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Clutch & LSD

Messages
315
Likes
393
Location
Franklinville, NC, USA
#21
Clutch and diff are in. Feels awesome. Question though for those who have done this: does anybody have a small leak afterwards? Mine is, but the shop says it might be brake fluid. I dont understand why brake fluid would be leaking from where the tranny mounts to engine….
My guess is the slave is leaking or maybe they forgot the seal on the end of the line that goes into the slave.
 


Messages
183
Likes
280
Location
Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA
#22
Yep, hydraulic clutch uses brake fluid. In our case it uses the same reservoir as our brakes so check that every day until you get it resolved. If your fluid drains from the clutch slave you may end not having fluid for your brakes. That could be bad ummkay.
 


OP
subzerospeed
Messages
216
Likes
193
Location
WA, USA
Thread Starter #23
ok sounds good, i will monitor the reservoir every couple days. it doesn't get driven much. Still seems odd that if the job was done properly, it still leaks...
 


Messages
315
Likes
393
Location
Franklinville, NC, USA
#24
Yeah, I'd go back and have them correct it. It could be contaminating your clutch. It could be letting air in the line as well making the clutch engagement random. A lot of people have had the slave pop after a fresh install. IDK if it's always installer error or crappy ford parts, possibly both. I know I am having to replace the master almost two years after it was replaced. It was replaced at 60,000 and soon at 84,000. It seems some parts are questionable.
 


TyphoonFiST

9000 Post Club
Premium Account
Messages
11,495
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7,986
Location
Rich-fizzield
#25
Clutch and diff are in. Feels awesome. Question though for those who have done this: does anybody have a small leak afterwards? Mine is, but the shop says it might be brake fluid. I dont understand why brake fluid would be leaking from where the tranny mounts to engine….
This is very unfortunate....id be bringing it back to the shop ASAP. if its bad Slave Fomoco will reimburse the shops labor time and part also. it could be the Line that goes into the slave also..it has a particular seal on the end that gets lost really really easy if you aren't paying attention upon removal....ask me how I know and some others too* Hopefully it gets resolved and the friction Disc isn't contaminated.
 


Messages
404
Likes
574
Location
Anchorage
#30
I actually had a leak at the caliper when I had my diff installed- tech messed up the line when they pulled that wheel off to drop the transmission. Look for fluid on the inside barrel of the wheels.
I was pissed enough that they sold me an Accessport at cost to make it up to me.
 


Messages
12
Likes
13
Location
North Carolina
#33
Good replies so far. I'm considering doing the Mfactory LSD while I wait for my tubular header and possibly cerakote. While I'm in there I will make sure to get all the shims seals and bolts. I also want to do clutch and slave cylinder while I'm at it but I have questions about clutch options. I'll be on a whoosh hybrid pushing close to 300hp/360ft-lbs soon and wanna know if the stock clutch is still a good option. I know for the price and quality it's a good deal but if long term if a s200 is a better investment. Curious on thoughts
 


Sam4

Senior Member
Messages
834
Likes
654
Location
West Chester, PA, USA
#34
This is very unfortunate....id be bringing it back to the shop ASAP. if its bad Slave Fomoco will reimburse the shops labor time and part also. it could be the Line that goes into the slave also..it has a particular seal on the end that gets lost really really easy if you aren't paying attention upon removal....ask me how I know and some others too* Hopefully it gets resolved and the friction Disc isn't contaminated.
I appreciate the sentiment - do you really believe Fordomoco is going to pay some independent repair shop for repairing an alleged defect? They would first need the part in question to submit for engineering analysis. Then after results, further details - Ford Factory fluid? Ford-specific procedure? Tools? Car modifications?? Hope that's an oem dogbone rear motor mount......
 


