Loss of Power / no power, "chugging" a little above idle

[chrisj]

Hello,

I have a 2014 Ford Fiesta ST (95k miles but oil changed religiously and not driven hard at all) that has power issues, issues and description as follows
- Car started to have loss of boost at top end of power band for a few months
- Loss of power progressively got worse and happened earlier in the power band over a few months as I was gentle on driving and thinking it was the turbo (specifically the waste gate)
- No engine light and computer code said misfire in cylinder 4, but I didn't think this was related
- I changed the boost solenoid and car started to drive better but still had issues - there was improvements though, which again made me think something in the turbo was wearing out, wastegate or bov module
- I had complete power loss and it drives a little above idle and sounds like compression is being loss - has a flapping noise - I limped the last 200 yards to get home
- I put a new turbo on it and it did not fix the problem, still behaves exactly the same -- new turbo was complete OE unit with boost solenoid, wg actuator, and bov module

Does anyone know what is wrong with it? No engine light coming on, but I will check the computer codes when able. If this was a carb engine without all the electronics I would say it is a compression issue, almost like driving a 4 cylinder engine with 3 spark plugs pulled out, again, it does not have rpm much above idle (chugs/limps) and it stalled when I was trying to get back up on ramps after installing the new turbo. Is there a mechanical module that controls the valves that is not on the turbo (as mine is new), based on symptoms it seems like a mechanical failure due to boost / pressure rather than an pure electronic failure (and currently is no computer error codes).

Thanks in advance and any help is much appreciated.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

A compression check is in order to verify the health of the engine. Do this and report back!

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[Rocketst]

It could be that your driving on 1 spark plug... Check your coils for noticable cuts in the insulation. Check to verify the springs are in the coils too. Check for proper gapping on your spark plugs.

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[chrisj]

The codes are "P219A", per google this is air fuel ratio error, and "P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected"

Compression - I need to get a compression gauge and I am guessing it will take a deep-well attachment as the changing of spark plugs was tight with only one of my sockets would work, thank you TyphoonFiST

Spark plugs, I changed the spark plugs a year ago, confirmed gaps and car was running fine, the issue progressed and is now all the time but I will double check per your above, thank you Rocketst

... since it was a power/boost loss, to total loss, have any of you had issues with the electronic throttle body, I hate to chase parts again like I did the replacement of the turbo, but is there a way I can diagnose the e throttle body or other air/fuel mixture parts?

thanks again, much appreciated

 

[chrisj]

p0304 cylinder 4 , in this situation , i would take coil 4 out and swap out into cylinder one and if misfire is now in one . bad coil.
easy to eliminate coil issue . which in turn could be setting off other code .good place to start
curious , how old is your battery also ?
higher miles , Cam bucket worn ? its been known not to throw a check engine light

Thanks blkhatchst

I have a new coil already ordered I planned on putting in. I think I have changed the battery once since owning it purchased after it already had 40k miles on it -- it should be ok. The cam bucket looks easy enough to change out per online videos, do symptoms of a cam bucket being worn throw all power? -- taking into account electronics in modern engine can throw off everything

The big thing is I was certain it was turbo wastegate or blowoff valve issue as it would build pressure and then cut power (I was wrong), current state is it almost sounds like a flapping noise with no power at all, crawling / not driveable

 

[Ford ST]

Compression test compression test.
Don't waste another cent on a part get a compression tester.

To me it sounds like you could have a blown engine. A compression test will let you know.





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[scooter123]

Don't have anything specific to contribute so let's just review the basics. I'll also note that I'm a carb expert and a complete newbie to fuel injection. So don't ask me about specific procedures like cleaning the MAF.

A gasoline engine needs 3 things to make power, Spark, Fuel, and Air.

To me a chugging and misfire indicates that Spark may be missing on cylinder #4. Have someone give the engine a bit of gas when it's running while you smell the exhaust. If you smell gasoline in the exhaust that is an indication of missing spark (or a severe over rich condition). An obvious solution could be a new Coil on the # 4 Cylinder. However at 94K miles I would consider it wise to replace all 4 coils even if only one has failed. Because it's a sure bet that the other 3 coils are headed in the same direction as #4. As for the spark plugs, look at all 4 when you do the coils, if they look questionable replace all 4.

Next up is Air. Obviously take a good long look at the Air Filter. However keep in mind that the MAF and Throttle Body are in the air stream and the MAF has a direct effect on the air fuel ratios. I'll also note that oil and gauze air filters can contaminate the MAF with oil from an over oiled filter. So consider cleaning the MAF as a must do item.

Final item is Fuel. With a rich mixture and chugging that could be a fuel issue you shouldn't have any issues with the fuel supply or filter(s). However issues with the fuel metering can be a major cause for power loss. This means that both O2 sensors need to be confirmed as working properly and the function of the throttle body should be looked at. As for the MAF, start with cleaning and consider replacement if Spark checks as 100% good.

 

[Ford ST]

Our cars are tuned off the map sensor the maf sensor basically just works as a intake temperature sensor that's it.
The maf sensors could be thrown into mud and it wouldn't really matter on these vehicles.

