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Intermittent Stiff Steering (I'm going INSANE)

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#1
I've been having a strange issue with my steering for maybe close to 4 years now, and no one including myself can seem to figure out what it is. I've had gearhead friends look at it, Ford dealer mechanics/regular mechanics, ARA Rally professionals that drive and work on these cars, no one can figure it out. I've posted this to reddit multiple times, nothing. I've deep researched on CHATGPT multiple times, nothing. So you now have the pleasure of reading my 4 year late, over explanation of a problem with a solution that is probably right under my nose, or isn't? I don't know. Here we go:

The issue: So for the last 4ish years Ive been having this strange issue with my steering. It feels really sluggish and heavy, nothing like how light and snappy it normally feels. The kicker is, it's only... Sometimes...? Sometimes it feels normal, sometimes it feels like utter dung. Let me break down all of the ways in which it changes. Sometimes when I start my car it'll be stiff, sometimes it won't. Sometimes it'll immediately change upon the next start up (vice versa, or multiple startups in between). Sometimes it'll change stiffness mid drive. Sometimes it'll stay on a certain stiffness for days, even weeks, before changing back. It does it in the rain, it does it in the snow (although I do notice if I'm driving in a lot of snow, or a field of grass/dirt or something similar, it gets super light). It does it when it's dry. It does it when it's hot out and when it's cold out. I'm on my second set of tires since the stock set, and it's done it on both sets of tires minus the stock set.

My car info: Everything that could affect this is stock outside of the wheels. I have turbomacs, and I do know that they're heavier and thicker than the stock wheel, which might also be the issue. I don't have the luxury of putting on lighter wheels and going for a drive in my current life situation. I'm on my second set of tires from the stock potenzas, currently on the Firestone Firehawk tires, before were Generals. The alignment is good, the control arms are good (to my understanding) and all other suspension components seem to be good (at least to the understanding of the people that were able to see that in-depth on my car). I have been in two accidents but both of those were long after this issue has started.

Potential solutions?: There's only two times in which I can make it switch from heavy back to light. They are: SOMETIMES when I hit a decent bump in the road, and most of the time when I steer left and right rapidly (Alla warming up the tires in a race). Someone I dmed on reddit awhile ago suggested it might be a speed steering sensor issue? That's the only suggestion I've gotten that's different from the "norm" of alignment, control arms, etc, which to my understanding are all in good shape. There's always the heavier wheel situation, which coincidentally I this issue started (I think) around the time I got the new wheels, but definitely some point after them. However I can't say for sure because it's clearly been a bit, memory is foggy. Also if it is the wheels, why is it intermittent, wouldn't it just change the feel of my steering permanently (or untill the wheels came off)?

Final notes: I've also checked the power steering fuse, I've reset the PCSM module, and PCM Reset All Adaptations (I actually just did this maybe 20 minutes ago, didn't feel like anything changed too much, maybe a little, I don't know anymore). I've gotten more alignments then I probably ever need in a lifetime, this time trying a hair of toe in on the front wheels. Nothing, all of this has lead to nothing. I'm going to try to see if I can just buy a cheap pair of tires to throw on the stock wheels and try and throw them back on to see. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I don't know where else to go and who else to ask. This issue is genuinely driving me NUTS and makes the car far less enjoyable to drive. I just want my snappy bean back. I'm not going to lie either, I don't want to sell this car, and I've said that plenty of times and meant it. However, this, makes me want to sell it. I cannot stand this issue any longer. As if I even have the money to buy a new car. Again thanks in advance and thanks for reading my rambles.

Also sorry if this isnt in the right spot or whatever. I'm tired, frustrated, ready to give up and this is my first post, so apologies in advance.
 


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SteveS

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#2
I think you can dispense with the thought about tires and wheels being the cause. That would be a constant change if it were.

After reading your description it seems clear that the cause is something that makes the power steering assist come and go. The Fiesta ST has electric power steering, so your gremlin is somewhere in the electronics that control the power steering or in a wiring connection of the power steering system (including grounds).
 


Intuit

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#3
EPAS (Electronic Power Assist System) is rather complicated, communicating with multiple systems and computers in order to perform its function. If it detects a problem and reduces or eliminates the assist function, it will set diagnostic codes that you can read.

One of the aspects that became apparent when researching this system is, the level of assist is speed dependent. So it communicates with the ECU and will dynamically adjust the assist based on vehicle speed. It also seems to use sensor core information (accelerometer, gyroscope, magnetometer -- stability control) along with acceleration rate information to make sure that the vehicle stays straight.