Messages
219
Likes
289
Location
Kalamazoo, MI, USA
#35
Good replies so far. I'm considering doing the Mfactory LSD while I wait for my tubular header and possibly cerakote. While I'm in there I will make sure to get all the shims seals and bolts. I also want to do clutch and slave cylinder while I'm at it but I have questions about clutch options. I'll be on a whoosh hybrid pushing close to 300hp/360ft-lbs soon and wanna know if the stock clutch is still a good option. I know for the price and quality it's a good deal but if long term if a s200 is a better investment. Curious on thoughts
I've been sitting on my spare transmission with MFACTORY diff installed. I'm still really torn on clutch options for this car. It really is difficult compared to my past platforms to choose. Unless you don't mind downtime with your car, and/or do the work yourself I think I would avoid stock clutch. My stock clutch at 100k+ is holding 300wtq admirably, but this is mostly daily driving application with minimal abuse. If you drive hard, drag race, hpde, increase traction by putting Rcomp, 200TW wide meats, or any combination it dramatically stresses the clutch. I'm excited that Whoosh has their option. I'm leaning towards that and a new dual mass flywheel. Although whoosh labels their clutch a stage 3, I bet it has excellent driveability. The friction material looks mild like a kevlar/organic blend. Increasing surface area is a great way to increase tq holding with less draw backs. The only disappointing part in my eyes is spending 700+ dollars for the dual mass. Dual mass is great for drivability, NVH, and preserving gearbox/driveline but that is just so much money. I can get/got kickass twin disc/flywheel setups for my CTS-V and old Galant VR4 for the same money.

I'm not a fan of RTS Twin friction setup because it is also exceedingly expensive, and in my experience clutch discs that don't have a more aggresive shield to encapsulate the clutch springs tend to launch out. I'm not a fan of the RTS Organic setup because it doesn't have a dual mass flywheel or clutch springs to address NVH and driveline stress.

The ST200 clutch was what I was leaning towards, but IMO Whoosh Motorsports clutch instantly makes this a bad value. The Comp stage 2 clutch looks decent, has a 2100lb pressure plate I'm assuming, but the friction media looks similar to Whoosh Clutch. I'm curious how heavy the pressure plate is on the Whoosh Clutch.

I despise Fidanza as a company. About 15 years ago a few friends of mine, and me bought clutch and flywheels from them. All of us had issues with clutch springs either rattling horribly or in two of the cars they literally had the spring come out and destroy the flywheel. We spent weeks with customer service with them telling us we didn't have the appropriate model for the use cases. Being younger and having less discretionary income I had to stay persistent. Eventually they wanted to have the product shipped back for analysis. It turns out they had multiple issues, a couple of them engineering design failures, and one of them was supplier/material issue. They agreed their were issues, but would only offer a slightly reduced price on new parts. Mind you.... they were trying to send the same faulty hardware that had already failed four of us. I have followed the company for awhile, they have definitely changed their designs through revisions since then, but they won't get a dollar out of me.

If I was going to a single mass flywheel I'd try to source a chromoly flywheel. They aren't as light or as exciting, but in my experience more reliable. The replaceable friction faces of the aluminum flywheels seem to warp and go bad quicker (40K miles). Mind you it was in a HDPE/Autocross car, so motorsport use. Everything is a compromise so you need to pick what is most important to you.
 


TyphoonFiST

9000 Post Club
Premium Account
Messages
11,495
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7,986
Location
Rich-fizzield
#36
I appreciate the sentiment - do you really believe Fordomoco is going to pay some independent repair shop for repairing an alleged defect? They would first need the part in question to submit for engineering analysis. Then after results, further details - Ford Factory fluid? Ford-specific procedure? Tools? Car modifications?? Hope that's an oem dogbone rear motor mount......
When i worked at Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge..... we did this stuff all the time. It was a labor claim....part failed...shop installed new part and was reimbursed by Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge.
 


Sam4

Senior Member
Messages
834
Likes
654
Location
West Chester, PA, USA
#37
When i worked at Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge..... we did this stuff all the time. It was a labor claim....part failed...shop installed new part and was reimbursed by Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge.
from the dealership. What if I walked into your parts department with a dripping slave cylinder and said I wanted a new one (again), cause its 'bad'?
 


TyphoonFiST

9000 Post Club
Premium Account
Messages
11,495
Likes
7,986
Location
Rich-fizzield
#38
from the dealership. What if I walked into your parts department with a dripping slave cylinder and said I wanted a new one (again), cause its 'bad'?
You would get a refund on the part as they come with warranties. But if you are not a wholesale customer/Repair shop you wouldn't get paid for the labor again*

Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk
 


Messages
12
Likes
13
Location
North Carolina
#39
I've been sitting on my spare transmission with MFACTORY diff installed. I'm still really torn on clutch options for this car. It really is difficult compared to my past platforms to choose. Unless you don't mind downtime with your car, and/or do the work yourself I think I would avoid stock clutch. My stock clutch at 100k+ is holding 300wtq admirably, but this is mostly daily driving application with minimal abuse. If you drive hard, drag race, hpde, increase traction by putting Rcomp, 200TW wide meats, or any combination it dramatically stresses the clutch. I'm excited that Whoosh has their option. I'm leaning towards that and a new dual mass flywheel. Although whoosh labels their clutch a stage 3, I bet it has excellent driveability. The friction material looks mild like a kevlar/organic blend. Increasing surface area is a great way to increase tq holding with less draw backs. The only disappointing part in my eyes is spending 700+ dollars for the dual mass. Dual mass is great for drivability, NVH, and preserving gearbox/driveline but that is just so much money. I can get/got kickass twin disc/flywheel setups for my CTS-V and old Galant VR4 for the same money.

I'm not a fan of RTS Twin friction setup because it is also exceedingly expensive, and in my experience clutch discs that don't have a more aggresive shield to encapsulate the clutch springs tend to launch out. I'm not a fan of the RTS Organic setup because it doesn't have a dual mass flywheel or clutch springs to address NVH and driveline stress.

The ST200 clutch was what I was leaning towards, but IMO Whoosh Motorsports clutch instantly makes this a bad value. The Comp stage 2 clutch looks decent, has a 2100lb pressure plate I'm assuming, but the friction media looks similar to Whoosh Clutch. I'm curious how heavy the pressure plate is on the Whoosh Clutch.

I despise Fidanza as a company. About 15 years ago a few friends of mine, and me bought clutch and flywheels from them. All of us had issues with clutch springs either rattling horribly or in two of the cars they literally had the spring come out and destroy the flywheel. We spent weeks with customer service with them telling us we didn't have the appropriate model for the use cases. Being younger and having less discretionary income I had to stay persistent. Eventually they wanted to have the product shipped back for analysis. It turns out they had multiple issues, a couple of them engineering design failures, and one of them was supplier/material issue. They agreed their were issues, but would only offer a slightly reduced price on new parts. Mind you.... they were trying to send the same faulty hardware that had already failed four of us. I have followed the company for awhile, they have definitely changed their designs through revisions since then, but they won't get a dollar out of me.

If I was going to a single mass flywheel I'd try to source a chromoly flywheel. They aren't as light or as exciting, but in my experience more reliable. The replaceable friction faces of the aluminum flywheels seem to warp and go bad quicker (40K miles). Mind you it was in a HDPE/Autocross car, so motorsport use. Everything is a compromise so you need to pick what is most important to you.
Thanks for all the good info here. I would be doing all the work myself over the course of a long weekend so I don't have that added expense to worry about. I'm at 73k now and I like the idea of a single mass flywheel. But not for a daily driven car like mine. Plus it limits my clutch options as they will have to be sprung. I was checking out the whoosh and st200 but didn't wanna spend the extra coin if not required. I def wanna have a new clutch that will last annother 70k+ I guess I was hoping for opnions on guys thay ran that much power through their factory clutch long term. I know I wanna stay away from the super high end twin disc and stage 37 clutches. Do you think a new flywheel is needed. Idk if anyone can surface these DMF's but I wasnt planing on swapping my flywheel unless it looked all burned up or was desperate for a single mass
 


Messages
219
Likes
289
Location
Kalamazoo, MI, USA
#40
Thanks for all the good info here. I would be doing all the work myself over the course of a long weekend so I don't have that added expense to worry about. I'm at 73k now and I like the idea of a single mass flywheel. But not for a daily driven car like mine. Plus it limits my clutch options as they will have to be sprung. I was checking out the whoosh and st200 but didn't wanna spend the extra coin if not required. I def wanna have a new clutch that will last annother 70k+ I guess I was hoping for opnions on guys thay ran that much power through their factory clutch long term. I know I wanna stay away from the super high end twin disc and stage 37 clutches. Do you think a new flywheel is needed. Idk if anyone can surface these DMF's but I wasnt planing on swapping my flywheel unless it looked all burned up or was desperate for a single mass
In my experience with other platforms, anything after 100k is lucky/ borrowed time with DMF. Also from other posts I've read through, Ford Service Manual has measurements to see if the flywheel is still in spec, but there is no instructions for resurfacing. In fact the service manual explicitly says no servicing of the flywheel.
 




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