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Fiesta ST-2 clucth peddle not returning

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Location
Hampshire
#1
Hi, the clucth peddle on my 2014 ST-2 isnt returning fully to the top, no visable leaks from the gearbox or brake/clucth reservoir, no fluid loss, again nothing leaking from the master cyclinder in the car. Bleed the clucth four times, it was full of air, works perfectly for an day then back to staying half way.

At this point im thinking the clucth master cylinder is drawing air into the system, but im a bit lost at this point.

Seen a clutch specialist, they agree no slip, no visual leaks inside the car or in the engine bay. half a litre of new fluid has been pushed through. After bleeding, the biting point is higher on the peddle, still no leaking fluid between the bell housing and gearbox.

If the slave cylinder was the issue wouldn’t I see an oil leak?

Kind regards
Chris Marshall
 


M-Sport fan

9000 Post Club
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Princeton, N.J.
#3
Yes, if a proper full flush/bleed did not solve the issue, and there are no leaks, something is worn out (scored master cylinder shaft, worn main sleeve, or throw out bearing of the slave cylinder, etc.).

You could try to replace the pedal's return spring, and replace the master cylinder first to see if that solves the problems, before you tear into the whole time consuming, PIA, down time generating, VERY co$tly (if you do not DIY), slave cylinder replacement.
 


OP
C
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Location
Hampshire
Thread Starter #4
Yes, if a proper full flush/bleed did not solve the issue, and there are no leaks, something is worn out (scored master cylinder shaft, worn main sleeve, or throw out bearing of the slave cylinder, etc.).

You could try to replace the pedal's return spring, and replace the master cylinder first to see if that solves the problems, before you tear into the whole time consuming, PIA, down time generating, VERY co$tly (if you do not DIY), slave cylinder replacement.
Thanks for the information, we have checked the return spring and peddle mechanism, all look good and work as they should.

I crack on with master cylinder replacement first, thanks.
 


Sam4

Senior Member
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Location
West Chester, PA, USA
#6
Hi, the clucth peddle on my 2014 ST-2 isnt returning fully to the top, no visable leaks from the gearbox or brake/clucth reservoir, no fluid loss, again nothing leaking from the master cyclinder in the car. Bleed the clucth four times, it was full of air, works perfectly for an day then back to staying half way.

At this point im thinking the clucth master cylinder is drawing air into the system, but im a bit lost at this point.

Seen a clutch specialist, they agree no slip, no visual leaks inside the car or in the engine bay. half a litre of new fluid has been pushed through. After bleeding, the biting point is higher on the peddle, still no leaking fluid between the bell housing and gearbox.

If the slave cylinder was the issue wouldn’t I see an oil leak?

Kind regards
Chris Marshall
They say (dealership) the Master is almost never the issue / replaced.
 


TyphoonFiST

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Rich-fizzield
#10
Id be doing the Clutch master before anything* I had the pedal drop after installing my Clarke Trans with a New Fomoco slave. No visible leak either. I decided that i would replace the Clutch master before Dropping the Transmission again. Here i am 20k later still driving around just fine.
 


OP
C
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Location
Hampshire
Thread Starter #11
Hi, update on the issue. The master was changed out, issue still remains, it’s got to be the slave at this point.
 


TyphoonFiST

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#12
Hi, update on the issue. The master was changed out, issue still remains, it’s got to be the slave at this point.
How was the system Bled? Reverse Bled? Pump and Dump? Power bleeder? And how many times? It took me 3 times with a Motive. 0108 power bleeder.
 


OP
C
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10
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Location
Hampshire
Thread Starter #13
Hi, honestly not sure, the garage I used specialise in clutch’s but I didn’t think to ask.
when I’ve bleed the system at home, I use a one way bleed kit for brakes and clutch’s, I keep pouring new into the reservoir and push/pull the peddle, tonight’s go was 40 pumps on the peddle. It’s perfect after that bleed it’s just it doesn’t last
 


OP
C
Messages
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Location
Hampshire
Thread Starter #14
Still can’t find a leak between the bell housing and block, I thought if the slave was at fault it would leak?
 


OP
C
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Location
Hampshire
Thread Starter #16
It won't necessarily leak. Especially to the outside, since it's inside. But the sticking problem seems to come from sticking on the shaft.
I was expecting the fluid to run round the gearbox bell housing and find a way out the joint, I’m not losing any noticeable amount from the res either, this is turning into an expensive issue
 




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