I can 100% understand and relate when you say, "This issue is genuinely driving me NUTS and makes the car far less enjoyable to drive." In my case it is dangerous to drive it aggressively due to some unpredictability introduced by the fact that stability control, ABS, torque vectoring may use data from EPAS and vice-versa. It has been mostly parked since October (except some grocery runs) as I haven't yet gotten around to repairing the hit-and-run damage while parked; that created these issues. Mine is all-over the road with heavy acceleration as I'm having to constantly correct for EPAS inputs on-the-fly. This means I look like an impaired driver under moderate acceleration and drunk under heavy acceleration. Drive this car like a Grandma? That's like telling two newly weds that they have to keep their hands off each other.
 


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#4
Was the shop Broken Motorsports in West Berlin?

Did they use a Forscan on it to check for any codes, and/or reset the system?

How old and in what condition is the battery??

These cars are extremely sensitive to even slight power drops in battery strength, most especially the EPAS system.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #6
I think you can dispense with the thought about tires and wheels being the cause. That would be a constant change if it were.

After reading your description it seems clear that the cause is something that makes the power steering assist come and go. The Fiesta ST has electric power steering, so your gremlin is somewhere in the electronics that control the power steering or in a wiring connection of the power steering system (including grounds).
I'm inclined to agree due to the fact I've had multiple people with the same set up tell me there's is fine, and I've driven others with similar setups and it felt completely fine. I'm extraordinarily NOT mechanically knowledgeable, so not sure how and when or if I can check the connections and grounds, although I suppose I could find a shop that would or something. It's a solid suggestion though for the culprit.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #7
EPAS (Electronic Power Assist System) is rather complicated, communicating with multiple systems and computers in order to perform its function. If it detects a problem and reduces or eliminates the assist function, it will set diagnostic codes that you can read.

One of the aspects that became apparent when researching this system is, the level of assist is speed dependent. So it communicates with the ECU and will dynamically adjust the assist based on vehicle speed. It also seems to use sensor core information (accelerometer, gyroscope, magnetometer -- stability control) along with acceleration rate information to make sure that the vehicle stays straight.

I can 100% understand and relate when you say, "This issue is genuinely driving me NUTS and makes the car far less enjoyable to drive." In my case it is dangerous to drive it aggressively due to some unpredictability introduced by the fact that stability control, ABS, torque vectoring may use data from EPAS and vice-versa. It has been mostly parked since October (except some grocery runs) as I haven't yet gotten around to repairing the hit-and-run damage while parked; that created these issues. Mine is all-over the road with heavy acceleration as I'm having to constantly correct for EPAS inputs on-the-fly. This means I look like an impaired driver under moderate acceleration and drunk under heavy acceleration. Drive this car like a Grandma? That's like telling two newly weds that they have to keep their hands off each other.
I know, you're absolutely right, which is why this issue frustrates me to unhealthy levels. Not only on the surface level, are there so many different aspects that could mess with the steering, diving into the actual EPAS system is also the same thing. There's A LOT happening. There's so many avenues one could go down, it's maddening.

I'm sorry that you can even relate. This feeling is truly a scourge on the whole experience. Thankfully mine doesn't feel as unsafe, but I'd be lying to you if the way it felt now gave me immense confidence. Especially when it's fully flaring up, there's been times where I genuinely question the safety of things. Hopefully you can eventually fix stuff on your end because yeah.. I didn't buy this thing to grandma it 100% of the time, come on now...
 


OP
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Thread Starter #8
Was the shop Broken Motorsports in West Berlin?

Did they use a Forscan on it to check for any codes, and/or reset the system?

How old and in what condition is the battery??

These cars are extremely sensitive to even slight power drops in battery strength, most especially the EPAS system.
Huh, small world what the hell. Yes, I did, I actually worked for him very briefly at the time. Regardless, he couldn't diagnose anything unfortunately. He didn't use forscan though no, however I have definitely done that. I've scanned multiple times and almost every time there's no codes. SOMETIMES ill get the lost power or didn't get enough power, whatever, code for the EPAS module, so... I mean that would make the electric issue more of a possibility? Although I did ask a shop recently and the guy said that's just normal from time to time. I however, don't trust anyone. I've also went in there and rest the module, and did the PCM Reset All Adaptations. Resetting the module made it feel normal for about a day (that or it was placebo) and the PCM thing did nothing.

