I just bought this car last week and I been looking it. I noticed that it's been idling at 1000rpm all the time so I pulled the oil cap and it's blowing out like exhaust on a car....the cap will dance and bounce around but it almost does blow off. I checked all the hoses and I can't find any splits in anything and there is no check engine light. I just went through this nightmare with my Volvo and I'm scared because I'm reading about piston rings. The car has 92k miles on it and it's been well taken care of. What can I do y'all, I'm freaking out. Thanks for any help.
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Need help guys
- Thread starter BrianG
- Start date
Thread Starter
#7
No there is no smoke coming out. The thought process is at idle around 1000 I was thinking I had a intake leak somewhere and I just opened the oil cap to see if the pcv system was operating properly and by opening the oil cap while the engine is running should change the idle so I opened it and noticed positive pressure coming out. I wanted to make sure the oil smell I smelled on a hard stage 3 pull wasn't excessive crankcase pressure blowing an oil seal out.
- If you don't have at least 3 bars showing on the engine temp indicator the engine will hold the idle at 1000 RPM. Note, 4 bars indicates an engine temperature of 195 degrees F and that is the temperature where this engine operates at it's highest Efficiency. This means you get the best fuel economy and the highest Horsepower.
- PCV translates as Positive Crankcase Ventilation. I interpret this means that there is a low level of positive pressure in the crankcase to assist in retaining oil in the Oil Control Ring on each piston. I will also note if a shop does an oil change and forgets to put that cap back on the engine you may stop 200 miles down the road and smell oil smoke from the front of the car. Further investigation will reveal that the valve cover is saturated with oil along with the Hood, intake manifold, and exhaust manifold. Ended up using paper towels soaked with gasoline to clean up the area around the oil filler so I could duct tape it closed. Then took the car behind the store and hosed as much as I could off the exhaust manifold. BTW car was a 1976 Honda Civic and this was in 1979 so cell phones didn't exist.
- Check the oil level and top it off to the Full line. BTW, these cars are a PITA to get a good read on the oil level because of the poor fit between the tube and dipstick, it's way to close to the tube. You need to take out the dipstick multiple times while drying it off each dip. About 5 times will have the dipstick come out dry and showing exactly where the oil level is. Next top the oil level up so it's at the full line. Yeah, lots more fun doing the dip and dry over and over. Then insert the dip stick and insure it's all the way in and snug. Then just drive the car while checking the oil level at 500 miles, then 1000 miles and then every 1000 miles until you see it's down to the fill line or you have more than 5000 miles on the car. With the engine in good condition these cars are very serious Oil Misers. I'm coming up on 65,000 miles on mine and 300 miles short of it's 5000 mile oil change and it still shows Full.
- If you aren't burning a lot of oil, say one quart every 1500 miles there is no needed to get all worked up. If it's north of 3000 miles then the engine is in good shape.
- You didn't mention what model year your car is. This is important because the Service Life of the Timing Belt on your engine is 10 years. If that timing belt fails when the engine is running you will need to purchase a new engine. Yeah, it's not something you want to scrimp on. Point here is that if you are close to that 10 year mark, or over it, get that Timing Belt Changed. Also note that the main drive pulley is NOT keyed to the crankshaft and to change that belt by the book means rotating the engine to Top Dead Center and using special locking tools purchase from a Ford dealer to lock both camshafts and the crankshaft in place. In addition you will have to replace the Crankshaft bolt and the friction disks that go with it because these are One Time Use only parts. Good news is that if you have the tools and time to do this yourself it can be done and there is a lot of help here to provide guidance if you get "stuck". Bad news for me is that at 71 years of age I just don't have the dexterity, hand strength, and patience to take on a task like this and I expect that a Timing Belt from a Ford dealer will be well north of 500 dollars.
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