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FS Reusable Lower Front Strut Bolt Sets (Class 12.9)

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Dialcaliper

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So I have finally located a set of high-strength Class 12.9 bolts, nuts and locking washers that can replace the factory "disposable" stretch bolts that are used for attaching the front struts to the hub at the bottom.

Because I had to buy a whole batch and have them shipped from Australia at significant expense in order to source them, I have a limited number of extra sets that I'm offering up for sale to recoup some of the cost. Yes, the date on the photo is from June, but for safety reasons, I decided to wait until I had actually installed and tested driving with them on the car before offering them to other people.

All items have the correct corrosion resistant Zinc Flake Coating (Aka Dacromet/Geomet/Delta-Protekt) just like the factory bolts, which means they will last just as well or better than the factory bolts, and won't rust or corrode like standard zinc or zinc chromate plated fasteners.

Bolts are a bit long (80mm), so they need to be installed with the heads towards the front of the car on both sides so the extended threads don't touch the the brake lines. The alternative was 55mm, which was a smidge too short with the lockwashers. The factory bolts oddly specify that the bolts on right and left of the car are installed differently, but this is not a problem, nor are the fact they are fully threaded (strut mount is a clamp joint so that alignment does not shift and the bolt is not loaded in shear). Do not cut the bolts short or you will compromise the corrosion resistant coating.

Because the nuts are not locking, I have included Nord-Lock washers (two sets per bolt), which are not only superior to nyloc or deformed thread when it comes to vibration and are rated for use with Class 12 bolts, they are also infinitely reusable (where most locknuts are limited use), so you can swap out front struts to your heart's content. One washer set is installed under the head and one under the nut to prevent rotation or loss of preload. Do not separate the washer sets or install them inverted (the wide ramp faces touch eachother, while the narrow serrated faces go against bolt and strut flange. They come lightly glued together but halves may separate after removal which is not a problem as long as you stack them back together correctly.

One set for both front struts consists of the following:
4x - Class 12.9 Flanged Hex Bolts, M12x1.75 80mm long, fully threaded
4x - Class 12 Flanged Nuts, M12x1.75
8x - Nord-Lock Washers, M12

I highly recommend using antiseize (I prefer Loctite 8023 Marine Grade Antiseize). The correct calculated torque for these bolts (when lubricated with Antiseize) is 150 Nm (110 ft-lbs). Do not apply the factory torque method (torque+angle) or you will permanently damage the bolts and not be able to reuse them.

Cost is $75/set (shipping and paypal fee are included) Post here and PM me if you are interested, payment through Paypal

IMG_8687.jpeg
 


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D1JL

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GLWS
Your cooperation is appreciated.
Thank you
 


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Dialcaliper

Dialcaliper

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Please follow the Forum Classified Rules

Please pay attension, especially the ones highlighted in red.

Your cooperation is appreciated.
Thank you
I did the post on my computer and came back to put the photos from my phone. Let me know if there's anything still missing. (The photo card is from June, but I decided to wait until I tested a set on the car for a period before offering them up to other people. If this is a problem let me know and I'll try to take another picture soon.
 


TyphoonFiST

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So what length are the factory bolts? Fastenal Couldn't source or have any? Is there a section in the factory manual that states they are torque to yield?
 


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Dialcaliper

Dialcaliper

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The manual states throw them away which usually indicates torque to yield. I also verified by calculated torque for the bolted joint based on the manual torque/angle method (82Nm+90deg) will permanently yield the bolt by almost 0.3mm. A M12 10.9 bolt should not exceed 135 Nm, which you go well past. If you’ve tightened a lot of bolts, You can also tell when you are tightening it.

You should not reuse the lower strut bolts if tightening by the factory method. In theory you could just put them to 135Nm, but the clamp load will be significantly lower.

Factory bolts are threaded out to about 60mm not including reduced tip unthreaded tip.

I should add that McMaster has some M12 Class 12.9 bolts, but with the zinc flake coating only in socket head caps screws and only up to 50mm long. The only class 12 nuts they have are bare steel and non-locking. I also tried several other sources, including a local place that's usually good with metric stuff, but the place in Australia is the only one I found with an even vaguely affordable price (as long as you buy in quantity - in singletons, just the bolts cost $15 each, not including the nuts and washers which are also not particularly cheap either.

This is a fairly critical suspension location, so if I'm going to buy reusable bolts to replace the factory ones, I went for the highest performance option I could find.

Does that answer your questions?
 


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Dialcaliper

Dialcaliper

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Ah, I see why you might be confused. The manual sucks in this regard:

The "Wheel Knuckle" section clearly specifies to chuck them in the bin but doesn't show torque, but the "Strut and Spring Assembly" doesn't actually show the discard. What I can tell you is that the bolts are clearly marked Class 10.9, and that the torque spec shown here will yield the bolts.

1697000436015.png 1697000599868.png
 


kevinatfms

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Can absolutely vouch for Dialcaliper along with these being a massive headache reliever. I have a set on my Fiesta with the B8/Swift combo i recently just put back on the car.

They are TTY, here is a photo of the stretched shank of the knuckle bolts.
IMG_3047.JPG
 


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Dialcaliper

Dialcaliper

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Just wanted to let anyone who plans to use these know that I put a link to this post in my profile in case you want to look up the torque spec again
 


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I’d like a set please.

Just curious: I’m using a “camber bolt” in the upper hole of each mount. Are you doing anything to increase negative camber?
 


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Dialcaliper

Dialcaliper

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I’d like a set please.

Just curious: I’m using a “camber bolt” in the upper hole of each mount. Are you doing anything to increase negative camber?
Currently I'm using some H&R Triple-C camber bolts on the top with a B6 strut, with the one 12.9 on the lower, which gets me to about -2.0deg in the front. Once my custom shocks are done I'll be switching over to some top camber plates and using the 12,9 in both.

Still have some more sets of these
 


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Thanks Dialcaliper. I received my 12.9 bolts and they will go in soon...when I replace my cheap camber bolts with the H&R Triple-C bolts.
 


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