I need some advice on what I should do to my Fiesta first and how to save money

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#1
Currently the car is completely stock (excluding performance tires), and I have been trying to develop a game plan for the 5 months ive had the car and ive gotten nowhere. The main reason is being low on money for the car and having a hard time budgeting everything(1k put away rn, extra 200ish every 2 weeks).

Currently on my list are exhaust(downpipe, cat, ect.), suspension, cosmetics(rims, tint), turbocharger, cold air intake, custom/"stage2" tune, brakes, and any other necessary engine upgrades.

Ive already decided to do cosmetics and turbocharger(at least after my exhaust) last.

>>> im wondering what i should do first, how to save money, and any recommendations, especially with the exhaust as thats what ive been looking into the most as of late.
 


SteveS

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#2
If the goal is not to waste money, then immediately throw out all ideas of changing the exhaust. It's been shown that no aftermarket exhaust improves the performance of the Fiesta ST. The stock exhaust is already optimized for performance. The only thing you gain with aftermarket exhaust is more noise.

If better performance is your goal, you also have to ask better performance for what reason? If you wish to compete in sanctioned events, be it autocross, HDPE, or whatever, you'll need to abide by class rules to avoid ending up in a category in which the Fiesta ST is uncompetitive.

If you have no particular reason to want to modify the car you might consider just not doing it. There are few directions you can go that won't end up in the big bucks category very quickly. The Fiesta ST came stock equipped with some of the best tires available--they were TW 140! So to maintain best handling you need to continue to get top quality summer tires. The RE050A is no longer available. If you are staying with the OEM 17" wheels, there are only a few choices that are even comparable. If budget is key, you would probably want Yokohama Advan Fleva V701 or Firestone Indy 500's or other UHP tires like the Kumho Ecsta Sport or BFG G-Force Phenom T/A. There's only one Max Performance Summer, the Michelin PS5. If you switch to a 16x7 wheel you can get the top street performance tire generally available, the Continental ECS02. These are all high performing street tires. You can go down the rabbit hole of track oriented tires, but these highly compromise normal street driving, particularly in terms of durability and wet performance.

In terms of increasing engine power, you can fairly inexpensively gain a little power with not much detriment by getting a Cobb Accessport and getting a tune. Some tuners are better than others and you can damage the engine or run afoul of the law with tunes so YMMV. Once you start tuning, you may find that the cooling capacity of the radiator isn't sufficient (though in Michigan maybe not), so if you do see higher temperatures then a radiator swap can be in order. Also as you go that route you may find that you want more intercooler capacity so that's a common swap. After that there are turbo changes, either a hybrid turbo or turbo swap. You can take the engine to as much as 300 hp but it will cost you and it most likely will give a shortened life to the engine.

Brakes as they come from Ford are as good as you'll need for fast road driving. Make sure you're getting the right performance pads as Ford has two grades. Brake maintenance is important, including regular fluid changes at 30,000 miles or more often. This is even more important for the longevity of the clutch slave cylinder. Track driving will result in heat problems with the brakes so upgrades there may be warranted or even inventing ductwork to bring more air to them.

Suspension-wise, it's hard to get better, safer handling than what the car comes with. You can get aftermarket coilovers and lower the car but that's going to change the appearance more than it improves any handling or ride. Likewise you can change swaybars and alter some characteristics of the handling. But you do have to be careful because some combinations of suspension modification can increase the possibility of rollover.
 


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#4
If you live in Michigan, I recommend going through the entire car and getting it surface shielded/fluid filmed. Get inside the door panels and hatch.

I highly recommend doing all fluids, particularly the transmission fluid if you don't know when it was changed.

If I had to drop the money again, I would replace all engine mounts to the softest non-OEM available. The rear motor mount is the best upgrade so far, making 1-2 shifts very smooth; however, my passenger motor mount died shortly afterwards. Probably due to the RMM no longer having as much give.
 


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#5
Get the best tires you can for how you intend to use it and if you spend a lot of time in it, maybe upgrade the speakers and sound insulation and keep the rest of the money in your pocket. Exhaust, shifter stuff, intakes etc don’t move the needle much. An Accessport and intercooler do if you’re looking for a bit of power. The suspension is already really good too.

It’s a really good car as-is.
 


Capri to ST

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#6
Get the best tires you can for how you intend to use it . An Accessport and intercooler do if you’re looking for a bit of power. The suspension is already really good too.

It’s a really good car as-is.
I agree with these statements, it's a great car, it doesn't need a lot of things to be changed. Drive it for a while, get used to it and see how you like it, you may decide you don't need to do anything to it. Then if you make any changes, do them slowly and one at a time so you can see what the impact of each one is.
I would particularly recommend not changing anything in the suspension, it's great how it is. The quick turn in and agile handling of the car are its primary assets.
When I buy a car that some smart engineers spent a lot of time thinking over the details of, as is the case with this one, I am reluctant to change things lightly.
 


