Weird dealership experience

Cneu

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#1
Hey y'all,

I have a quick question. I had a dealership do my timing belt and clutch/flywheel in one shot. They wound up having to replace the clutch slave 3 times because of leaks. They eventually ordered and installed a whole new clutch kit because they thought something might be wrong with the first clutch kit? So, they went thru 1 clutch kit initially, then 2 slaves, then installed a whole new clutch kit with slave.

Side story but they wound up taking 8 days to do a 14 hour job, lol. They were pretty horrible to deal with and failed to update me many times about my car, so I think the dealership is pretty shady and is doing shady shit here. They also have a very bad reputation for stuff like this, so..yeah. My bad going there.

When i got in the car to drive it away, the clutch feels...bad? 90% or more of the pedal is soft. When I say soft I mean empty, like there isn't much pressure or the clutch springs are very soft. the only usable portion of the throw is maybe a half inch or so near the top. This clutch feels significantly different. It works, to be clear, it just doesn't engage until the very top and it's very fast with little entry/exit. It just grabs. I've driven a lot of manuals, big and smalls, and this feels very, very weak. The clutch itself does grip well and I can get solid tire chirp.

All parts previously and what are on there now are OEM. Flywheel, clutch, slave, were OEM and should be OEM. So they should feel similar.

I had another mechanic drive it and his thought was "It works, but it feels like a honda fit clutch, or another economy car. Not what I'd expect on an ST." Did they install the wrong clutch? Can they even do that? Like is it possible they installed a non-st fiesta clutch on it?

What do you all think happened here? I've never been in the clutch/flywheel of these cars so I'm not familiar enough here. I'm having another mechanic do a work check on it next week. Could they maybe not have broken it in very well? I don't think break in would change pedal pressure. It looks like these slaves are crap. Is it possible they killed 3 slaves or is this just some weird fiesta st issue? The whole thing seems real weird to me.
 


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Sam4

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#2
I chose to use ('have installed by shop") a single mass flywheel and corresponding clutch set up, when replacing my trans. It completely changed the pedal feel, but overall, its strong as a horse 25-30K miles later (143K on the clock). Hill starts can be exciting... If you can find out about the components that were used, beyond 'oem', it may be useful. I have never asked what the difference in the 2 set ups* is - Dual Mass vs Single Mass, but this would seem to be it.
 


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Cneu

Cneu

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Thread Starter #4
sounds like the didnt bleed it properly.
Something like that. My idea is they kept blowing them out while bleeding them, then on the final one they barely bled it or did anything in the hopes it would work long enough to get me off the lot.
 


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rallytaff

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#6
I trust my local dealership 100%. They have never let me down or screwed with me. I went to them because the previous dealership screwed us over when we bought my wife's SE! Detroit were not in the least bit interested in complaints about them!
 


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Cneu

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Thread Starter #7
Alright I'll figure out bleeding it, or have a shop do it real quick.

Just curious, if a dealership agreed to have work done wed to fri, didn't start work until thursday, then had repeated parts failures without updating you, blowing past the deadline by 6 days. Would you expect some form of a discount? Or at least something to say they were sorry and acknowledge some form of responsibility? My issue is that on thursday, 16 business hours left in the week to do a 14 hour job, they took my car apart without calling me to ask me if I needed it over the weekend. From the beginning I made it very clear I needed my car back on friday. At one point the shop manager said he would never call a customer for this because he trusts his tech to get the job done. They did give me a "free rental" but I can't use it for what I needed over the weekend, so it did affect me quite a lot, plus several other people(volunteers). The only "apology" I got from them was the shop manager saying, "I'm sorry you're upset that we gave you a free rental", which....yeah. I spent $4500 on maintenance(timing belt, clutch/flywheel). They also "as a courtesy" repaired a leaky seal without authorization from me. All throughout this process I had to text/call to get updates about my car as their deadlines kept passing. I've been a technician before, I understand that stuff goes awry. I made it very clear to them my issue is the lack of communication and courtesy to update me. Is a discount really that big of a deal here? They had my car for 9 days on a 14 hour job and I wound up with a weak clutch. I also now have to waste quite a lot of time to have another shop check their work because it's 2 hours of driving to get to the next dealership, plus $220, because I can't really trust them at this point. I really don't feel like some kind of discount here is out of the question, but maybe I'm being a bit ridiculous? I don't know.
 


