CMbuildz pacman brake duct shrouds

[OEFvet11]

http://www.rightfootdown.com/rfd-garage/ford-fiesta-st/track-worthy-brake-upgrade-fiesta-st/
Article Right Foot Down did on my car when installing the ducts a week ago. Check it out. He did write down the wrong price for the ducts. We will be doing testing on May 10th to see just how good they work. We expect to see 100 degree differences on the track we are running. I'll post real data soon as we hit the track.

 

[Chuckable]

Oh yeah, real brake duct hose both sides at last.

Looking good! I'd really like to see close-ups of the mounting and routing since you managed to retain the fog lights. I think this is what many people are looking for!

 

[Chuckable]

http://www.rightfootdown.com/rfd-garage/ford-fiesta-st/track-worthy-brake-upgrade-fiesta-st/
Article Right Foot Down did on my car when installing the ducts a week ago. Check it out. He did write down the wrong price for the ducts. We will be doing testing on May 10th to see just how good they work. We expect to see 100 degree differences on the track we are running. I'll post real data soon as we hit the track.

Looking forward to your test results!

 

[Siestarider]

Exterior shot of fog light and home made vent

Early attempt at converting inside of vent to brake duct hose feed box. Not durable.

Latest version, standard PVC couplings, some grinding to fit 2" thin wall pipe, riveted aluminum shrouds held in place with duct tape, then fiberglassed in. Hoping this version will be durable on track.

Ready to attach hose

 

[jeffreylyon]

I haven't built a car in decades but, in my day, direct cooling on one side of the rotor was a sure fire way to crack it. We would mount a soup can in front of the rotor and pop-rivet a piece of sheet metal inside of the downstream end to divert air to both sides or just blow on the caliper (aluminum, so the heat transfer from one side to the other is high) or, since we ran in the southern California summer, did both.

Has anyone had any rotor warping or cracking with directed cooling on just one side?

 

[D1JL]

Has anyone had any rotor warping or cracking with directed cooling on just one side?

You are correct however, with the CMbuildz pacman brake duct shrouds the air is directed into the center of the rotors and vented out via normal rotation.
This is the way the rotors are normally cooled just forced air added.
Both sides are cooled so warping or cracking should not be caused by this method.

I do concede that when rotors get very hot and then are cooled rapidly they can crack or warp.
This however, is usually caused by rotors cooling after the car is stopped and air is no longer flowing through the rotors.
This of course is just another reason to take a cool down lap or two after hot laps on track days.




BTW, I finally got all the things needed to start building my inlet duct funnels.



Dave

 

[Chuckable]

Siestarider, thanks for the pics! I like your solution of using the area to the left and right of the fog lights for ducting. From the outside, unless you were looking close, no one would ever know.

 

[Chuckable]

BTW, I finally got all the things needed to start building my inlet duct funnels.

For brake cooling ducts?

 

[D1JL]

For brake cooling ducts?

The key words were "start building" LOL


Now I have the fog grills, a bumper (parts), clay, and fiberglass.
This is my next project as soon as I finish my "Gamming Seat".



Dave

 

[Siestarider]

Siestarider, thanks for the pics! I like your solution of using the area to the left and right of the fog lights for ducting. From the outside, unless you were looking close, no one would ever know.

Had them like that for more than a year, even I don't notice them. It just occurred to me reading your comment, if I had planned to end up where I did with this approach, probably a lot easier to just open up the fake part of the vents and create a fiberglass piece in back sloping to round outlets by fog lights for hoses. They would still be stealthy, but less restriction on high pressure side. Oh well, only took me a year to get it fully functional.

 

[Chuckable]

Don't want to thread jack, so looking forward to updates when you get to it.

 

[Siestarider]

10-4, now I will have to pull wheels again and apply temp paint night before Sebring. That stuff does not hold up well in wet, as I learned the typical way.

 

[CMbuildz Racing]

Sup guys, going to be running a deal starting today may 1st. These are built upon order [emoji5]

CMBUILDZ brake ducts shrouds only $115 shipped
Send payment to [email protected]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Fidy Trim]

Any plans to make a version that would work with the Willwood BBK?

 

[Siestarider]

First real track test this weekend, both CMB ducts piped from front fog vents with tight 2" hose. Temp paint indicated rotor edges reached above 750 and below 1000 F. Both outside rotor edges ran slightly cooler than inside edges, so there is apparently no threat from over-cooling the inside face. Both hubs stayed below 750. inner face of outside rotor at hub on right side ran over 750, but the driver's side did not. I suspect my attempt to direct a little more air into inside of rotor hub on driver's side worked. Not sure its worth doing for small apparent gain.

I abused the OEM brakes and pads, running BFG Rival S rather than SC-2's, picked up more than 0.1g on decelelration, no brake fade at any point. Pads visably worn, six track days and 6 months of DD on them, still have several track days left in them. None of the greasy feel threshold braking into hairpin I felt with the SC-2's last time at Sebring, still suspect it was tires giving up a little versus brake fade. I will post pics when I have a chance to download/upload.