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No boost?

Rhinopolis

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#1
Hello,

I am new to this forum and have had my 2015 FiST new for a little over one month. This is my 1st turbo, and I use it as a future track car but mainly for fun on the weekends.

The car has 630 miles on it and I purchased a COBB FMIC with their charge pipe kit, and the Accessport. I installed the FMIC kit in my garage (I have worked on many cars/bikes over the years), and on my 1st test run (stock tune) I was not getting any boost. I kept the rpms down below 3200 once I noticed no boost, and I immediately turn around and drove back home. I might have traveled 3 miles in total like this.

Everything was tightened down properly, and I have not gotten back under the car yet to review my connections again. As this is my 1st turbo, I wanted input from more experienced people as to what I need to check for. There were no warning lights, and I cannot hear any audible hissing or other indicators that there is a problem. Thanks in advance!

Ryan
 


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#2
Hmm. That's rather an odd happening. Obviously the car is breathing as it is running, and can make at least 3200 rpm and more before you realized your car was having an issue.

So somewhere in the chain there has to be a loss. Definitely revisit your piping, and drive around with the windows down and hear for any abnormal hissing or the like. I had a small issue with loose factory clamps at the throttle body last evening and the cue was a lack of power and slow building boost. Tightened em up and hello torque steer.

One other crucial one to check is the charge pipe to turbo coupler. The smaller of the two ends that goes on the turbo has a clamp that takes forever to tighten and may give the perception of being secure when it may in fact not be.

Hope that helps.

Also, as an edit, make sure you aren't on the economy map.
 


dyn085

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#3
Hit the cancel/resume switch on your cruise control with cruise off and then if your tach jumps to 2 hit the decel button for it to select 1. If it's on 1 hit the accel button for it to go to 2.
 


BoostBumps

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#4
Hello,

...I purchased a COBB FMIC with their charge pipe kit, and the Accessport. I installed the FMIC kit in my garage (I have worked on many cars/bikes over the years), and on my 1st test run (stock tune) I was not getting any boost. I kept the rpms down below 3200 once I noticed no boost, and I immediately turn around and drove back home. I might have traveled 3 miles in total like this.

Everything was tightened down properly, and I have not gotten back under the car yet to review my connections again. As this is my 1st turbo, I wanted input from more experienced people as to what I need to check for. There were no warning lights, and I cannot hear any audible hissing or other indicators that there is a problem. Thanks in advance!

Ryan
Hi Ryan..

Since you state in your original post that you are not seeing any boost after installing the new FMIC and hard pipes...

"on my 1st test run (stock tune) I was not getting any boost"

I would encourage you to re-inspect all hose clamps (boost and vacuum) once again....Even all the hose clamps you hadn't touched such as throttle body hose clamps...A common compliant reported by some members in the past was that they found that some hose clamps were actually loose from the factory...

btw...The stock tune (i.e. "Stage 0") that comes loaded in AP does not have a "slot 2" feature in this base map for ECO/Low boost selection as the other Stg 1,2,& 3 OTS maps have...

good luck and hope you find the prob..
 


dyn085

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#5
Yeah, I pretty clearly breezed over that entire post. :facepalm:

If you're not hearing any audible sounds of leaks, the first thing I would check is the MAP sensor on the cold-side charge pipe.
 


OP
Rhinopolis

Rhinopolis

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Thread Starter #6
Yeah, I pretty clearly breezed over that entire post. :facepalm:

If you're not hearing any audible sounds of leaks, the first thing I would check is the MAP sensor on the cold-side charge pipe.
No worries and I was not very clear, as I haven't locked the AP to my car yet or done anything with it other than register that device to my name and email address.

Since I'm admittedly a turbo newbie, I was panicked at 1st thinking that maybe I damaged something? I was telling myself that if I damaged something, wouldn't a sensor warning light go off?

Unfortunately I'm too busy today to get back under the car and remove the nose again, and I decided to see what all advice I would get from the forum before I proceeded. Luckily this is a 2cd car, and it sits in my garage until I decide to mess with it again. Probably late Friday afternoon and most definitely early on this coming Saturday.

Thank you to all who have replied and please keep throwing any relevant suggestions at me. Thanks again!

Ryan
 


dyn085

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#7
I doubt that you would have damaged anything, these cars are pretty protected in situations like that.

As for your MAP sensor, you can look into your engine bay from the top and see if it's connected-


That's the electrical connector in the center of the screen, just to the right of the green clip. For reference, you're looking straight down in-between the radiator fan and engine, towards the drivers-side of center.
 


rodmoe

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#9
Ummm the fiesta st map sensor is on top of the intake manifold under the plastic cover to the passengers side of the intake . That sensor in the hotside charge pipe is the Tip (throttle inlet pressure) and charge air temp are one sensor called a tmap which is on the charge pipe
 


OP
Rhinopolis

Rhinopolis

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Thread Starter #10
How tightly do I need to clamp down on to the silicon hoses that connect to the COBB hard charge pipes? I snugged the supplied clamps so tightly that I was afraid that I would damage something. I'm truly at a loss for why no boost?