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#8
Should they? Yes.

Will they? In short, no. Many of them have zero shame in this regard, as they dont really know what is going on in their shop. Example - I caught my local dealership red handed, paid for work (they didnt actually do) then at the next service urgently calling me about this issue that needed resolved ASAP. Thing got interesting when I showed up with the receipt for having paid for it at the prior service.... Then found they had done stuff on 2 of my other cars wrong/didnt do it that week either. I was even promised a discount and a credit, which magically was forgotten about 2 days later.

One option is to take it up with Ford help line, see if they can pressure the dealership. I would push for a longer warranty period on the work and materials, as it seems whoever worked on your car didnt have the first idea what they were doing.

Find somewhere else is the only real answer for the long term.
 


SteveS

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#9
If it's a Ford dealership you will get a survey to rate their service department. If you don't give them perfect scores you will get a call trying to convince you to change your rating, but if you explain what happened and what your gripe is, that is where you can get some recompense. When our FiST was still under warranty I was having the dealer do the oil changes. Once, I had just mounted my snow tires and so I asked them not to rotate the tires, which is part of the oil change service. When I came to pick it up it was clear that the tires had been rotated. I went home and rotated them back. When I got the survey I graded them down. When they called and I explained why they gave me a year of free oil changes.
 


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If it's a Ford dealership you will get a survey to rate their service department. If you don't give them perfect scores you will get a call trying to convince you to change your rating, but if you explain what happened and what your gripe is, that is where you can get some recompense. When our FiST was still under warranty I was having the dealer do the oil changes. Once, I had just mounted my snow tires and so I asked them not to rotate the tires, which is part of the oil change service. When I came to pick it up it was clear that the tires had been rotated. I went home and rotated them back. When I got the survey I graded them down. When they called and I explained why they gave me a year of free oil changes.
Not worth it. I wouldn't trust them to do anything correctly.
 


dhminer

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#11
I would call and ask to speak to the service manager and politely explain the situation. If he’s anything less than appalled and apologetic, they don’t touch my car again. In your shoes, I would spend $100 on a motive pressure bleeder and bleed the clutch yourself opposed to $220 and hours of driving. It’s really simple and you can do the brakes too in the future. PM me if you want my cell number and I’ll gladly walk you through it on the phone or FaceTime.
 


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Cneu

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Thread Starter #12
I would call and ask to speak to the service manager and politely explain the situation. If he’s anything less than appalled and apologetic, they don’t touch my car again. In your shoes, I would spend $100 on a motive pressure bleeder and bleed the clutch yourself opposed to $220 and hours of driving. It’s really simple and you can do the brakes too in the future. PM me if you want my cell number and I’ll gladly walk you through it on the phone or FaceTime.
I already spoke to the service manager. At one point I asked him to acknowledge that they could have communicated better and that a rental car is not sufficient. He replied, "Here's your apology. I'm sorry that you're upset we gave you a free rental car." He also acknowledged that they have a bad reputation, but he said he "Likes to think those days are gone since he started". While I was talking to the service manager he was sitting there with his arms crossed, smirking at me, which is body language for "get out of here".

It was funny though. When I was picking up my rental car the gal who was helping me out said, "What'd they do to you?" with a smile, which tells me they do this pretty often.

So, i seriously doubt anyone at that dealership will do anything to make this better. They're really digging their heels in. I'm already doing a partial chargeback(i had them charge parts and labor separate) and have spoken with a local attorney. This dealership has a history of settling out of court once someone lawyers up, but they make people sign NDAs. Doesn't stop folks from talking though. All I was asking for was an acknowledgement and a small discount to show that they understand that this was a very sub-par experience.

Also no, I can't bleed this myself. I need documentation on all of this. I'm sending them invoices on the mechanic checking their work, the cylinder bleeding, etc because I'm pretty sure I'll need it. If I do it myself they can just say I'm lying.
 


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rallytaff

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#13
Years ago, when I had my first Focus, not long after they came out, I was working as a courier/messenger. I believe I had a recall for the rear wheel bearings, so took the car in to get it fixed. One day, I had a pick up in Santa Barbara to be delivered in San Diego. Just after making the delivery, I heard a noise from the rear end. I ended up calling a tow truck to get it to a local Ford dealer. They told me that the rear wheel bearing were shot. I informed them that they had been replaced. They disagreed. I then had to rent a car to return to LA. I picked up my car a few days later. I then wrote a 'nice' letter to the original Ford dealer outlining my expenses for their screw up and LIES! I later got a cheque for $712. I think they were happy to pay up rather than see me in Court! Needless to say, the dealership went out of business, can't think why!
 