So why do we have a maf sensor well one reason the overseas cars are tuned off of it. The American cars are tuned off the map sensor. It's actually the whole reason why we can't use tunes from other countries.

Throwing parts at a car without doing any type of diagnostic work is not how you work on a vehicle.
I'm going to say it 10,000 times compression test the darn engine.


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[Rocketst]

The codes are "P219A", per google this is air fuel ratio error, and "P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected"

Compression - I need to get a compression gauge and I am guessing it will take a deep-well attachment as the changing of spark plugs was tight with only one of my sockets would work, thank you TyphoonFiST

Spark plugs, I changed the spark plugs a year ago, confirmed gaps and car was running fine, the issue progressed and is now all the time but I will double check per your above, thank you Rocketst

... since it was a power/boost loss, to total loss, have any of you had issues with the electronic throttle body, I hate to chase parts again like I did the replacement of the turbo, but is there a way I can diagnose the e throttle body or other air/fuel mixture parts?

thanks again, much appreciated

Run to AutoZone and grab a compression tester rental. They will refund you the cost of the tool upon return. It will have everything you need to do the test. Pull the fuel fuse and start the car testing each cylinder individually. Tell us your results. Also, you can recalibrate the electronic throttle body by using your accessport. Someone remind me of the name the task is called, delete memory? Anyways after that's done, turn the car on idle the car for 15 mins do not touch the throttle. After 15 mins your tb is recalibrated.

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[Rocketst]

Anytime you pull the battery and the capacitors are drained this recalibration needs to be done. I have also been told by ford that each time the capacitors are drained the crankshaft position sensor needs to be recalibrated too. Which was an actual issue I had, but I put in a new motor so I'm wondering how much this contributed to it as well.

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[Rocketst]

I'm also thinking, if it's isolated to cyl 4.... Swap over coils to cyl 4 and do a test to see if it fixes it. Swap to from a known good cyl but also swap injectors. Their fairly easy to get to and the avg joe should be able to take them out with little issue. Swap one injector over from a known good and see if that does anything. This will save you a ton of money on parts doing things this way. If the code moves cyls you know the part you just moved is bad. Just change 1 part at a time though so you know what is bad.

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[Rocketst]

Also most misfire codes pop after 2 test drives after a kam reset and I think you need to drive at least 20 miles. So keep this in mind.

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[Rocketst]

Another thing..... Did you or ford change that turbo.... You may have connected the solenoid up incorrectly. Sorry all of this stuff is coming to me in pieces. I'm walking myself through how I'd work through this on my car. Stratified has a good write up and diagram on how to connect the solenoid. Refer to this and double check your connections. If you connected it incorrectly it would explain the problem with boost.

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[Rocketst]

Okay one last think and I'll leave you alone.... Check your wiring harnesses to, o2 sensors, cam sensors, crankshaft position sensor (you'll need to remove the belt guard for this 2 t25 bolts hold this on) and maf and map sensor wires. Check to see if anything is knicked. I had an issue where my belt at my wire harness to my solenoid and can't remember what problem I was having but it took me a min to find it. You being in there, you could have accidently not placed it in the right location causing a wire or 2 to get knicked.

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[chrisj]

Another thing..... Did you or ford change that turbo.... You may have connected the solenoid up incorrectly. Sorry all of this stuff is coming to me in pieces. I'm walking myself through how I'd work through this on my car. Stratified has a good write up and diagram on how to connect the solenoid. Refer to this and double check your connections. If you connected it incorrectly it would explain the problem with boost.

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I put the new turbo on with no improvement. I will check the lines and wires.

 

[chrisj]

Like all the others said , check your compression , has there been an oil catch can on the car ? possible carbon build up ! ? could also lead to compression issue.
bore scope to check , definitely a bunch of things to check.

It'll take me some time but I will compression check it, I do not have an accessport, I have a cheap-o computer code reader. I will research youtube of compression procedure for FiST. I have done it when I was 15 years old on a carb engine in the 90's.

 

[chrisj]

(2) No throttle input and stalling in idle - no codes | Fiesta ST Forum
I had this saved , mine is a 15 , issue to earlier years 14/15
could be worth a read .
also :P219A - Ford Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Definition, Causes and Diagnosis (dtcdecode.com)

I will take a read, thank you!

 

[TyphoonFiST]

I will take a read, thank you!

Specifically Post#41 ...But read the whole THREAD* keep us up to date

 

[PunkST]

One thing it could be, and i have only had the issue creep up on my wife's gti. Is you could have a fried injector. If it sticks open its just hosing fuel in that cylinder. Easy test is to see if the oil smells like gas on the dipstick. Swapping a coil and plug to see if the misfire moves is part two of that test.

 

[Lefty]

Check the purge valve. I had the same problems with mine. It would also feel like you have more power at say 90% throttle than full throttle at any rpm range. I have to replace mine again too. It gives you less throttle response at idle with a little lugging. It will make you stall the car every once in a while too.