Newbie - First Coilover Install Questions

[awwjayzin]

Hey guys, I bought a used 2015 FiST that had Dynamic Pro Gravel Rally Coilovers installed and I'm replacing them with Bilstein 14 PSS coilovers that I bought secondhand from a fellow forum member (thanks Fistig).

It's my first time installing coilovers, so I'm following instructions from YT videos and some old forum threads. It's not bad so far. I just want to double check on some things. See picture:

1. yellow circle - is this an adjustable sway bar end link? Previous owner didn't mention he had aftermarket ones installed. I had to extend it so the top bolt would go through the opening of the coilover. I don't think I did this right... how should I address this? Make the top even with the bottom and screw the nuts closer to the middle of the sway bar end link?
   • Prior to installation, I do notice some creaking when driving. Could it be the sway bar end link? Can they be greased or the only solution would be to replace them with new ones?
2. red circles - these coilovers don't have somewhere for the brake line to clipped on. Instead, I saw these screw threads. Is there something sold separately, like a bracket?
3. I haven't completed installation, but I'm not sure what to adjust the spring or preload to (with the spanner wrench). I thought they were plug and play, but they're set differently on both sides, so... not sure what to do there. I've never drove stock height, so I'd like to start with there or lower (lowered, but enough to scrape over speed bumps/etc.). Is it more trial and error with setting it or is there a more precise way to do it?

 

[the duke]

1) Yes, those are aftermarket adjustable endlinks. When installing stock damper units I just jacked the lower control arm to raise the strut body to line up the bracket with the bolt. You can do it your way but you’ll have to readjust the sway bar endlink, which will adjust tension etc.

2) OEM are bolted to flanges/brackets which you don’t have. You might be able to push the line with the integrated metal flat to line up and use a bolt over that. I think you’re SOL and might have to zip tie. You also technically missing the location for the damper box.

3) adjusting height should be done by rotating the lower spring perch/collar.

See here
https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/bilstein-b14-pss-coilovers-for-fiesta-st.2641/

 

[awwjayzin]

Zip ties were my last resort option but guess I have no choice. Poop. Did a quick google search and you're right about the damper box, but looks like it's not really necessary?

 

[the duke]

Zip ties were my last resort option but guess I have no choice. Poop. Did a quick google search and you're right about the damper box, but looks like it's not really necessary?

It’s a mass damper to tune a resonance frequency. What frequency ford intends to tune out is unclear. But yes, no one has noticed any adverse effects by ditching it.

 

[D1JL]

The proper adjustment of a front sway bar should be as follows:

After the ride height is set and with the full weight of the car on the wheels.
The sway bar should have a +5 degree up angle.

If you are corner balancing the car, minor adjustments can be made with end links.

 

[awwjayzin]

I was working on the rear springs by removing the Yellow Speeds and I'm not sure how to get the springs out. Looks like for the yellow speeds, the spring adjuster is seated against the lower arm and bolted from below. I removed the bolt so I could get the spring adjuster out, but it's just not budging...

Does this mean I need to get a spring compressor? Any recommendations there? And when I install the Bilstein B14 rear springs, I'll need to get the OEM spring seats to seat the bottom?

I have foam pads that are supposed to go on top, but if the adjuster is on top, then can I still use the foam pads?

 

[the duke]

You should remove the shock bolts (lower) and drop the entire torsion beam. The springs should then fallout out as this allows the torsion bar to drop far enough.

 

[awwjayzin]

You should remove the shock bolts (lower) and drop the entire torsion beam. The springs should then fallout out as this allows the torsion bar to drop far enough.

Ok, thanks. I’ll try that.

Does anyone know if it’s ok to put the spring pad on top of the adjuster, against the body?