Factory Turbocharger questions

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#1
Hi all,
A few questions about the factory turbo.
Car is stock aside from cold air intake and upgraded radiator. I would like to start working through the COBB tunes/upgrades but haven't yet.

1. how is the turbocharger itself lubricated/cooled? Is it sealed or does it have oil passages to the engine? Does it need to be maintained in anyway?

2. Usefulness of "blankets"/ heat wrapping for turbos and exhaust sections.
At first I thought it seemed like a no brainer to try to keep heat out of the engine bay, but then it occurred to me that the heat which is currently being leaked/vented into the engine bay would now be going into the turbine of the turbocharger, potentially making it hot. Any thoughts? Any informed data on the subject?

Thanks.
 


dhminer

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#2
Hi all,
A few questions about the factory turbo.
Car is stock aside from cold air intake and upgraded radiator. I would like to start working through the COBB tunes/upgrades but haven't yet.

1. how is the turbocharger itself lubricated/cooled? Is it sealed or does it have oil passages to the engine? Does it need to be maintained in anyway?

2. Usefulness of "blankets"/ heat wrapping for turbos and exhaust sections.
At first I thought it seemed like a no brainer to try to keep heat out of the engine bay, but then it occurred to me that the heat which is currently being leaked/vented into the engine bay would now be going into the turbine of the turbocharger, potentially making it hot. Any thoughts? Any informed data on the subject?

Thanks.
It has oil and coolant feeds/returns. Don’t bother blanketing or otherwise messing with the factory turbo. Heat isn’t really the problem, flow at higher RPM is. Pick a reputable tuner from here and send it. E30 does wonders
 


XR650R

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#3
The only turbo maintenance you need is regular oil changes. Ford says 10,000 miles. I say bullsh*t. Use good full synthetic and change it every 5,000. More often than that, if you really thrash it. Keep your turbo clean.
 


TyphoonFiST

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#5
Awesome. I've been changing oil every 3000ish on full synthetic.
That's a waste of Syn oil.....should run at very minimum 5k* Its made to NOT break down as fast and resist the heat better than normal Dino crude* If you really wanna get Technical....Send some to Blackstone Laboratories....they will analyze it for a Fee* They also send out bottles and envelopes for free. All you have to do is drain the oil into a little bottle. Put it into the Bigger bottle and send it off to them after you put in your information at their site. You can check whatever you'd like also....Like all metallurgical content and how much of the additive package is still in the oil. It also can let you know if disaster is on the horizon. Good luck....Enjoy!

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 


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#6
That's a waste of Syn oil.....should run at very minimum 5k* Its made to NOT break down as fast and resist the heat better than normal Dino crude* If you really wanna get Technical....Send some to Blackstone Laboratories....they will analyze it for a Fee* They also send out bottles and envelopes for free. All you have to do is drain the oil into a little bottle. Put it into the Bigger bottle and send it off to them after you put in your information at their site. You can check whatever you'd like also....Like all metallurgical content and how much of the additive package is still in the oil. It also can let you know if disaster is on the horizon. Good luck....Enjoy!

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
agreed.
On my fusion i always ran synthetic (1.5 eco boost). The synthetic was rated for 10,000, I always changed at 8,00.
On the FiST I change at 5-6k as it gets ran a little harder

3k is fine, but a waste or money IMO if you’re full synthetic

unless maybe it’s a track car
 


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