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Redrilling Enkie RPF1s

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Wildomar
#1
Anybody ever throughout about, or looked into having Enkie RPF1s just drilled to the 4x108 bolt pattern? I mean you could get a 17X7 with a 43mm offset and a 4x100 bolt pattern, and have a second set of holes machined in between the original ones. Seems simple enough. Thoughts?
 


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Location
Las Vegas
#2
Anybody ever throughout about, or looked into having Enkie RPF1s just drilled to the 4x108 bolt pattern? I mean you could get a 17X7 with a 43mm offset and a 4x100 bolt pattern, and have a second set of holes machined in between the original ones. Seems simple enough. Thoughts?
I would rather Redrill the Hubs then the wheels just because IMO wheels with multiple patterns just doesnt look good. But I thought about redrilling the RPF1s also...
 


RAAMaudio

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#3
Some wheels cannot be redrilled and if you do then damage one, have to get one and have it done and wait for it.

It is cheap to get the hubs bored to 4x100, I did it months ago, and the rotors and I happen to have a set of rotors with 293 miles on them already drilled.

Then you can get a ton of different wheels. I have 15x9, 13 lb, roll formed(like RPF1) that cost just $126 each, Konig Dial in, they make a 12 lb 8" wide one as well and many others in 15 available. You can get RPF1 in 4x100, 16x8 that would fit as well. I have Konig Feathers in 17x7, 4x100, +42 I think, 16.8 lbs, cost me $105 each and they are very nice wheels, look great, strong, lite, easy to get.

Drill the hubs and rotors, rears hardly ever need replaced, get a spare set of fronts, good to go for a very long time.
 


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1
Location
Pleasanton
#4
Some wheels cannot be redrilled and if you do then damage one, have to get one and have it done and wait for it.

It is cheap to get the hubs bored to 4x100, I did it months ago, and the rotors and I happen to have a set of rotors with 293 miles on them already drilled.

Then you can get a ton of different wheels. I have 15x9, 13 lb, roll formed(like RPF1) that cost just $126 each, Konig Dial in, they make a 12 lb 8" wide one as well and many others in 15 available. You can get RPF1 in 4x100, 16x8 that would fit as well. I have Konig Feathers in 17x7, 4x100, +42 I think, 16.8 lbs, cost me $105 each and they are very nice wheels, look great, strong, lite, easy to get.

Drill the hubs and rotors, rears hardly ever need replaced, get a spare set of fronts, good to go for a very long time.
/\ This is a better choice for many reasons. Don't drill the rims out.
 


OP
R
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Location
Wildomar
Thread Starter #5
It cost around $50 a wheel, and it takes maybe a day. I'm just not sure it can be done to the RPF1s. Many wheels come with two sets of bolt holes. If you damage a wheel, most of the time its gonna take a few days to get a replacement wheel, what's one more? I can see maybe if you raced your car and needed 3 sets of wheels, but for everybody just looking for 1 set of wheels, I think it's completely reasonable.
 


RAAMaudio

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#6
I do not think they can be redrilled, I was looking into them but also many other wheels at the time, I have owned quite a few sets of them on other cars as those and the NTO3 are some of my favorite wheels.

Spending $200 to get one set done when you can spend less and get the hubs bored and then get a huge selection of wheels, especially for those that want or need more than one set and for those that like to change wheels once in awhile is just a better way to go.

Of course if a person is only going for one set and they can only get them one way and are not the type to want, need or like to change wheels....drilling one set is certainly viable.

Sometimes such things are not considered so just making sure it is known, and it is a safe and low cost way to have more options:)
 


razorlab

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#7
RAAM, since you have changed the hubs, do you have to press out the bearings or do the hubs just slide in/out after taking the castle nut off?
 


RAAMaudio

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#8
I pressed out the hubs but if somebody had the right setup on there milling machine they could probably leave them in.

I pulled the bearing races off the hubs as well just to ensure they did not get bumped and damaged but they did not have to come off.

I paid to have the hubs and rotors drilled but realized when I was putting it all back together I could of just drilled the rotors myself as they are hub centric and the bolt holes are bigger than the studs so they do not have to be exactly perfect anyway. That said, just getting the hubs bored will work for those considering this option and when new rotors are needed later on just drill them at home or work....

I happen to know of a set of rotors that need a new home, will work on 4x108 or 4x100;)

--------------

I had to press the rears out a second time to swap to ARP studs but had the rear apart working on brake caliper mounts so it was not a big deal, I still have to redo the fronts.
 


RAAMaudio

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#10
Here is where you can go to get the hubs bored, he can ship brand new hubs and if you want it more bolt on than that, new bearing and knuckles all assembled.

Any decent shop with a bench press can just swap the new hubs to your knuckles and bearings though.

If you have a drill press you can drill your own rotors but if able to I do have mine for sale and barely used, I can ship to Canada and I think they will fit a flat rate priority box.
 




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