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Cneu

Cneu

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Thread Starter #14
Years ago, when I had my first Focus, not long after they came out, I was working as a courier/messenger. I believe I had a recall for the rear wheel bearings, so took the car in to get it fixed. One day, I had a pick up in Santa Barbara to be delivered in San Diego. Just after making the delivery, I heard a noise from the rear end. I ended up calling a tow truck to get it to a local Ford dealer. They told me that the rear wheel bearing were shot. I informed them that they had been replaced. They disagreed. I then had to rent a car to return to LA. I picked up my car a few days later. I then wrote a 'nice' letter to the original Ford dealer outlining my expenses for their screw up and LIES! I later got a cheque for $712. I think they were happy to pay up rather than see me in Court! Needless to say, the dealership went out of business, can't think why!

Yeah I wound up doing a charge back on the labor portion of the bill. I have no problem paying for the timing belt job and the clutch/flywheel parts, but their labor seems to have been off. 3 attempts to get a new clutch/flywheel/slave in, then it wasn't even properly bled when the customer received it. This is after taking 8 days on a 3 day job, which they didn't start for a day.

I'll send them bills for the work check and the slave bleed, then see if they want to talk about compensating me for wasting a ton of my time and not doing the job correctly. I'm not trying to screw them, but I don't feel like they lived up to their portion of the agreement and they're just stonewalling me cuz they know they screwed up.
 


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dhminer

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Yeah I wound up doing a charge back on the labor portion of the bill. I have no problem paying for the timing belt job and the clutch/flywheel parts, but their labor seems to have been off. 3 attempts to get a new clutch/flywheel/slave in, then it wasn't even properly bled when the customer received it. This is after taking 8 days on a 3 day job, which they didn't start for a day.

I'll send them bills for the work check and the slave bleed, then see if they want to talk about compensating me for wasting a ton of my time and not doing the job correctly. I'm not trying to screw them, but I don't feel like they lived up to their portion of the agreement and they're just stonewalling me cuz they know they screwed up.
True, good call not doing it yourself.

Here’s what the almighty LLM says with my extremely basic but spiteful prompt. Consider this your profanity warning before reading further.

Prompt: I got bad work from a ford dealership in Oregon. They totally fucked up the job, did work that I didn’t request, and do not seem willing to fix it. They’re being huge assholes about it so I want to metaphorically fuck them in the ass as hard as I can, no lube. What sort of penalties can they be assessed and how much of the $4,000 bill can I expect to recoup if I pursue legal action?

Answer:
You have strong grounds under Oregon law to push back hard on this Ford dealership for unauthorized repairs, substandard (“fucked up”) work, and refusal to fix it. Oregon has specific consumer protections for vehicle repairs that directly apply here, plus the broader Unlawful Trade Practices Act (UTPA). A dealership service department qualifies as a “vehicle repair shop” under these rules.

Key Oregon Laws They Likely Violated

The main law is from 2009 (codified in ORS 646A.480–646A.495):

• They must give you a written estimate before starting work (detailing tasks, parts, labor, and total cost).

• For any work (or changes) expected to cost over $200, they need your separate authorization (signed, phone note with details, email/fax, etc.). They can’t just do extra stuff you didn’t approve.

• They cannot charge you for work not actually performed.

• They can’t swap in used/reconditioned parts if the estimate said new, without disclosing it.

• Deviations from the estimate that increase cost by more than 10% or $200 require new approval.

Violating any of this is automatically an unlawful trade practice under ORS 646.608(1)(LLL).

The UTPA (ORS 646.605–646.656) also covers broader issues like failing to deliver services as promised, deceptive practices, or unconscionable tactics.

If the work was botched (negligent repairs), you also have common-law claims for breach of contract (they implied they’d do competent work) and negligence (poor workmanship causing damage or requiring redo).

What Penalties Can They Face?

• From you (private lawsuit): No direct “fine” paid to the state, but actual damages (your $4,000 + cost of any further repairs to undo their mess + towing/rental/loss of use + any other out-of-pocket losses). Since it’s a willful violation of the repair shop rules, you can seek punitive damages (to punish them) if a judge/jury agrees their conduct was egregious. The court can also order equitable relief (e.g., full rescission/refund).

