EDITED: 0psi cyl4 - (no codes, no boost loss - 25.45psi, lack of raw power - very slow to accelerate up to speed)

flbchbm

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#1
no codes, no boost loss - 25.45psi,
just very slow to accelerate up to speed.
started about the same time as last fill-up. Never topped off. No stalling.
Always Costco 93oct
20k miles
Tried another tune. Feels like 160hp, not 220hp.
Thinking either fuel or evap solenoid, even though no code.
afaik, I did not accidentally use Reg gas....
 


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Have checked to see if the clutch is faulty and is slipping. With only 20k miles id hope thats not it. Also check your brake fluid as both the master and slave cylinder can have a mind of there own and leak. The brake fluid light won't come on until the reservoir is damn near empty as I had to replace my master clutch cylinder in the spring.
 


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#3
You've been hit by an Octane Cheater. IMO Sunoco is the absolute worst for octane cheating but it can also happen at any gas station. As for why, look at the price difference between 87 octane and 91 or 93 octane. Fill that premium service tank with 10,000 gallons of 87 octane and your looking at a nice fat profit. Sad thing is that it may not be the individual station, it may be a fuel distributor doing the theft. Because NO, as in NONE, State has a policy of checking for Octane Fraud. Best thing you can do at this point is file a complaint with the local AND State Police. Other than that burn that gas up ASAP and find another place to get your fuel.

BTW, if you use your mileage indicator frequently this can act as an Octane Indicator. Because 87 octane results in about a 3 mpg loss in fuel economy.
 


Dialcaliper

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You've been hit by an Octane Cheater. IMO Sunoco is the absolute worst for octane cheating but it can also happen at any gas station. As for why, look at the price difference between 87 octane and 91 or 93 octane. Fill that premium service tank with 10,000 gallons of 87 octane and your looking at a nice fat profit. Sad thing is that it may not be the individual station, it may be a fuel distributor doing the theft. Because NO, as in NONE, State has a policy of checking for Octane Fraud. Best thing you can do at this point is file a complaint with the local AND State Police. Other than that burn that gas up ASAP and find another place to get your fuel.

BTW, if you use your mileage indicator frequently this can act as an Octane Indicator. Because 87 octane results in about a 3 mpg loss in fuel economy.
You’re right that “Octane cheating” is pretty common at cheap gas stations. State inspections usually catch other cheating like dispense rates, contamination, etc, they don’t have any good way of properly testing octane (which basically requires burning it in a special test engine in a lab). Also, many states only test annually, so in some cases it’s as easy as making sure the months around the inspection are up to snuff and cheating the rest of the year. A few states also test based on consumer complaints, but I think they are in the minority.

Edit: I’m referring to true octane ratings which are half of the (R+M)/2 rating used in the US and are most relevant to high pressure in-cylinder load conditions especially for boosted engines. There exist portable test units to verify “octane index” at normal atmospheric conditions that are used by inspectors, but are dependent on infrared measurements and a derived mathematical model to predict octane.

Could also just be a batch of bad/old or contaminated gas. Add an octane booster to the tank and see if it goes away.

However, that said, if octane booster or a fresh tank of gas (possibly from a real top tier gas station) what the OP is describing sounds a bit more severe than that. I’d start by checking spark plugs for lean/rich condition, and logging data or gauges to check cylinder knock corrections, AFR, wastegate duty cycle, fuel rail pressure, LT/ST fuel trims, etc.

The engine might be pulling timing or power because of knock or AFR being slightly off, Or it’s possible it could be something like a partially plugged catalytic converter or fuel filter/pump issue or maybe an O2 sensor starting to go.

Sounds like something is “off” and recent, but just not enough or for long enough to trigger any codes. Might also check cylinder compression, and for coolant in oil or vice versa to rule out a popped head gasket, which is not out of the question running increased boost levels.

@flbchbm What mods and what tunes have you been running and what year car? It’s an off possibility, but any pop/crackle tunes might have accelerated a cat failure even if it’s not a direct cause. If your tunes are older, some may also have things like Cat CEL disable, which would also hide something like a cat failure or exhaust issues (restrictions or muffler damage) from triggering a code.
 


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rallytaff

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My gas mileage dropped from 23.9 to 21.4 after having my Stage 3 tune dropped to Stage 2 and the original downpipe put on. Weird!
 


Dpro

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You've been hit by an Octane Cheater. IMO Sunoco is the absolute worst for octane cheating but it can also happen at any gas station. As for why, look at the price difference between 87 octane and 91 or 93 octane. Fill that premium service tank with 10,000 gallons of 87 octane and your looking at a nice fat profit. Sad thing is that it may not be the individual station, it may be a fuel distributor doing the theft. Because NO, as in NONE, State has a policy of checking for Octane Fraud. Best thing you can do at this point is file a complaint with the local AND State Police. Other than that burn that gas up ASAP and find another place to get your fuel.

BTW, if you use your mileage indicator frequently this can act as an Octane Indicator. Because 87 octane results in about a 3 mpg loss in fuel economy.
true maybe on places like small gas stations, but ya he went to Costco. Which is a National chain that follows standards and is pretty damn upstanding as a retailer so ya no I cry foul on your assumption.
I put Costco 91 in my car all the time no power loss at all , I have even used it in my E30 mix so ya no on your thoughts about Costco.
 


rallytaff

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I too use COSTCO 91 in my car and never had a problem with losing power.
 


