h0tqjzIBv6udHufJ2



This arrangement allows for not only increasing the gain on the bass by both the LC2i and the Kicker, but also the level of the bass on both devices, and the thing that I like the most - increasing the volume of the rear speakers independently of the fronts (which is similar to what you could do by changing the rear/front fade in the Audio settings of the Sony head unit).

So, after messing with the controls on the Sony head unit, the LC2i device, and the Kicker sub, I arrived at what I think is a major improvement from the pre-LC2i days. The bass is now much more booming (there is a lot of depth to the sound), and both the rear speakers and the sub are now "opened up".

There is still, unfortunately, the parasitic noise in the speakers upon powering up of the components. Short of rerouting the power or the speaker wires, there's not much to be done to fix it. Oh, well...

 

[Intuit]

The Alpine amp that is soldered (via twisted-pair) to the rear, even with gain and boost zeroed, AND the Sony radio bass fully reduced, is still much too loud. It is a 2 ohm tuned dual-ported setup which means it's efficient. Fortunately I have the option of using the rear fader as a third means of control. I'll have to go negative on the gain control on the amp. IIRC I'm on Sync version 2.0. I thought speaker-level input would sound worse than it does. Not as good as line-in input but it's decent enough when the volume isn't cranked super loud.

 

[sullybosco]

I didn't use LOCs, but - it may be advisable. Same goes for using a similar device to restore trimmed low frequencies that the head unit cuts off at higher volumes (rewiring is necessary, as I understand - there's a thread on this subject)

As to researching the speakers - I settled on a certain price point and quality. Maybe there's a sweet spot at a lower pp, but I didn't feel that it was worth spending extra time to save a few bucks. Just my opinion, you can do better, I'm sure, especially if this is fun for you.

Oddly, now I have a bit of a hum out of the speakers, which means that the power wire is causing interference (likely). When the sound is on or in driving for BMW spares uk (I have a straight pipe), I don't hear it, naturally. Maybe I'll chase this sometime later...

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Running the amp output wires through the grommets by the hinges is the right move, even if it’s a bit of a pain. You’ll want to carefully open the rubber grommet between the door and the body, feed the new speaker wires through alongside the factory wiring, and take your time to avoid damaging anything. A stiff guide wire helps a lot. Once everything’s through, make sure to reseal the grommet properly to keep moisture out. It’s a tight fit, but it works, and it keeps everything looking clean and OEM.

 

[BadShot]

Running the amp output wires through the grommets by the hinges is the right move, even if it’s a bit of a pain. You’ll want to carefully open the rubber grommet between the door and the body, feed the new speaker wires through alongside the factory wiring, and take your time to avoid damaging anything. A stiff guide wire helps a lot. Once everything’s through, make sure to reseal the grommet properly to keep moisture out. It’s a tight fit, but it works, and it keeps everything looking clean and OEM.

I really hope the job is done by now. It’s been seven years.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

I really hope the job is done by now. It’s been seven years.