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Track Day Trailer Setups
- Thread starter razr_m3
- Start date
I've rented lots of dolly type trailers from uhaul and I even owned my own dolly for a couple years when I was tracking my previous track car 2 times a month. The dolly cannot keep up with a proper trailer. I just recently bought a 2 axle trailer and it tows 10x smoother than a dolly. If funds/ space allow, I would strongly recommend a full trailer over a a dolly. But I understand the space, money concerns. Just know, all the weight will be on the front 2 wheels so the weight distribution is going to be horrible. Put as much weight as you can on the rear of the fiesta when towing to make the trip a little smoother.
Probably a good idea. What type of vehicle and hitch class are you using to tow?
Sometimes you’re just stuck with a dolly for total weight issues, in which case you’ll need to practice setting it up properly and take it slow. Shifting weight around to get the tongue weight right is pretty critical to keeping sway under control. Too much and you can overload the hitch even if your capacity is fine, but too little tongue weight on the hitch can be just as bad and result in the trailer swaying uncontrollably
If you do have 4000lb tow capability, there do exist lightweight aluminum flat car trailers that are around 1200lb dry weight, in which case you might be able to just squeak by as long as you can still load your tools and equipment in your tow vehicle. In either case you’ll need to be careful towing near maximum capacity. Obviously don’t be “that guy” towing an overloaded trailer at 80mph in the left lane!
The other thing I’d recommend if you’re towing near capacity is to look into a dolly with electric brakes and wiring your tow vehicle up for it. Brake less or surge brakes are really only okay for light to moderate loads (relative to your tow capacity)
Lastly, consider how many times a year you’ll actually be towing to the track - if it’s just a few, and you’re thinking to rent the trailer it may end up safer not that much more cash to also just rent both a uhaul pickup and flatbed trailer unless you’re pretty far from the track.
Sometimes you’re just stuck with a dolly for total weight issues, in which case you’ll need to practice setting it up properly and take it slow. Shifting weight around to get the tongue weight right is pretty critical to keeping sway under control. Too much and you can overload the hitch even if your capacity is fine, but too little tongue weight on the hitch can be just as bad and result in the trailer swaying uncontrollably
If you do have 4000lb tow capability, there do exist lightweight aluminum flat car trailers that are around 1200lb dry weight, in which case you might be able to just squeak by as long as you can still load your tools and equipment in your tow vehicle. In either case you’ll need to be careful towing near maximum capacity. Obviously don’t be “that guy” towing an overloaded trailer at 80mph in the left lane!
The other thing I’d recommend if you’re towing near capacity is to look into a dolly with electric brakes and wiring your tow vehicle up for it. Brake less or surge brakes are really only okay for light to moderate loads (relative to your tow capacity)
Lastly, consider how many times a year you’ll actually be towing to the track - if it’s just a few, and you’re thinking to rent the trailer it may end up safer not that much more cash to also just rent both a uhaul pickup and flatbed trailer unless you’re pretty far from the track.
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OP
Thread Starter
#8
Thread Starter
#8
I've got 5,000 lbs to work with for my towing, so with 2500 lbs for the car, I'm trying to sort out a trailer setup that's ~1,500-2,000 lbs total. Definitely want electric brakes, but trying to figure out the smallest trailer I can get away with. Ideally, I'd love a two axle flatbed trailer with electric brakes that's barely big enough for the Fiesta.
There’s stuff out there like this:
https://www.trailex.com/products/pc/Open-Car-Trailers-c17.htm
But it will probably run you $7-8k new unless you can find one used. Keep in mind Uhaul is pretty reasonable, even for multi day rentals and they offer package deals on truck+trailer combo, so sometimes it can be worth it even if you own a tow vehicle (looking at something like $200 plus $1.20 a mile for a 3-day truck-trailer combo rental), so at $300-400 a weekend, it might take a while to make buying a trailer setup really worth it.
https://www.trailex.com/products/pc/Open-Car-Trailers-c17.htm
But it will probably run you $7-8k new unless you can find one used. Keep in mind Uhaul is pretty reasonable, even for multi day rentals and they offer package deals on truck+trailer combo, so sometimes it can be worth it even if you own a tow vehicle (looking at something like $200 plus $1.20 a mile for a 3-day truck-trailer combo rental), so at $300-400 a weekend, it might take a while to make buying a trailer setup really worth it.
