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Clutch is solid

Messages
26
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15
Location
Lemoore, CA, USA
#1
Hey guys im at the end of my wits with this issue. I just finished up a new clutch install with a fidenza flywheel. The slave and master clutch cylinders were both changed but i keep having an issue where the clutch only travels a 3rd of the way then goes rock solid. Ive been bleeding for what seems like ages and nothing, ill pump it and as soon as the bleeder opens itll plunge to the bottom and stick. When i pull the clutch back up it returns to the same solid impossible to move position. Ive gone through 3 master cylinders , and replaced alll the clutch lines. Am i doing something wrong ? Or did i miss a key point in the process?
 


TyphoonFiST

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Rich-fizzield
#2
Hey guys im at the end of my wits with this issue. I just finished up a new clutch install with a fidenza flywheel. The slave and master clutch cylinders were both changed but i keep having an issue where the clutch only travels a 3rd of the way then goes rock solid. Ive been bleeding for what seems like ages and nothing, ill pump it and as soon as the bleeder opens itll plunge to the bottom and stick. When i pull the clutch back up it returns to the same solid impossible to move position. Ive gone through 3 master cylinders , and replaced alll the clutch lines. Am i doing something wrong ? Or did i miss a key point in the process?
Was the friction disc installed backwards? This has happened numerous times for others who weren't paying attention to the imprint of Gearbox side and engine side of the Disc* It is BEST to use a pressure bleeder or Reverse bleeder. Fomoco says reverse bleed* others and myself have found the pressure bleeder to be adequate and I can bleed a clutch in 20 mins without removing the airbox. Its easy as pie [emoji3050].

Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk
 


OP
Justakonablue
Messages
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Location
Lemoore, CA, USA
Thread Starter #3
Was the friction disc installed backwards? This has happened numerous times for others who weren't paying attention to the imprint of Gearbox side and engine side of the Disc* It is BEST to use a pressure bleeder or Reverse bleeder. Fomoco says reverse bleed* others and myself have found the pressure bleeder to be adequate and I can bleed a clutch in 20 mins without removing the airbox. Its easy as pie [emoji3050].

Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk



Yeh, pulled the trans out again and double checked the friction plate is in the correct way. Sytems been bled the old fashioned way with 2 ppl and vacuum bled.
 


TyphoonFiST

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#5
Why are you replacing the master Cylinder? Not clutch master* Did it fail?

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TyphoonFiST

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#7
What is wrong with the old DMF? Alot of the time they can be used if the car wasn't abused* That's the only piece of the equation that could be the problem.

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TyphoonFiST

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#8
I installed a RTS dual friction with SMF into my FiST a couple months back. No issues other than the Clutch line itself that lost its end seal and had to be replaced upon Transmission replacement.

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OP
Justakonablue
Messages
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Location
Lemoore, CA, USA
Thread Starter #9
Problem solved!!! Got the trans out again and took a look at the slave cylinder. Completely shot! Replaced and redid everything , clutch works like a champ.no idea why the slave cylinder would fail that bad but i suppose its fine now.
 


FiestaSTdude

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Cary, NC
#10
Problem solved!!! Got the trans out again and took a look at the slave cylinder. Completely shot! Replaced and redid everything , clutch works like a champ.no idea why the slave cylinder would fail that bad but i suppose its fine now.
Probably faulty from the factory
 




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