Skold's FiST Build Thread: Best Bang For Buck Mods for $1100??

[skold]

Dont forget.........tires. That is the biggest change you could "feel" except for a tune.

I have my original stock tires with good tread left. This car will be daily driven year-round in the Houston area so no winter so to speak. I was under the impression that the stocks were pretty much the best as far as this goes and I have nothing to compare them to. What would be better options when it is time to replace them given my driving needs?

 

[TemecFist]

good point

You are not, very few of the mods on the stock turbo setup add anything really. Ford did a pretty good job of building the stock setup to fit the Turbo so to speak. The majority of bolts are to eliminate the anti turbo noise features Ford built into the ancillary parts like the J pipe and whatnot. Its so funny as well because they worked so hard to make it nice and quite and unobstrusive and then went and stuck the sound symposer on it to make up for that . lol I think the whole idea was do not annoy the general public with whooshes and whistles and barks. lol
Though ya Jason at Dizzy did a extensive intake dyno test to see if any intakes added in appreciative power. A crossover pipe was found to be more significant than any intake outside of the 2j cowl mess.
So pretty much ya most of the bolt ons help hybrids and bigger turbo’s breath better but on stock meh just making it sound more like its true spirit a turbo car and less like the what me a turbo no stock setup.
I did the J pipe I did a crossover, I did the ST200 intake, I also picked up an ITG recently that I have not installed yet for shits and giggles may or may not keep it.
Though my S280 definitely benefits from the crossover pipe and the J pipe is now off because S280 had its own piping

I did the j-pipe and crossover pipe as well and it didnt even really add that much noise. The ITG intake has added the most noise of anything so far, except for maybe the Boomba bov/spacer type of thingy, but that was kinda like the symposer....it seemed artificial to me. The only reason I did the ITG intake was because I did want a little more noise, lol. Jason is in the process of doing my new E30 tune now, so I'm excited to see how it compares to the JST tune (next month I'll be dynoing them back to back). Man, that S280, you're lucky.....I've got my eye on that thing!!! Lol

 

[TemecFist]

If you need tires that will do well in rain also, I honestly have no clue. I'm sure some of these other guys have experience with some good tires. I live in San Diego, so I only have experience with R comps, 40tw, 140tw, and 200tw tires. But the best "bang for the buck" (summer, dry tires) I would say is the Federal Rs-rr or the RS-Pro. I can get a set (mounted) for $400......that's a heck of a deal.

 

[Capri to ST]

I have my original stock tires with good tread left. This car will be daily driven year-round in the Houston area so no winter so to speak. I was under the impression that the stocks were pretty much the best as far as this goes and I have nothing to compare them to. What would be better options when it is time to replace them given my driving needs?

There were actually two original stock tires, summer Bridgestone Potenza RE050As, and an all-season Michelin tire. Since you're in Houston, you shouldn't need an all-season tire. The OEM Bridgestones are great for maximizing the quick responsive handling of the car. They don't last that long, but who cares? If you can find them, that would be my recommendation for a replacement.
The problem is they have gotten difficult to find, Tire Rack for example hasn't had them for quite some time. A local Firestone dealer told me they would have to special-order them and quoted me an exorbitant price. I don't like tires that have to be special ordered in case I need to replace one quickly. Because the OEM Bridgestones have gotten hard to find, a lot of us have gone to Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s. They're quite reasonably priced and in my experience looks like they will last about 50% longer than the Bridgestones. However, they give up that last 10% or so of the quick responsive handling, which I am not too happy about. They do get better as they wear, and the ultimate grip is pretty close. There are not many choices in the OEM size, and I have avoided Extreme Performance tires just because around here it gets pretty cold in the winter and I'm a little reluctant to drive them in that, although the Firehawks are still summer tires and may not be that much better in that regard.

 

[Dpro]

QUOTE="TemecFist, post: 436433, member: 8885"]I did the j-pipe and crossover pipe as well and it didnt even really add that much noise. The ITG intake has added the most noise of anything so far, except for maybe the Boomba bov/spacer type of thingy, but that was kinda like the symposer....it seemed artificial to me. The only reason I did the ITG intake was because I did want a little more noise, lol. Jason is in the process of doing my new E30 tune now, so I'm excited to see how it compares to the JST tune (next month I'll be dynoing them back to back). Man, that S280, you're lucky.....I've got my eye on that thing!!! Lol[/QUOTE]

Ya I am tuning with Adam at Tuneplus and the car sounds nice with the Mountune Sportcat and S280 the exhaust sounded good before but now the car growls. and to think I am gonna toss an ITG into the mix.

