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Diameter of throttle body inlet?

RAAMaudio

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#1
TB inlet diameter
2.25"
2.5"
Or in mm

I am ordering parts to build a 2.5" pipe from the Cobb IC I am installing to the TB, it will just have a 90 at the bottom and a 45 into the TB at the top for much cleaner flow and will be well insulated.

I am away from home, car is there, my notes as well, I do not recall if 2.25 or 2.5" and need to order a 45 degree silicone elbow to fit so it is there when I return.

I will have a ported and insulated, Symposer deleted pipe for sale when I get this built:)

Thanks:)
Rick
 


OP
R

RAAMaudio

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Thread Starter #5
Thanks, appreciate the posts:)

I may offer this as a part for sale if enough interest but for now I just want to make a part I have always wanted for my car
but not done yet.
 


JPGC

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#6
I'm in for seeing how this will test out for you. This seems great for a hybrid or larger turbo. Wonder if it will cause lag with the stock turbo...
 


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RAAMaudio

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Thread Starter #7
52mm plus 3 mm wall thickness(1/8th" which I am sure they are not that thick) makes it 2.28" which is far less than 2.5" so a 2.25"x2.5" coupling would work just fine but a 2.125"/2 1/8th inch might be better but probably not made.

Since the Cobb IC has 2.5" cast outlets they are probably 2.25" internal diameter at the most so I will look for a 2.5 to 2.25 reducer coupling and 2.25" aluminum elbow and straight pipe but if not found then the same coupler with a 2.5"
elbow and 2.25" straight pipe.

-----------------

Causing lag on a stock turbo, probably not unless huge piping was used but I am no expert in this area.

Thanks:)
 


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#8
I would be up for one of these, especially if you delete the symposer take-off.
 


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RAAMaudio

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Thread Starter #9
NO SYMPOSER of course:)

I just need to figure out if I can leave off the nipple for the boost line.

The other sensor has to stay, I have to find a mount for it but not able until I go home in a week, 10 days, etc....unless I get some help on here that is but I will look right now:)
 


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#10
Think you will need to keep the vac line and the other sensor is the air temp sensor. You could also add a meth bung at the intercooler end for us methheads.
 


OP
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RAAMaudio

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Thread Starter #11
Thanks:)

There was talk on a thread about the Vac line, something about being able to not use it, etc...I just do not recall and have not been able to find the thread on it.

Air Temp Sensor, I have been all over the Ford parts site and can find a picture of it but no other info, I need to see what it is so I can order a mount if they are made.

Bung for WMI, I have just tapped into the tubing before with good luck but over time perhaps it would strip out, etc...I will look into this a bit more.

Thanks again!
Rick
 


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RAAMaudio

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Thread Starter #13
Thank you very much:)

I do recall what it looks like but what I need is a part number of the sensor so I can look for the flange type I need to order, or just the flange type so I do not have to look it up:)

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I see you already have the wmi injector mounted on your pipe, do you know if there are ones made with enough material to add a thin nut or maybe one of those really thin spring steel keepers so it stays nice and tight?

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I want to make this as simple as possible, less cost, less weight, less restriction, etc.......

My plan was to just make one for myself but if I can do this for a decent cost and enough want one I can have them made which would be nice but if only a few want one I will just make this a DIY mod with a few pics, etc....

We can always just cut the flange off the stock pipe for the temp sensor and use an aluminum push pipe thread fitting for the vac line.

---------------

Thanks again:)
 


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RAAMaudio

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Thread Starter #15
Aluminum then covered with a wrap of aluminum, looks like the gold foil but has a thin layer of fiberglass on the back.

Parts are on the way to my place, just have to get the flange for the temp sensor sorted out.
 


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