Flywheel rivets

[CraiMart]

I took my car to a transmission shop to replace the transmission. All new parts and they jacked it all up. If you are in the Santa Fe, NM area never go to A1 transmission. Anyways 1 of the things they did was they put the clutch disc in backwards. I decided to open her up myself and found that the rivets from the clutch disc made contact with the rivets on the flywheel and are scraped up. The flywheel seems fine. It seems to spring back fine and not a lot of play rocking it back and forth. Should I be concerned at all?

 

[Old Mike Emerson]

I took my car to a transmission shop to replace the transmission. All new parts and they jacked it all up. If you are in the Santa Fe, NM area never go to A1 transmission. Anyways 1 of the things they did was they put the clutch disc in backwards. I decided to open her up myself and found that the rivets from the clutch disc made contact with the rivets on the flywheel and are scraped up. The flywheel seems fine. It seems to spring back fine and not a lot of play rocking it back and forth. Should I be concerned at all?

I would put it back together and see what happens, if not driven that far I would think it's all right.

 

[Ford ST]

I would definitely replace the clutch slave cylinder. They are famous for exploding when the clutch is installed backwards.

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[CraiMart]

I would definitely replace the clutch slave cylinder. They are famous for exploding when the clutch is installed backwards.

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Yes I definitely as it was in pieces. 😂 Im concerned about the flywheel having scraping to it’s rivets. I installed it though. Let’s see if there are any issues in the near future.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Did* you get any of your money back for the repair issue? The clutch disc has directions on it stamped on which way to face it also* classic incompetence @ A1 ...IMO.

 

[CraiMart]

Di you get any of your money back for the repair issue? The clutch disc has directions on it stamped on which way to face it also* classic incompetence @ A1 ...IMO.

Yes I got some back but with the parts damaged I still lost around $650. Exactly! How does a “transmission” shop do that!? They had to drop the trans 3 times total to figure out that 1 mistake. They couldn’t even install the axle seals correctly. That first week I was trying to figur out a way to take that place down!! 😂After buying new parts again I just finished the trans swap myself this past weekend and all seems well so far.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Yes I got some back but with the parts damaged I still lost around $650. Exactly! How does a “transmission” shop do that!? They had to drop the trans 3 times total to figure out that 1 mistake. They couldn’t even install the axle seals correctly. That first week I was trying to figur out a way to take that place down!! 😂After buying new parts again I just finished the trans swap myself this past weekend and all seems well so far.

How was bleeding the slave cyl? How did you R&R it? Did you remove the control arms? Engine cradle? or just move/swing calipers w/brackets and the CV Axles out of the why and disconnect the ball joints?

 

[CraiMart]

How was bleeding the slave cyl? How did you R&R it? Did you remove the control arms? Engine cradle? or just move/swing calipers w/brackets and the CV Axles out of the why and disconnect the ball joints?

Bleeding the slave wasn’t hard at all. Only problem was that the slave didn’t come with the little rubber seal so it was leaking at first but then I just used the seal from the old one. It was still good. I didn’t drop the sub frame or remove the control arms. Just removed the ball joints and moved the brackets over to remove the axles. I removed the charge pipes and RMM before that. On top just removed the air box, battery tray, battery tray bracket, shift cable bracket, motor mount and the additional bracket attached to the trans. Bought an engine support for $80 at harbor freight which worked perfect. I made the bracket to attach to the motor which connects to the motor support out of a thick piece of steel so I didn’t have to buy one. Marked the bolts from the bell housing because some are different sizes. There is one bolt that won’t come out completely because it hits the down pipe but it slides out enough to not have to worry about it. I did not have to remove the starter motor. I also replaced the flywheel. I know there is a flywheel stop tool but didn’t want to spend the money so I used a dull chisel to stick into the teeth of the ring gear with a bolt in one of the holes for the bell housing for leverage. It will not damage anything. It worked great minus some awkward positioning as I did it on jack stands. I did have a set of hands to both actually drop and install the trans. It’s not heavy (100 lbs) but it’s kind of awkward because you have to tilt it to remove so it’s just better to have someone at least support some of the weight while you maneuver it. That’s the main stuff. Of course you have to remove some electrical connections as well. Also had to remove the the headlights and cowel. Torqued all to spec along the way. I don’t think I’m missing anything but anyone can feel free to ask me about it if there are questions.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Bleeding the slave wasn’t hard at all. Only problem was that the slave didn’t come with the little rubber seal so it was leaking at first but then I just used the seal from the old one. It was still good. I didn’t drop the sub frame or remove the control arms. Just removed the ball joints and moved the brackets over to remove the axles. I removed the charge pipes and RMM before that. On top just removed the air box, battery tray, battery tray bracket, shift cable bracket, motor mount and the additional bracket attached to the trans. Bought an engine support for $80 at harbor freight which worked perfect. I made the bracket to attach to the motor which connects to the motor support out of a thick piece of steel so I didn’t have to buy one. Marked the bolts from the bell housing because some are different sizes. There is one bolt that won’t come out completely because it hits the down pipe but it slides out enough to not have to worry about it. I did not have to remove the starter motor. I also replaced the flywheel. I know there is a flywheel stop tool but didn’t want to spend the money so I used a dull chisel to stick into the teeth of the ring gear with a bolt in one of the holes for the bell housing for leverage. It will not damage anything. It worked great minus some awkward positioning as I did it on jack stands. I did have a set of hands to both actually drop and install the trans. It’s not heavy (100 lbs) but it’s kind of awkward because you have to tilt it to remove so it’s just better to have someone at least support some of the weight while you maneuver it. That’s the main stuff. Of course you have to remove some electrical connections as well. Also had to remove the the headlights and cowel. Torqued all to spec along the way. I don’t think I’m missing anything but anyone can feel free to ask me about it if there are questions.

I'm awaiting a Clarke Trans. As mine grenades during a Data log session. I'm like 2/3 finished with my R&R . But quit and am waiting for the Trans now before I open up the hydraulic system completely.

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[CraiMart]

I'm awaiting a Clarke Trans. As mine grenades during a Data log session. I'm like 2/3 finished with my R&R . But quit and am waiting for the Trans now before I open up the hydraulic system completely.

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Dang! Nice!! Didn’t you have your trans replaced once already? I thought I saw that on here somewhere.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Dang! Nice!! Didn’t you have your trans replaced once already? I thought I saw that on here somewhere.

Yeah at 26k with Stock Turbo setup due to bearing howl due to underfill from El fomoco.

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[CraiMart]

Yeah at 26k with Stock Turbo setup due to bearing howl due to underfill from El fomoco.

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Sucks!! Hope the Clark holds up well! Do you just dump a full 2 liters in now?

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Sucks!! Hope the Clark holds up well! Do you just dump a full 2 liters in now?

Absolutely *

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