There were actually two original stock tires, summer Bridgestone Potenza RE050As, and an all-season Michelin tire. Since you're in Houston, you shouldn't need an all-season tire. The OEM Bridgestones are great for maximizing the quick responsive handling of the car. They don't last that long, but who cares? If you can find them, that would be my recommendation for a replacement.
The problem is they have gotten difficult to find, Tire Rack for example hasn't had them for quite some time. A local Firestone dealer told me they would have to special-order them and quoted me an exorbitant price. I don't like tires that have to be special ordered in case I need to replace one quickly. Because the OEM Bridgestones have gotten hard to find, a lot of us have gone to Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s. They're quite reasonably priced and in my experience looks like they will last about 50% longer than the Bridgestones. However, they give up that last 10% or so of the quick responsive handling, which I am not too happy about. They do get better as they wear, and the ultimate grip is pretty close. There are not many choices in the OEM size, and I have avoided Extreme Performance tires just because around here it gets pretty cold in the winter and I'm a little reluctant to drive them in that, although the Firehawks are still summer tires and may not be that much better in that regard.

Stock tires are difficult to get and quite pricey in comparison to stickier 200TW tires. In Houston he could get away with a lot of relatively inexpensive 200TW tires. Like Temec was talking about above and I can attest one could easily run Federal RS Pro’s in a place like Houston all the time. Oh and they are cheap and super sticky. I have them on my Dekagrams right now. I am going to Falken RT660’s which is another great choice and I am putting 215/40/17‘s on . They are still $75 cheaper than Bridgestone and will outperform it.

 

[TemecFist]

If you need tires that will do well in rain also, I honestly have no clue. I'm sure some of these other guys have experience with some good tires. I live in San Diego, so I only have experience with R comps, 40tw, 140tw, and 200tw tires. But the best "bang for the buck" (summer, dry tires) I would say is the Federal Rs-rr or the RS-Pro. I can get a set (mounted) for $400......that's a heck of a deal.

QUOTE="TemecFist, post: 436433, member: 8885"]I did the j-pipe and crossover pipe as well and it didnt even really add that much noise. The ITG intake has added the most noise of anything so far, except for maybe the Boomba bov/spacer type of thingy, but that was kinda like the symposer....it seemed artificial to me. The only reason I did the ITG intake was because I did want a little more noise, lol. Jason is in the process of doing my new E30 tune now, so I'm excited to see how it compares to the JST tune (next month I'll be dynoing them back to back). Man, that S280, you're lucky.....I've got my eye on that thing!!! Lol

Ya I am tuning with Adam at Tuneplus and the car sounds nice with the Mountune Sportcat and S280 the exhaust sounded good before but now the car growls. and to think I am gonna toss an ITG into the mix.







Stock tires are difficult to get and quite pricey in comparison to stickier 200TW tires. In Houston he could get away with a lot of relatively inexpensive 200TW tires. Like Temec was talking about above and I can attest one could easily run Federal RS Pro’s in a place like Houston all the time. Oh and they are cheap and super sticky. I have them on my Dekagrams right now. I am going to Falken RT660’s which is another great choice and I am putting 215/40/17‘s on . They are still $75 cheaper than Bridgestone and will outperform it.[/QUOTE]



I'm running RT660's in 215/40r17 now......best tire I've ever used for the street....hands down.

 

[skold]

I'm running RT660's in 215/40r17 now......best tire I've ever used for the street....hands down.

Good to know and thanks for the tire advice for when I need it guys. I don't think tire upgrade is relevant to this build thread anymore though as my stock tires are still good and it doesn't sound like there is a tire upgrade that makes sense for me as a way to spend my $1100.

 

[skold]

UPDATE: Here's my tentative build/upgrade list for $1100.

I still have considerations to be made at the bottom so please feel free to chime in on which I should for sure do or prioritize.

