I thought I would put in my issues / things changing the timing belt for anybody who is considering doing it themselves - I am by no means a mechanic but I have been working on my own cars now doing most mechanical work for the last 5 years so I have a somewhat general idea of how to do things. I hit 10 years and 150k miles so the belt was needing to be done -overall the condition of the belt was fine but still I would prefer to avoid any issues -
The good:
- It wasn't nearly as complicated as some of the other posts have made it sound - I definitely took my time and wasn't in any rush to get the car back on the road -
- I didn't have any issues removing anything or putting anything back on -
- After I put everything back on I didn't have any codes
Insights:
- You do have to remove the passenger CV axle in order to access the timing bolt on the side of the block - It wasn't so much a deal for me since I was planning on changing the axle seals anyway since mine were leaking -
- I would highly recommend getting the flywheel locking tool - from my understanding these are interference engines and I wouldn't want to mess around with the crank moving at all and causing catastrophic head and piston damage -
- Highly recommend changing your water pump and timing belt tensioner while you are in there as well -
- I cleaned my intake valves while I had the manifold off, they weren't too bad but I did notice that I had less stuttering at WOT after doing it -
- The torque on the crankshaft bolt was intense but not as bad as some people made it out to be - I had the car pretty high up on my 6 ton jack stands so I was able to get a cheater bar in for the last 90 and 15 degree adjustments.
The bad:
- I would plan on the harmonic balancer being stuck on there - I had to modify a 2 arm puller since there is pretty limited room to get a 3 arm puller in there -
Hope this helps anybody else looking to safe 1000$K which is what I was quoted from my local shop.
Cheers
The good:
- It wasn't nearly as complicated as some of the other posts have made it sound - I definitely took my time and wasn't in any rush to get the car back on the road -
- I didn't have any issues removing anything or putting anything back on -
- After I put everything back on I didn't have any codes
Insights:
- You do have to remove the passenger CV axle in order to access the timing bolt on the side of the block - It wasn't so much a deal for me since I was planning on changing the axle seals anyway since mine were leaking -
- I would highly recommend getting the flywheel locking tool - from my understanding these are interference engines and I wouldn't want to mess around with the crank moving at all and causing catastrophic head and piston damage -
- Highly recommend changing your water pump and timing belt tensioner while you are in there as well -
- I cleaned my intake valves while I had the manifold off, they weren't too bad but I did notice that I had less stuttering at WOT after doing it -
- The torque on the crankshaft bolt was intense but not as bad as some people made it out to be - I had the car pretty high up on my 6 ton jack stands so I was able to get a cheater bar in for the last 90 and 15 degree adjustments.
The bad:
- I would plan on the harmonic balancer being stuck on there - I had to modify a 2 arm puller since there is pretty limited room to get a 3 arm puller in there -
Hope this helps anybody else looking to safe 1000$K which is what I was quoted from my local shop.
Cheers