My buddy is surprised that I don't hear any weird hissing noises considering that I have such a severe drop in boost. Could this be an indicator of something else?

Btw, I checked both the MAF sensor (top side) and the sensor bottom side that dyn085 showed in a picture. Those are both on snug. I'll get under the car again soon, but how tight to tighten down those darn clamps?
 


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#11
I used a little 1/4 impact until they wouldn't budge. Basically as tight as one can possibly go. When you romp on it, do you see zero positive manifold pressure? Any boost at all? Maybe marry your AP and pull up some gauges so we can get some numbers on the table and look at what the car is producing.
 


rodmoe

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#12
MAF sensor is in the air cleaner air tube MAP is on top of manifold but as long as they tight it's all good . Most times as long as you get a bit of squeeze on the hose that the clamp presses the hose out tween the band it should be good, you got all of them checked then you should be ok on that front . I forget how many clamps there are off hand like 7 or maybe more with the sound symposer ..
 


CanadianGuy

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#13
As said before check all the hoses not just the fmic. You may have inadvertently pulled a hose off somewhere in the loop. Usually you hear a hiss when there is a leak but if there is no connection the is no pressure and no sound. Only other tbough i have is bad fmic or something blocking air in the fmic.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 


OP
Rhinopolis

Rhinopolis

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Thread Starter #14
As said before check all the hoses not just the fmic. You may have inadvertently pulled a hose off somewhere in the loop. Usually you hear a hiss when there is a leak but if there is no connection the is no pressure and no sound. Only other tbough i have is bad fmic or something blocking air in the fmic.

Good luck and keep us posted.
I'll keep the thread updated once I get back out there on Friday or Saturday, and bevause I would like to educate myself, what would cause a brand new FMIC to be "bad"? I'm fairly positive that nothing was trapped inside it (as I removed the end caps before installing and it was clean inside), and hopefully a bad FMIC is not the case because how would I test that!?
 


CanadianGuy

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#15
When I say bad FMIC I means blocked or a hole in it. Again the one question asked buy opusmonday is very relevant how are you determining no boost? Via the Accessport? The accessport would be best as it could show if there is some low boost.

Couple of videos on how to test for leaks.
[video=youtube;atretf9u-Mc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atretf9u-Mc[/video]
[video=youtube;Z3HmH86CCXE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3HmH86CCXE[/video]
 


OP
Rhinopolis

Rhinopolis

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Thread Starter #16
^ Great point and one that I planned on measuring (boost pressure via AP).

* Will I harm my car by driving to test for low boost while utilizing the AP? When I drove yesterday and as soon I noticed low/no boost, I did not see any CELS or any other indicators that there were any major problems. *

Thanks,

Ryan
 


dyn085

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#17
Go incrementally and you shouldn't have any issues. When you initially marry the AP3 to your car select the stage 2 tune, and once everything is done verify you're on map slot 2, which won't allow more than sporting pressure because it's the eco tune. Monitor your AFR and boost on the gauges, and you can datalog it if you would like.

You should see negative boost pressure under light driving, and in third gear I would increase load and watch for positive pressure that should top out between 5-6 psi iirc. If you don't see any positive pressure and you've datalogged it then upload the datalog to datazap.me and share it with us so that we can get a better idea of what is going on.

If you see positive pressure then switch to map 1 and see if you have full-boost-there's always a possibility that the system just needed reset. Once the car is warmed up you should read -9.5 psi or less pressure at idle if you have a good seal. If you're reading higher (-9 or above) then you probably have a leak.
 


OP
Rhinopolis

Rhinopolis

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Thread Starter #18
^ Thank you for taking the time to explain with detail
 


OP
Rhinopolis

Rhinopolis

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Thread Starter #19
Thank you very much for all the great advice, and I most definitey heard the leak this time. It sounds like it is coming from the intake charge pipe where it connects to the FMIC, and I suspected that connection all along anyway because I did not like the angle of the charge pipe. datazap.me is fantastic, and please see the logs. I uploaded a stage 1 91 octane and set the map slot to 2



http://www.datazap.me/u/rhinopolis/log-1433292928?log=0&data=8

Thanks again and please share your thoughts via my datalog above
 


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#20
Wild. Love the boost plot. It's like it was trying it's little heart out to make positive pressure but the big bad leak had other plans.
 




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