Thanks so far...this is fun!

Purchased or pending purchase:
Headlights and cabin lights: $45
Foglights: $75
Used Cobb AP: $300
Used 2 point Trac Bar: $40

Probable purchase:
Whoosh V1 Intercooler: $300
NKG Ruthenium HX gapped at .28: $55

Cash Left: $325

Other considerations:

-RamAir filter from Whoosh..many say useless for what I am doing
-Spec-D Tail lights...not performance but good looking on Triple Platinum White
-Whoosh Blow Off Valve Adapter
-Oil catch can???
-Transmission fluid, Ravenol MTF-2 fluid for your gear box
-Whoosh Radiator?
-extra hose clamps?
-Bolts for traction bar: Part W715977-S900
-Whoosh charge pipe (others have said the stock one pops off)???

How should I spend the last $325??? I must do it judiciously!

 

[Jabbit]

Springs and a RMM.

 

[ronmcdon]

I definitely recommend changing transmission fluid as more of priority. it's my understanding that from the factory it's not always filled correctly and may be a reliability issue for the transmission.

intercooler just wait around and you can probably snag something like a whoosh v3, cp-e, moutune for a decent amount.

I'd also check out the $15 bolt for the passenger engine mount that may be an issue. seems like a pretty cheap fix.
https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopif...r-engine-mount-bolt-upgrade-kit-free-shipping

totally agreed with radiator.

I always recommend getting an alignment with any car you acquire. my latest new car, my '18 camaro was night and day difference after getting a 4 wheel alignment. for better or worse with the fiesta its usually just the front wheels. after getting camber bolts, should be more or less $100

I think radiator, intercooler, transmission fluid levels aside this car is pretty well optimized from the factory. usually 100% I would say jump on things like better tires, sometimes brake pads, better brake fluid, do some suspension parts for other cars, but for for the the fiesta everything is well optimized for fun street driving. the stock suspension, tires, pads are really good. unless you're a fantastic driver, I think much of the upgrades you will see only if you hit the track. Hoping to hit up Chuckwalla this weekend and I'm very comfortable doing so with more or less stock suspension.

 

[akiraproject24]

I picked up the new control arm bolts when I got the 2 pt traction bar. Probably be fine reusing but they are described as stretch bolts. The RMM is also a noticeable change in feel for the car. I just noticed Whoosh just posted a sale for these as well.

 

[skold]

I picked up the new control arm bolts when I got the 2 pt traction bar. Probably be fine reusing but they are described as stretch bolts. The RMM is also a noticeable change in feel for the car. I just noticed Whoosh just posted a sale for these as well.

Thanks! I already have the COBB RMM as it was the first thing I did to my car after buying it new. I'm considering the bolts as they are pretty cheap and it can't hurt.

 

[skold]

Springs and a RMM.

Already have RMM...first mod I did. Thanks! Springs would eat too much budget at this point but who knows down the line.

 

[skold]

totally agreed with radiator.

This is probably the toughest one for me. I've read about it and heard it suggested but that would eat up all of the rest of my funds. I'd planned on adding foam tape as others have suggested to shore up the stock one and hope it was good enough. Then again, I am in Houston, TX area so it is hot and humid much of the year.

If I shore up the stock radiator and go with other mods confirmed above and tune, what would be the indication that my radiator is insufficient? Then if it appears to be a problem point, I'll cave in and upgrade. That is kind of the direction I'm leaning.

 

[DoomsdayMelody]

Is this 100% sure with a Dizzy Stage 2? I don't want to waste any money on something that won't help or keep my FiST reliable. Thank you!

I'll post an update with my plan later...dealing with this Texas winter storm lately. Thanks for all who've contributed so far...VERY HELPFUL!

So, there have been quite a few independent tests done on aftermarket air filters, notably K&N. Using ISO 5011 bench testing procedures (http://rubicon-trail.com/public/K&N filter test.html) they found that while a K&N flows marginally more air when new, it is comparatively less efficient as an actual filter while also having very poor filtering capacity (indicating shorter replacement/cleaning intervals)as well as allowing a full order of magnitude (bordering almost 2 orders of magnitude) more contaminants through the filter when compared to stock. If you take a look at the link provided above you can see on the “dust loading” graph, that while the K&N offers the lowest initial restriction, it becomes just as plugged up as any filter in the test and becomes a larger restriction with less dust captured compared to pretty much all of the other tested filters.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jabbit]

Already have RMM...first mod I did. Thanks! Springs would eat too much budget at this point but who knows down the line.