Uh... Man I hate to sound forgetful but I can't remember. I know it's not that old and I've gotten tests to make sure everything is fine and there's been no issue. I also know that I've changed the battery ONCE during this issue, and I remember it ultimately did nothing (again maybe it felt good for like a day if it wasn't placebo, but that's it)

I don't doubt it at all. I'd love to be able to tell for sure, and ultimately replace it if that's the case but as stated above, I'm mechanically inept and also not made of money so... yeah lol.
 


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Thread Starter #9

Intuit

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#10
The hit and run van/truck driver hit and rolled-up on the back of my front passenger wheel, even blowing out the sidewall.

The thing felt like it was driving on the sidewall before I took it to get "aligned".
Shop told me "our Minicooper guy drove it and was impressed" like it was golden.
Not even a minute of twirling around the parking lot, I knew it wasn't.
Left-right handling is different; as if the camber is different; off.
1753227029219.gif
Of course their machines only measure all of this with the wheels being straight.
Their machines won't tell them if things fall out-of-spec as the wheels are turned or/and the suspension loading is changed.
If I crank the steering wheel clockwise, the tire touches the inner-fender.
Counter-clockwise, nothing touches.

If I jack the front-end up in the air and move each front wheel, there is a metric ass-ton of play in the steering rack. The wheel moves, but the steering wheel does not.

After replacing my steering rack, will have a body shop check the bodywork for alignment issues that the alignment shop(s) are incapable of handling.
 


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#11
The hit and run van/truck driver hit and rolled-up on the back of my front passenger wheel, even blowing out the sidewall.

The thing felt like it was driving on the sidewall before I took it to get "aligned".
Shop told me "our Minicooper guy drove it and was impressed" like it was golden.
Not even a minute of twirling around the parking lot, I knew it wasn't.
Left-right handling is different; as if the camber is different; off.
View attachment 67211
Of course their machines only measure all of this with the wheels being straight.
Their machines won't tell them if things fall out-of-spec as the wheels are turned or/and the suspension loading is changed.
If I crank the steering wheel clockwise, the tire touches the inner-fender.
Counter-clockwise, nothing touches.

If I jack the front-end up in the air and move each front wheel, there is a metric ass-ton of play in the steering rack. The wheel moves, but the steering wheel does not.

After replacing my steering rack, will have a body shop check the bodywork for alignment issues that the alignment shop(s) are incapable of handling.
Caveat - an alignment rack won’t tell you if toe is changing as you steer the wheels, but caster is actually a measurement derived from the camber change as the wheels turn. So a funky camber behavior as the wheels turn will show up as uneven or out of spec caster angle.

That all said, if there’s obviously a lot of play in your steering rack, and the alignment shop isn’t noticing it, you need to find a new shop. But do double check that the steering wheel is actually locked in place when doing that test

Post damage alignment will never be 100% right, but bent control arms or a shift in the subframe can do strange things
 


Intuit

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#12
@Dialcaliper - Thanks for the review. (don't mean to hijack his thread - mentioned as additional things to check for) Not sure the steering wheel is even capable of locking anymore as it would've been locked at the time of impact and the wheels forced hard-over. Suspect some part of the steering column assembly is tweaked as well as there is squeaking as the EPAS motor acts on the column and the squeak pattern signifies a tweaked-bent shaft or something. I'm just taking it one thing at a time. (the EPAS components including column assemblies BTW have very limited availability)

https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/feisty-the-family-car.30825/page-9#post-520917
No endorsement offered - I don't forscan.....yet, because this seems oddly familiar.
@Sam4 - Didn't I read somewhere that someone mentioned possibly turning off the drift pull corrections entirely? That may let @DeRezz find some measure of peace.
 


