Oil catch can/Separator

D1JL · Feb 27, 2015

I am running very similar plumbing as BoostBumps'.
I too do NOT have a check valve and have never had a problem.
I have even purposely left the clamps off the can fittings and they have never come loose.

Dave

MOFiST · Feb 27, 2015

I know Dave. Same plumbing. I'm paranoid and we run high boost as you know. My can is quality and has a welded top. I'm just thinking long term here. Lol

MOFiST · Feb 27, 2015

D1JL said:

How much have you been catching in your can btw?

BoostBumps · Feb 27, 2015

Boomba Check Valved Installed Today

There are 2 primary reasons as to why I've decided to also install a check valve between the Intake Manifold (IM) and OCC ...

1) I wanted to eliminate any possibility of having the OCC pressurized during high boost conditions (particularly important when the can begins to fillup with blow-by oil residue and sludge)...Installing a check valve will prevent oil that has accumulated in the OCC from "percolating" and splashing about during high turbulent conditions within the can occurring during quick boost spooling which can create quite a mess internally by stirring up the heavier "sludge" that has already collected on the bottom of the can...This is done as a preventive measure as I don't want to chance having any sludge residue that the OCC has collected getting all over and gunking up the internal upper mesh filter and then having it pushed back towards the PCV...

2) Installing a check valve between OCC outlet port and IM (located closer to intake manifold port) essentially will block or cap off the IM port during boost conditions...There is no advantage in having high boost pressure directed towards and filling up an empty canister or chamber (OCC) from the IM during boost spool-up and also no need to pressurize more volume than is needed in the intake manifold.

Also (as a side note) I always make sure that all vacuum, boost, and breather lines are clamped...

Boomba Check Valve:

http://www.boombaracing.com/check-valve-12-mm-1-2/

[HR][/HR]
Ventilation System Mods Completed (2/27/2015)

CFM Baffled Breather Cap:

http://www.c-f-m.com/performancepar...reather-Kit-for-2014-15-Fiesta-ST-49p5173.htm

JLT Oil Separator:

http://jlttruecoldair.com/ZenCart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=441&products_id=655

Boomba 1/2" Check Valve:

http://www.boombaracing.com/check-valve-12-mm-1-2/

JLT OCC - Boomba CV - CFM Breather Cap.jpg

D1JL · Feb 27, 2015

MOFiST said:

I just checked my can.
It was difficult to see back there so I had to use a mirror and a flashlight.
It aperies to be about 1/3 full.

It has been about 8 months now so I think I will wait another 4 months before I empty it.

Unless it gets too hard to walk. [shameful]

Dave

BoostBumps · Feb 27, 2015

D1JL said:

How often (in miles traveled) do you check your OCC Dave? Seems most folks need to check and empty every 1000~2000 miles

MOFiST · Feb 27, 2015

BoostBumps said:

I think its a good preventative measure to have a check valve installed...Also I always make sure that all vacuum, boost, and breather lines are clamped.....

I'll be installing a 1/2" Boomba check valve later this morning...I just didn't have time to finish up last night after installing the OCC...

The JLT OCC is airtight and sealed very well by design so my concern was not with creating any potential boost or vacuum leaks...However, there are 2 other reasons as to why I don't want boost pressure directed towards and filling up the catch can.....

1) Reason why I don't want to have the OCC pressurized during high boost conditions (particularly important when the can begins to fillup with blow-by residue) is that having the check valve in place will prevent oil that has accumulated in the OCC from "percolating" and splashing about during high turbulent conditions within the can occurring during quick boost spooling which can create quite a mess internally by stirring up the heavier "sludge" that has already collected on the bottom of the can...I really don't want to chance having any residue or crap that the can had collected getting all over and gunking up the internal upper mesh filter and then having it pushed back towards the PCV...

2) Installing a check valve between OCC outlet port and IM (located closer to intake manifold port) essentially will block or cap off the IM port during boost conditions...There is no advantage in having high boost pressure directed towards and filling up an empty canister or chamber (OCC) from the IM during boost spool-up ... Also there is no need to pressurize more volume than needed in the intake manifold!

Boomba Check Valve:

http://www.boombaracing.com/check-valve-12-mm-1-2/

View attachment 3891

Installed:

View attachment 3905

Good post. I like having technical explanations to justify what im doing. I'm gonna put my check valve back into position.
Interesting visual concept is this perculation. On that note it's coffee time. [unsurelaugh]

RAAMaudio · Feb 27, 2015

I have been thinking this check valve issue over and my gut feeling is that under boost we have the most pressure thus the most oil into the system so using the valve could increase the oil into the manifold, or so it would seem.

I have been working long hours on very physically demanding projects so might not be at my best sorting such things out...

Please explain why a check valve is going to help us on the oil caked valve issues we face.

Seriously and appreciatively,
Rick

OCDFist · Feb 27, 2015

RAAMaudio said:

I installed the 1/2" Boomba valve in my pcv line close to the manifold (currently without a cc, but will have one soon). I swear the boost was more crisp after installing it. In my opinion it won't change oil usage by itself, but protects either the stock pcv valve or the cc, whichever is first in the pcv line. And yes, clamps everywhere are a good idea.

re-rx7 · Feb 28, 2015

I believe he best idea is to use an oil with low Noac ect. There isn't a way to stop the buildup.

lessard.dcj · Feb 28, 2015

[MENTION=1045]Boomba Racing[/MENTION]. Move your asses on this OCC!

Thanks, love you guys

westcoaST · Feb 28, 2015

I use both a low NOACK oil and a mishimoto baffled catch can. They compliment each other.

D1JL · Mar 1, 2015

BoostBumps and I had continued in a privet conversation not wishing to take the other thread further off topic.

Although I still do not have or use a check valve myself.
I will never say that it is not a valid safety device.

The bottom line that we did both agree on was.

Never use a cheaply made or poorly constructed catch can on a boosted engine.

Dave

BoostBumps · Mar 1, 2015

westcoaST said:

+1...

Agreed!

Chris G · Mar 1, 2015

Is it worth installing something like this on a 100% stock FiST?

RAAMaudio · Mar 1, 2015

Absolutely, the car should come with one from the factory.

Chris G · Mar 1, 2015

Thanks! I'll have to read through this thread to learn more about how one installs

westcoaST · Mar 1, 2015

Does anyone make a 5/8" diameter metal check valve? believe Boomba only goes up to 1/2" I don't want a plastic one. I guess I can sleeve a 1/2" one with heat shrink or 1/16 thick tube. I'm using an industrial vacuum hose that is see through, and stainless steel wire reinforced, so it won't squeeze down too much. This hose will not collapse under vacuum.

BoostBumps · Mar 1, 2015

The largest diameter metal CV's I was able to find out there were 1/2" which matched the NPT's on my OCC as well as the ID's on both PCV and IM OE connectors ...

I also purchased a spare PCV hose assembly from Rock Auto...

OCDFist · Mar 1, 2015

I used 19/32" rubber emissions hose from the local auto parts store. It's a little big for the check valve, but fits the factory connectors.

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