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Costco is top tier gas. Not sure why anyone is saying that’s the issue.

The car is tuned, right? Three times now, my car has magically gone into Slot 2 of the Accessport, which is economy mode. In my case, it limited boost to 14 lbs though, but it’s worth checking
 


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First, per several magazine test reports changing to 87 Octane drops the power output to the 160 hp region, which is the OP's guess of his output. When I first got my FiST I used 87 octane to specifically reduce the power while I was learning the differences between front and rear wheel drive.

As for getting hit with low octane "premium" at Costco two items come to mind. First is that I am quite certain that Costco does NOT check the octane of the fuel they purchase. Second, due to the cost differences I am pretty certain that there are Fuel Distributors out there who are Octane Cheaters.
 


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#10
The OP describes something akin to losing 60 HP. Assuming that the power loss is indeed that extreme, “octane cheating” won’t do that.

Even bad gas won’t come close, short of syphoning gas out of a lawn mower thats been sitting behind your shed for 10 years.
 


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A fuel delivery driver can easily make a mistake of putting 87 octane into a 91 holding tank. AKA, getting a tank of "Bad Gas". The opposite can also happen. I run a octane booster in my supercharged car, not specifically for this situation, but to get the full performance out of my car without the engine going boom. But if I get a tank of "Bad Gas", I'm somewhat protected.
 


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flbchbm

flbchbm

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Sorry for not keeping up with the thread. It's been hectic here. And the results are in and I am the father! Oh wait, wrong thread. Lots of wild ass guesses on here, LOL. I'll have to read everybody's comments this week. It finally did throw up some p0300, 0301, 0303 and 0304 codes (random misfire on Startup and misfire on cylinders one three and four, but never cylinder 2.

Zero PSI in cylinder 4. Long block is 12 to 16 weeks out, but that doesn't matter since I stop driving it after the first salting of the roads each year.
Covered under 5/60 power train warranty!

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TyphoonFiST

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Sorry for not keeping up with the thread. It's been hectic here. And the results are in and I am the father! Oh wait, wrong thread. Lots of wild ass guesses on here, LOL. I'll have to read everybody's comments this week. It finally did throw up some p0301, 303 and 304 codes (random misfire on Startup and misfire on cylinders one three and four, but never cylinder 2.

Zero PSI in cylinder 4. Long block is 12 to 16 weeks out, but that doesn't matter since I stop driving it after the first salting of the roads each year.

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Mileage? only 20K?!?!
 


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flbchbm

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Yeppppp.

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Holy crap cylinder 4 pretty much gave up on life. That sucks. May be an old joke but was the motor built on a Monday(I don't want to be here) or a Friday (meh close enough I'm going home early) lol. Best of luck when the replacement long block arrives.
 


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#16
Have you been monitoring octane adjustments? I started watching closely when I was running ethanol blends...
 


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#17
Got to be more to this story. These engines don’t just quit at 20k miles
 


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flbchbm

flbchbm

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Thread Starter #18
Got to be more to this story. These engines don’t just quit at 20k miles
They are going to look into the engine when they swap it out. They didn't take the time to borescope. They just want to do the long block swap. I'm fine with that.
 


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flbchbm

flbchbm

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Thread Starter #20
Any update here on COD?
Sorry, I've been offline for months.... the updated ETA is still Dec of LAST year. The dealership is a bunch of morons that will not call Holman and ask the question: What is holding up getting an engine? Parts & Logistics Solutions | Holman is the company that provides remanufactured engines.

Dealer basically forgot about me since the engine was ordered on the RO that they closed. No COPIS filed. The car is in my driveway rather than their cramped lot where door dings and more DO happen I've been told. I detailed it and covered it for winter. I'm going to call Holman this week and pretend to be the service advisor (parts would normally make the call) and get an answer. There are ZERO long blocks in Ford's USA inventory. A COPIS case was opened by the dealer. Service Manager told me one customer waited 8 months for something, another waited 4 or 5 for a trans. And he said the whole line of Ecoboost engines have issues. Coolant intrusion, warped head or block surface, the list goes on. I FINALLY got a loaner, after 5 months. Ranger FX4 has the 2.3L While my commute is only 18mi RT, I miss the FiST mpg...

Yes, I have a COPIS case of my own with Furd and a dedicated rep, but she said Furd will not call Holman. That is on the dealership. Well, they are the initial issue, so no luck there.

They have not brought up the subject of RAV, Re-Aquired Vehicle (buy-back). While I want my car back to enjoy, depending on what they offer, trade in, market, etc., plus rebates if I buy another Furd, the way values are still high, it might not be bad, but who I am kidding....never ever did Furd do something good. They'll offer me pennies....the only one I'd want is the Maverick AWD 2.0 ecoboost w/4k tow package and then I'd lower it with the Eibach spring set for $350. Problem besides the closed order window thanks to chips and other supply issue? The Lariat equipped my way is $39k, but none equipped that way in my color and they are selling like hot cakes, so no dealing the stealership. Just my $500 military and $1,500 RAV rebate. I'd have to probably wait for 2024, even if they open the order window again.
 


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