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#13
@Dialcaliper - Thanks for the review. (don't mean to hijack his thread - mentioned as additional things to check for) Not sure the steering wheel is even capable of locking anymore as it would've been locked at the time of impact and the wheels forced hard-over. Suspect some part of the steering column assembly is tweaked as well as there is squeaking as the EPAS motor acts on the column and the squeak pattern signifies a tweaked-bent shaft or something. I'm just taking it one thing at a time. (the EPAS components including column assemblies BTW have very limited availability)


@Sam4 - Didn't I read somewhere that someone mentioned possibly turning off the drift pull corrections entirely? That may let @DeRezz find some measure of peace.
I started looking into this (turning drift pull off completely) but it’s apparently in reference to the Focus (on the FoST & FoRS) where they’ve identified the setting and other Ford vehicles that don’t use centralized configuration. It may have also been possible in a similar way on the Mk7 (2013 and earlier) Fiesta that was not centralized

example: https://www.focusst.org/threads/how...ose-who-autox-road-race-and-have-lsds.168999/

On the Fiesta, the PASM has exactly one line available in Forscan in the configuration files. But unfortunately it’s hard to tell what if anything to set it to, and if changing it in the PASM will actually do anything since everything in the Fiesta gets tied to Central Configuration in the BCM

Forscan also doesn’t show all the address blocks, just the ones they’ve identified as likely to change something when changed, so there’s no guarantee the correct As-built address is even available. It might however be possible to do using Ford IDS/VCM dealer software
 


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OP
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Thread Starter #14
@Dialcaliper - Thanks for the review. (don't mean to hijack his thread - mentioned as additional things to check for) Not sure the steering wheel is even capable of locking anymore as it would've been locked at the time of impact and the wheels forced hard-over. Suspect some part of the steering column assembly is tweaked as well as there is squeaking as the EPAS motor acts on the column and the squeak pattern signifies a tweaked-bent shaft or something. I'm just taking it one thing at a time. (the EPAS components including column assemblies BTW have very limited availability)


@Sam4 - Didn't I read somewhere that someone mentioned possibly turning off the drift pull corrections entirely? That may let @DeRezz find some measure of peace.
Oh no you're fine man, and I appreciate the insight into your issue because yes it does give me more things to look at. Such a shitty accident that sucks. I really hope you can get it back as close as possible to normal.

Funnily enough, the current alignment I have now (a touch bit of toe in) definitely exacerbates the issue, or rather, only when it's flaring up. With this new spec, when the steering is normal it feels totally fine, maybe even slightly better than I remember, but when it flares up and gets heavy, it feels even worse than if there was no toe at all. Also of course just like every other time I get an alignment, the wheel is a couple degrees off center to go straight. Every single time... That doesn't really add anything, just needed to vent lol.

I started looking into this (turning drift pull off completely) but it’s apparently in reference to the Focus (on the FoST & FoRS) where they’ve identified the setting and other Ford vehicles that don’t use centralized configuration. It may have also been possible in a similar way on the Mk7 (2013 and earlier) Fiesta that was not centralized

example: https://www.focusst.org/threads/how...ose-who-autox-road-race-and-have-lsds.168999/

On the Fiesta, the PASM has exactly one line available in Forscan in the configuration files. But unfortunately it’s hard to tell what if anything to set it to, and if changing it in the PASM will actually do anything since everything in the Fiesta gets tied to Central Configuration in the BCM

Forscan also doesn’t show all the address blocks, just the ones they’ve identified as likely to change something when changed, so there’s no guarantee the correct As-built address is even available. It might however be possible to do using Ford IDS/VCM dealer software
Yeep, it was your thread posted above that made me learn about the existence of the PDC, and attempt to try and shut it off. All of the symptoms of the PDC not working seem to at least somewhat mirror my personal hell, but just like you said and how I eventually found out, there really isn't a surefire way to turn it off it seems. Sure I can probably mess with values or other as built profiles or whatever, but I'm far too uneducated to be messing around with that shit, and I'd prefer not to have to spend the little money I do have unscrewing my mistakes.

I would assume and hope that the dealer software has to have that functionality, and I suppose it couldn't hurt to ask a dealer if they could reset or turn it off, although I do feel like I'll be met with a lot of no's
 


SteveS

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If your steering wheel isn't straight you need to get that fixed when you have it aligned. The steering rack isn't centered. (or the wheel was put on the splines wrong)
 


OP
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Thread Starter #16
If your steering wheel isn't straight you need to get that fixed when you have it aligned. The steering rack isn't centered. (or the wheel was put on the splines wrong)
Yeah, I already took it back to the shop that did it for them to fix it, I'm relatively certain they did nothing because it's exactly in the same spot, not even a degree or two of difference. So, I'll either attempt to make the adjustment myself or rather just take it to get it aligned somewhere else once again, and emphasize to make certain the wheel is straight, since this happens every time save maybe one alignment. This isn't causing my actual issue, this is something entirely different, but still annoying
 




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