• Attorney fees: If you win under UTPA, they pay your reasonable attorney fees and costs (trial and appeal). This is a huge lever — many consumer lawyers will take these cases on contingency or low upfront because of it.

• From the state (if DOJ gets involved): The Oregon Department of Justice (DOJ) Consumer Protection Division or a district attorney can investigate and sue for an injunction to stop the practices. If the dealership violates that injunction later, they face civil penalties (forfeited to the state). The AG can also seek restitution for affected consumers. Repeated violations could trigger dealer licensing scrutiny under ORS Chapter 822 (vehicle dealers).

Realistically, the biggest “fuck you” comes from your lawsuit forcing them to pay you back + extra, plus legal fees that make their insurance or corporate office notice. Dealerships hate UTPA claims and bad publicity.

How Much of the $4,000 Can You Expect to Recoup?

It depends on evidence, but with solid proof (invoices showing unauthorized work, independent mechanic report on the fuckup + fix cost, emails/texts where they refuse to make it right), you can realistically get most or all of it back — often 80–100% + extras:

• Full refund of the $4,000 if the work was unauthorized or so bad it’s worthless (rescission).

• Plus whatever it costs a competent shop to diagnose/fix their errors.

• Plus incidentals (rental car, towing, time off work if provable).

• Possible punitive bump in court if they’re being total assholes about it.

In practice, these cases often settle for full refund + some extra once you file suit and they realize fees/punitives are on the table. Small claims judges are consumer-friendly on clear repair rip-offs.

Statute of limitations: 1 year from when you discovered the violation (so act fast).

How to Metaphorically Fuck Them (Legal Roadmap)

1. Gather ammo (do this now):

• All paperwork: estimate (or lack thereof), invoice, authorization records, photos/videos of the car before/after, communications refusing to fix.
• Get a second opinion from an independent shop (preferably ASE-certified) with a written report: “This work was not authorized / performed incorrectly / caused X damage / will cost $Y to correct.”
• Document all your extra costs.

2. Free/low-effort pressure:

• File a complaint with Oregon DOJ Consumer Protection (online form or 1-877-877-9392): https://www.doj.state.or.us/consumer-protection/. They mediate repair disputes and can open a UTPA investigation. Mention the specific ORS violations. This often lights a fire under dealerships.

• Escalate to Ford Motor Company corporate customer service (google “Ford Customer Relationship Center” or use their app/site). Dealers are franchises; Ford hates complaints that could affect their CSI scores or warranty audits. Demand they intervene and make the dealer fix it at no cost or refund you.

• Send a formal demand letter (certified mail + email) to the dealership owner/general manager and service manager. Cite the exact laws violated, attach evidence, demand full refund + your fix costs within 10–14 days, or you’ll sue under UTPA + seek fees/punitives. Templates are easy to find online or via legal aid.

3. Legal action (the ass-fucking part):
• Small claims court (easiest/cheapest for $4k): Limit is $10,000. File in the county where the dealership is or where you live (check local justice court). Filing fee ~$37–$100. No lawyers allowed (informal hearing). You can get actual damages + possibly punitives/equitable relief. Many people win full refunds here on bad auto repairs. Do-it-yourself forms at oregon courts website.

• Circuit/civil court (to go nuclear): For full UTPA remedies including attorney fees and stronger punitive potential. Claims over $750 can go here. Hire a consumer protection attorney (Oregon State Bar referral: 503-684-3763 or 1-800-452-7636). Fee-shifting makes it viable — many work on contingency. This is where you can really make it expensive for them.

Realistic timeline/outcome: DOJ complaint + demand letter often gets movement in weeks. Lawsuit (small claims) resolves in 1–3 months. Expect 70–100% recovery if your evidence is clear; dealerships fold when lawyers/DOJ get involved because losing means paying your fees too.

Pro tips:

• Don’t pay the bill if you haven’t already (or dispute it in writing if partial).

• If they have your car or a lien, act fast — but the unauthorized work weakens their lien claim.

• Keep everything professional in writing; their “asshole” behavior helps prove willfulness for punitives/fees.

• Free help: Oregon DOJ, Legal Aid (if low-income), or consumer law attorneys (search “Oregon consumer protection attorney auto repair”).
 


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