Boost gauge installed & AP cable routed

[Wolfsbora]

Hey all, once I decided I wanted to install the boost gauge I had gotten for free when I bought some parts for my FiST, I realized the A pillar mount from ProClips would cause the AP’s cable to block the gauge so that had to be addressed. I didn’t want to install the boost gauge for its functionality, instead I just wanted a project. 😂

Thanks to @woodford86 I was previously able to route the AP cable through the right driver’s side vent (I’m considering writing up a how-to on how to do it). I used a magnetic phone mount compliments of the magnetic back of the AP. It’s a better placement and allows me to more easily see the AP’s gauges and I can now use the shift lights which I hadn’t been able to before.

That led me to installing a Whoosh Boost Tap care of @Jabbit. I had to use the Turbosmart hose which made it difficult to get onto the boost tap. Hot water didn’t do the trick so I used a lighter and gently heated up the hose end. It’s a little ugly now but does what it needs to without issue. I stupidly forgot to route the hose under the induction hose but oh well. The boost gauge does its job in its Whoosh vent adapter.

Happy with the results. I highly recommend the cable routed through the vent for the AP even if you don’t install a boost or ethanol gauge. It’s simply a better view.

 

[NOVA_Ranger]

I like it, and I'm looking forward to that write-up!

 

[Wolfsbora]

I like it, and I'm looking forward to that write-up!

I’ll definitely do it if folks are interested. Well worth the effort.

 

[dhminer]

Looks awesome. Would love to see a write up on this and how you fished the boost gauge plumbing into the door side vent

 

[Wolfsbora]

Looks awesome. Would love to see a write up on this and how you fished the boost gauge plumbing into the door side vent

I regret not taking photos but the way to do it is quite easy. There’s a gap between the opening caused by removing the vent and the air shaft itself. It’s about 0.75”. It’s right behind the Whoosh vent adapter to give you reference. Leads right to the switch and a lot of open area beyond it. You can’t miss it. If you have questions, please let me know.

EDIT: I used a coat hanger to pull the hose up from where the hose entered the firewall. Went from the vent’s gap to the firewall. Nice and easy.

 

[Wolfsbora]

Here’s a photo of the Turbosmart stock hose running from the Whoosh Boost Tap and over the induction hose. I very much regret not running it under. If you look at the photos you’ll see 2 circles. The one on the left shows how ugly of a job I did on having to use a lighter to soften the plastic to slip on the boost tap. The boost tap’s outlet is quite a bit bigger. The second circle shows it obnoxiously going over the induction hose. I think I’m going to fix these issues. I just don’t know why the boiling hot water trick didn’t work to get the hose softened enough. Advice is welcome.

 

[Jabbit]

Here’s a photo of the Turbosmart stock hose running from the Whoosh Boost Tap and over the induction hose. I very much regret not running it under. If you look at the photos you’ll see 2 circles. The one on the left shows how ugly of a job I did on having to use a lighter to soften the plastic to slip on the boost tap. The boost tap’s outlet is quite a bit bigger. The second circle shows it obnoxiously going over the induction hose. I think I’m going to fix these issues. I just don’t know why the boiling hot water trick didn’t work to get the hose softened enough. Advice is welcome.

Disconnect the intake pipe and push it under.

 

[Wolfsbora]

Disconnect the intake pipe and push it under.

Done. I have dreaded having to take the induction hose off of that aftermarket crossover pipe. It really gets on there but I managed to remove the hose on both ends. Thanks for the idea!