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If it's pre-2016, I would look for 2016+ head unit for AA/CarPlay. I've done a bunch of upgrades, but if I just got a stock copy again, I would do that and that's about it. Maybe also the adjustable Focus headrests, because they allow me to sit more upgright and still be comfortable, but that depends on your preferred driving position.
 


Sam4

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#8
I'm sure the dogbone/rear motor mount needs replacing. or is that mine that needs attention?? I almost forgot - #1 o2 sensor cleans up your idle nicely (at 10 year/ high miles)
 


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#9
Some good advice in this thread. I haven't done many modifications to my car, but I can recommend a few that aren't too expensive and I believe play to enhancing the car's strengths:
- Traction bar - Improves torque steer significantly.
- Tires - The car is nimble and sensitive to good tires. Get good ones, I'd skip all season options.
- Short shifter.
- Pedal Spacer.
- Rear motor mount - Improves throttle response feel, shifter feel. Downside is vibration in cold weather.
 


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I found on a track night, I pushed so deep into the brakes that they actually line up perfectly for heel-toe - but anywhere else I am really wanting a spacer. What did you do for yours/recommend?
 


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I found on a track night, I pushed so deep into the brakes that they actually line up perfectly for heel-toe - but anywhere else I am really wanting a spacer. What did you do for yours/recommend?
Interesting. Unfortunately, the spacer I have isn't available anymore.
 


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#13
A lot of people (Myself included on my first FiST) use a 3d printed spacer (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1369818). I'd recommend using a filament like ABS or something heat-resistant but honestly even PLA will work. And if you end up thinking it's too big you can always print one of the shorter versions. I had a friend of mine print it on whatever color filament he had, and it worked fantastically. When I sold my FiST I didn't even remove it. Someone who bought a Kona Blue 2016 off Carvana has a free upgrade! (Granted it was probably $30 in parts)
 


Intuit

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Yeah leave the drivetrain and suspension alone.
Though frame flex may be considered a factor in the suspension, bracing should be a safer mod. (just account for rust impact potentials)
Never use a fuse tap to power anything other than an add-on relay. (this avoids placing extra load on wiring that wasn't engineered to handle it.)
Only replace parts that are TRULY bad or failing. Avoid remanufactured parts. Avoid remanufactured parts. Avoid remanufactured parts. Avoid remanufactured parts.
Keep the oil changed. Nothing wrong with sticky tires.
Pay special attention to rust prevention.
 


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#16
No one has mentioned a short shifter mod. This is something that affects your feel of the car EVERY time your drive it. So that's an inexpensive first. Next, an RMM. That too will make a noticeable difference, again inexpensively. Next up is a front tower brace. Once again, cheap, easy and effective. '

After those things the cost starts going up significantly. ... Springs, tune, wheels, all cost $$$.
 


Cneu

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#17
If it's pre-2016, I would look for 2016+ head unit for AA/CarPlay. I've done a bunch of upgrades, but if I just got a stock copy again, I would do that and that's about it. Maybe also the adjustable Focus headrests, because they allow me to sit more upgright and still be comfortable, but that depends on your preferred driving position.
Echoing this. I upgraded my sync to 3 and it's the best thing I did to the car. You can get the head units for ~$700 from china. It's a really simple upgrade, takes about 20-30 minutes.

Some of our engines seem to have overheating issues. If yours is one of them I would recommend a 3 pass or 3 stage radiator upgrade. Some folks also report better MPG after upgrading their rad. It's a simple enough upgrade. I did mine in under an hour without a hoist or vacuum system.

I agree with the "leave most things alone" sentiment. Little upgrades like heel/toe spacer on the pedal, short shifter, etc are all fun. Motor mounts can be a decent little upgrade, but not really a huge deal. Symposer delete is worth doing.

I have the lil window things. I dont like how they look but I do like the function. Being able to have my windows down a few inches without water getting in, and reduced air noise, is really nice. I can also leave my windows cracked without anyone seeing.

A cobb unit is always fun. If you go that route a larger intercooler is probably a decent idea. I'm sure others can comment more on that.

But you can dump thousands into the suspension and only see marginal gains. Same with the exhaust. If I cared enough I would go back to a stock exhaust. I believe the stock airbox is already really good so upgrading that isn't necessary, someone correct me if I'm wrong on that. This car is already tuned really well. That's what makes the FiST so great is you just kind of set it and forget it. Maintain the car and it'll always be a super fun lil street legal go-kart.

Spend money on tires(and brakes). My number one issue with this car is it's just too powerful for FWD. I can break loose at 40mph like it's nothing on cheap tires. It's dangerous and annoying, lol.
 


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Intuit

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Maybe also the adjustable Focus headrests, because they allow me to sit more upgright and still be comfortable
Thanks for the reminder. I like a straight-back too. The headrests are annoyingly designed around a recliner position so we end up like...
1764474683255.png
...instead of ...
1764474726270.png
I guess the junkyards are the only source for these?
 


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