Help me understand alignment specs...

[Chris G]

I installed a set of Mountune springs a few weeks back and recently got around to getting it aligned when I had my car in for an oil change at the Ford dealer. As I suspected, toe was off so I'm glad I got it in.

One thing I noticed is that the dealer didn't try particularly hard to get the camber to match up front from left to right. In fact, they barely adjusted it because it was in spec per Ford. It's about a degree or so different on one side than the other. Toe is setup pretty well and is a closer match side to side. The car tracks straight and appears to drive great. Everything is within spec at the end of the day.

My main question is... does it matter much if camber is not exactly the same on each side? What about toe and caster?

My other question is... is front camber pretty adjustable from the factory? I know the rear isn't but was not sure about the front.

Any info would be helpful - just trying to learn more. Thank you all that reply.

 

[kjohn09e]

I want in on this for the info as well.

 

[dyn085]

Camber and caster have very little (if any) adjustments from the factory, and they won't have as much effect on normal everyday driving as toe will. The main thing you want in a non track-specific setup is minimal toe and a straight track. I wouldn't worry about camber/caster being identical.

 

[Chris G]

Safe to assume that if we want to adjust camber we should pick up some camber bolts?

 

[FatGuyInALittleCar]

Camber may be off left to right as part of the design of then suspension geometry that is meant to mitigate torque steer. As long as it's in spec, I think you're good.

 

[frankiefiesta]

Safe to assume that if we want to adjust camber we should pick up some camber bolts?

In my experience when it comes to lowering cars is yes.

 

[Chris G]

Camber may be off left to right as part of the design of then suspension geometry that is meant to mitigate torque steer. As long as it's in spec, I think you're good.

That thought crossed my mind as well. Same thing with road crowning and what not.

I may pick up some bolts down the road and re-align, but if it's in spec... I think I am ok. I'll keep an eye on it.

More info always welcome.

 

[dyn085]

I don't know if camber bolts are offered for the FiST. I would imagine so but just haven't looked to confirm. Either way, toe is what causes the car to jerk around with crowning, not camber. I got an alignment before moving for my FoST and had the toe set to zero so it handles the Portland-area road rather well, my FiST...not so much with the OEM alignment.

 

[SpooledUpST]

Like others have said, don't worry about individual numbers. They are negligible but pay attention on your alignment printout to the total toe and steer ahead angles. They should be as close to 0.00 as possible. I get that question a lot from customers when we do alignments and as long as you keep a regular 5k mile rotation and balance regimen you will be fine.

Also, I recommend buying into a lifetime alignment service like we offer at Firestone. Pay once and never pay again for as long as you own your car. Good at any store in the country so alignment checks and redos are no further cost. Furthermore, if you get suspension work done after which you will have to do an alignment no matter what, it costs nothing to get it sorted. I change oil every 5k miles and get balance/rotation/alignment recheck with it.

One last tidbit, if you have Bridgestone tires on, any Firestone should tend to offer you a rotation at no cost if you get an oil change through them. You can then ask them to charge you for a lifetime balance package and you can pick up the lifetime alignment service anytime.