PM me your address and I'll mail you a K&N drop in air filter that only has about 5k miles on it. You seem like a good egg.

Also of you are big on noise/sound, consider spending $50 to have a muffler shop cut out your resonator.

 

[M-Sport fan]

This is probably the toughest one for me. I've read about it and heard it suggested but that would eat up all of the rest of my funds. I'd planned on adding foam tape as others have suggested to shore up the stock one and hope it was good enough. Then again, I am in Houston, TX area so it is hot and humid much of the year.

If I shore up the stock radiator and go with other mods confirmed above and tune, what would be the indication that my radiator is insufficient? Then if it appears to be a problem point, I'll cave in and upgrade. That is kind of the direction I'm leaning.

Of course, there are many, many on here who will vehemently disagree with me on this, but, IF I lived there, or anywhere that late spring/summer temps (the humidity actually has no bearing on automotive cooling systems at all) are sky high for sustained time periods, I would opt for the radiator over the intercooler, if I was forced to choose between the two (especially on the stock snail, and a mild tune).

I personally would rather eliminate the chance of a blown head gasket, and a warped head, than risk that, while having a lower charge air temp 'repeatability' over the factory IC.
One 'problem' co$t$ the owner WAY WAY MORE coin than the other.

 

[TemecFist]

I definitely recommend changing transmission fluid as more of priority. it's my understanding that from the factory it's not always filled correctly and may be a reliability issue for the transmission.

intercooler just wait around and you can probably snag something like a whoosh v3, cp-e, moutune for a decent amount.

I'd also check out the $15 bolt for the passenger engine mount that may be an issue. seems like a pretty cheap fix.
https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopif...r-engine-mount-bolt-upgrade-kit-free-shipping

totally agreed with radiator.

I always recommend getting an alignment with any car you acquire. my latest new car, my '18 camaro was night and day difference after getting a 4 wheel alignment. for better or worse with the fiesta its usually just the front wheels. after getting camber bolts, should be more or less $100

I think radiator, intercooler, transmission fluid levels aside this car is pretty well optimized from the factory. usually 100% I would say jump on things like better tires, sometimes brake pads, better brake fluid, do some suspension parts for other cars, but for for the the fiesta everything is well optimized for fun street driving. the stock suspension, tires, pads are really good. unless you're a fantastic driver, I think much of the upgrades you will see only if you hit the track. Hoping to hit up Chuckwalla this weekend and I'm very comfortable doing so with more or less stock suspension.

Your going to Chuckwalla this weekend? I was supposed to be leaving for Buttonwillow tomorrow afternoon, but some plans fell thru. I might be able to re-direct to Chuckwalla tho.

 

[TemecFist]

This is probably the toughest one for me. I've read about it and heard it suggested but that would eat up all of the rest of my funds. I'd planned on adding foam tape as others have suggested to shore up the stock one and hope it was good enough. Then again, I am in Houston, TX area so it is hot and humid much of the year.

If I shore up the stock radiator and go with other mods confirmed above and tune, what would be the indication that my radiator is insufficient? Then if it appears to be a problem point, I'll cave in and upgrade. That is kind of the direction I'm leaning.

Honestly my friend, if you live in Houston, shoring up the radiator isnt going to make a difference. Do yourself a favor, get yourself the Mountune radiator and never worry about it again. I live in San Diego (hot), and I've never had an issue, even when its 115* and on the track. Radiator and fmic was the very first mod I did to this car when it had 100 miles on it.

 

[Dpro]

I am going to side with the Radiator people here. You‘re in Houston a Intercooler could be purchased later a radiator is something that you do not want to be caught out on. I did my intercooler and radiator at the same time. After I did a canyon run in 85 degree temps with my air on ( forgot to turn it off lol) and temps soared and car went into panic limp mode.
It was like ya intercooler and rad in they go.