Mushy brake pedal...

maestromaestro

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#1
Let's just say - hypothetically - that I was messing with the brakes and let the brake fluid go a tad lower than I should have perhaps. I have bled all the calipers using the 2-person method, and the fluid is coming out solidly, no bubbles or anything. If I let the master cylinder bleed out (again, hypothetically...) - what would be the symptoms? The pedal stays soft even if pumped a few times - but it does build enough pressure so when I loosen the bleeders, the fluid squirts out into the hose. Getting frustrated over here...
 


CanadianGuy

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#2
If there is air you will need to bleed again. That said when I did my brake lines it did feel mushy for a few days as the system had no pressure built up. If you know there is no air. Top up the reservoir and drive carefully for a few days. If it was like mine it will become less mushy within a few drives. Good luck.
 


OP
maestromaestro

maestromaestro

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Thread Starter #3
This is a new experience for me - any time in the past I flushed or bled the brakes, the pedal was firm once I was done. This time I had the calipers off, brake lines disconnected. So, if there was air in the MC, would it manifest as bubbles still? I am not seeing any.
 


CanadianGuy

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#4
This is a new experience for me - any time in the past I flushed or bled the brakes, the pedal was firm once I was done. This time I had the calipers off, brake lines disconnected. So, if there was air in the MC, would it manifest as bubbles still? I am not seeing any.
Yes it would but you would need to flush out the whole system with 1 full bottle to get that out. The bubbles would not appear right away. Could try the one closest to the master. And flush it out. But like I said I had the same when I changed brake lines and it was ultra careful not letting air in.
 


CanadianGuy

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#5
I say if you have extra fluid. Drive around a bit using the brakes to move the fluid around. Then redo the flush.
 


OP
maestromaestro

maestromaestro

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Thread Starter #6
No bubbles were visible. Still, this is a new thing for me - not quite sure why the pressure would build up from driving and braking. The calipers were rebuilt, but I'd think that if there was something with the pressure seals, it would show up as leaks, and there were none.
 


CanadianGuy

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No bubbles were visible. Still, this is a new thing for me - not quite sure why the pressure would build up from driving and braking. The calipers were rebuilt, but I'd think that if there was something with the pressure seals, it would show up as leaks, and there were none.
If air if may get trapped at a high point hence the drive around and re bleed or the air may go back into the reservoir . I know it sound odd just relaying my experience.
 


OP
maestromaestro

maestromaestro

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Thread Starter #8
If air if may get trapped at a high point hence the drive around and re bleed or the air may go back into the reservoir . I know it sound odd just relaying my experience.
No, I follow. Let me see what develops.
 


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#9
ive read that after bleeding either of the rear calipers, pull up on the e-brake 5 times and then crack the bleeder again for both left and right rear calipers. try brake bleeding again and go for some panic stops in a safe place to get your abs working in case there's some residual air in the system.
 


PunkST

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#10
Its gotta be air in the distribution block for abs. Without using expensive tools only way to get it out is to trigger the abs. You may have to do this a couple times and add fluid / bleed the lines after.
 


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#11
I read elsewhere that Forscan had a Beta version of the ABS bleeding / activation / functioning. Not sure if it’s still available.
 


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