2014 Fiesta ST Oil Change Tutorial

[BagOfArms]

This is actually my first post on this forum, but I've been lurking here for a few weeks. I did my first oil change at about 5,000 miles last week, and I figured I would write up a tutorial to share my procedure with the community. Check it out:

Change The Oil on a 2014 Ford Fiesta ST

Let me know if you have any feedback. Hope it helps!

 

[FocusMike]

Great tutorial, thank you.

 

[rodmoe]

Nice Job And Welcome

 

[Kurcha]

Great tutorial... I do have a question, what is the "recommended torque" to install the adapter and valve? I looked at a couple of videos after your article and they keep mentioning it.


One more question? Would this fit as an adapter?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HTV2IFI/ref=gno_cart_title_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Thanks!

This is actually my first post on this forum, but I've been lurking here for a few weeks. I did my first oil change at about 5,000 miles last week, and I figured I would write up a tutorial to share my procedure with the community. Check it out:

Change The Oil on a 2014 Ford Fiesta ST

Let me know if you have any feedback. Hope it helps!

 

[me32]

Great write up. Thanks for sharing an welcome

 

[JPGC]

Very nice tutorial! Welcome!

 

[BagOfArms]

Great tutorial... I do have a question, what is the "recommended torque" to install the adapter and valve? I looked at a couple of videos after your article and they keep mentioning it.


One more question? Would this fit as an adapter?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HTV2IFI/ref=gno_cart_title_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Thanks!

Unfortunately, I couldn't find the recommended torque for the oil filter or drain plug. Maybe it's in the shop manual, but I don't have access to it. I just tightened it down until it felt right, then made sure to check for leaks the next morning and a few days after.

That adapter would probably work, but i'm worried about it being long enough for you to adequately tighten down the valve. Since this is something you should only need to buy once, you might as well get the Fumoto valve and official adapter. You can't get the adapter with Amazon Prime, so I just ordered both at the same time off of the Qwik Valve website (distributors of Fumoto valves in the USA).

 

[rooSTer]

+rep for a great howto.

 

[Kurcha]

Great, thanks!

Unfortunately, I couldn't find the recommended torque for the oil filter or drain plug. Maybe it's in the shop manual, but I don't have access to it. I just tightened it down until it felt right, then made sure to check for leaks the next morning and a few days after.

That adapter would probably work, but i'm worried about it being long enough for you to adequately tighten down the valve. Since this is something you should only need to buy once, you might as well get the Fumoto valve and official adapter. You can't get the adapter with Amazon Prime, so I just ordered both at the same time off of the Qwik Valve website (distributors of Fumoto valves in the USA).

 

[Kurcha]

Just found this:

"If anyone's interested, the proper torque is 25-29 lb-ft. The US website does not list this information, but the Australian site does. "

 

[BagOfArms]

Just found this:

"If anyone's interested, the proper torque is 25-29 lb-ft. The US website does not list this information, but the Australian site does. "

Thanks for finding that! I'll add it to the tutorial.

 

[Ronbo]

Very thorough tutorial, but I question the step of tightening the new filter using a filter cap wrench. Tightening the filter by hand is sufficient, and using the wrench may make the filter very difficult to remove next time.

 

[BagOfArms]

Very thorough tutorial, but I question the step of tightening the new filter using a filter cap wrench. Tightening the filter by hand is sufficient, and using the wrench may make the filter very difficult to remove next time.

That's definitely a valid concern. In my case, i was having a lot of trouble tightening the filter at all because the filter and my hands were covered in oil. So, I used the filter cap wrench, but I was very careful to not tighten it too much.

 

[wythe4]

Nice tutorial. I just changed my oil for the first time at 6000 miles. I have a 2016 and the dipstick is very tricky to read -- One side seems to get completely coated in oil while the other side is only partially (so I've been going with that side).

Any tips for changing your oil? I wonder why they put the filter up behind those hoses? Also, anyone know what the little metal housing is that the filter attaches to? It gets loose when you remove the filter and then tighter as you tighten on a new filter. I've only done oil changes on 3 cars I've had but this is the messiest because of the filter location.

 

[BagOfArms]

The dipstick is difficult to read on the 2014, too. I've changed the oil a few more times on the car by now, so i should update the tutorial. After draining the car and replacing the oil filter, my procedure is: Pour about 3.5 quarts into the car (a little less if you want to be safe), wait a few minutes for the oil to settle, pull the dipstick out and wipe it off, then re-insert the dipstick and check it again.

Eventually you just get used to the crappy dipstick, but the procedure above helps.

Oh, and the metal housing that the filter attaches to is the oil cooler. The hoses that go into it carry coolant in and out, cooling the oil as it passes into and out of the filter.

 

[wythe4]

The dipstick is difficult to read on the 2014, too. I've changed the oil a few more times on the car by now, so i should update the tutorial. After draining the car and replacing the oil filter, my procedure is: Pour about 3.5 quarts into the car (a little less if you want to be safe), wait a few minutes for the oil to settle, pull the dipstick out and wipe it off, then re-insert the dipstick and check it again.

Eventually you just get used to the crappy dipstick, but the procedure above helps.

Oh, and the metal housing that the filter attaches to is the oil cooler. The hoses that go into it carry coolant in and out, cooling the oil as it passes into and out of the filter.

Thanks for the tips. OK, so I have another question: when I unscrewed the oil filter the oil cooler also becomes a little loose and oil leaks between the cooler and where the cooler attaches to the block/or oil pan. Tightening the new filter on also tightens the cooler back in. No leaks afterward all is said and done. Is it normal for the cooler to loosen then the filter is off?

 

[BagOfArms]

Thanks for the tips. OK, so I have another question: when I unscrewed the oil filter the oil cooler also becomes a little loose and oil leaks between the cooler and where the cooler attaches to the block/or oil pan. Tightening the new filter on also tightens the cooler back in. No leaks afterward all is said and done. Is it normal for the cooler to loosen then the filter is off?

I've never had that happen. If I were you, I would take it to the dealer to get it checked out. From what i've heard, it's really difficult to get the oil cooler off, so something must be wrong if it's coming off just from removing the oil filter.

 

[wythe4]

I've never had that happen. If I were you, I would take it to the dealer to get it checked out. From what i've heard, it's really difficult to get the oil cooler off, so something must be wrong if it's coming off just from removing the oil filter.

Just checked with the service center at the dealer. This is normal. There's an o-ring connecting the oil cooler to the block/pan and the oil cooler is tightened through the oil filter. Just makes for more of a mess than it should...

 

[maverick1]

Do you need to use Ford engine oil or can you use any high quality 5w-20 fully synthetic engine oil??

 

[wythe4]

Any full synthetic oil of the proper weight should be fine. I think the manual even says that a synthetic blend is fine.