That’s a significant drive, but I totally understand. I guess the point I was making with the Uhaul is that just like driving a car fast or doing anything else, trying to push the limits is that towing 4000 pounds behind a truck with a 6-8k tow capacity, longer wheelbase and stiffer rear axle is going to be a bit more forgiving than setting up your vehicle to tow at 10/10ths if that makes any sense.
At very least I’d try renting both setups once to try it out, maybe starting with the uhaul truck so you’re starting out in the shallow end or try hauling something lighter that’s not one of your favorite race cars in a small trailer behind your Kia (good excuse to do a big cleanup and haul stuff to the dump?)
Nothing inherently wrong with learning to swim in the deepend, but the consequences are bigger. For example I remember when I was younger, my dad (who already had decent experience towing) was trying to tow a decent sized boat on a trailer with surge brakes that was *supposed* to be rated for it, and for whatever reason, couldn’t get it to stop bumping back and forth and engaging the brakes while towing. Tried many adjustments and at one point after a gust of wind ended up with the damn thing whipping side to side at freeway speeds. He got rod f that trailer really quickly after that.
Speaking of which, read up a bit on how to drive with a trailer, because there are some important things like “if something is wrong, hitting the brakes is often the worst thing you can do - coast down instead”. Towing can be either really boring or completely terrifying without a lot of in between, but either way it’s still serious business and different than just driving even a large vehicle.
At very least I’d try renting both setups once to try it out, maybe starting with the uhaul truck so you’re starting out in the shallow end or try hauling something lighter that’s not one of your favorite race cars in a small trailer behind your Kia (good excuse to do a big cleanup and haul stuff to the dump?)
Nothing inherently wrong with learning to swim in the deepend, but the consequences are bigger. For example I remember when I was younger, my dad (who already had decent experience towing) was trying to tow a decent sized boat on a trailer with surge brakes that was *supposed* to be rated for it, and for whatever reason, couldn’t get it to stop bumping back and forth and engaging the brakes while towing. Tried many adjustments and at one point after a gust of wind ended up with the damn thing whipping side to side at freeway speeds. He got rod f that trailer really quickly after that.
Speaking of which, read up a bit on how to drive with a trailer, because there are some important things like “if something is wrong, hitting the brakes is often the worst thing you can do - coast down instead”. Towing can be either really boring or completely terrifying without a lot of in between, but either way it’s still serious business and different than just driving even a large vehicle.
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Both are homemade. The hauler has dual 3500lbs axles both with electric brakes. The tire trailer was a Northern Tool model I modified. You’ll want a real truck to pull a hauler like a F150, Tundra or Sequoia. I towed for a couple of years with a Tacoma and it struggled. A Ranger should tow better than a Tacoma since it’s rated to 10k.
The Fiesta towed the tire trailer easily.
The Fiesta towed the tire trailer easily.
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If your budget permits, buy an aluminum dual axle hauler with brakes on both axles,12v battery and winch along with a set of RaceRamp extensions for the main trailer ramps. Aluminum trailers always hold their value ($5k and up). You’d probably be able to sell it for the same price you paid even if it’s five years later.. Futura (around $15k) makes the best open hauler in the US. They drop and don’t require ramps.
Open deck steel haulers are typically lighter than closed deck. Flat trailers are better than dove tails like mine, if you’re running front aero and the car is low. I use six foot aluminum ramps with RaceRamp extensions. Just about everyone uses $35 wood boards to load +$100k cars. I don’t get it.. Just buy RaceRamps because they don’t slide and they’re a hell of lot easier to deal with.
Enclosed haulers need F250 size or bigger regardless of what they’re made of due to aero drag. Sure you can toe with a smaller truck but it’ll be unstable in wind and gas will be more expensive. Enclosed is nice for camping at the track but off-site storage can be more of an issue and the truck needs to be able to tow 12-15k easily. The drag is noticeable behind a pickup or SUV but not too terrible behind an RV.
Trailer tires SUCK. I have no idea why. Make sure you have one spare at minimum. I carry two on long trips. Correct air pressure and keeping speed below 70mph are critical. I think most states enforce 55mph trailer speed limits anyway. I usually go around 65-70 when no one is around. Same as big rigs..
Open deck steel haulers are typically lighter than closed deck. Flat trailers are better than dove tails like mine, if you’re running front aero and the car is low. I use six foot aluminum ramps with RaceRamp extensions. Just about everyone uses $35 wood boards to load +$100k cars. I don’t get it.. Just buy RaceRamps because they don’t slide and they’re a hell of lot easier to deal with.
Enclosed haulers need F250 size or bigger regardless of what they’re made of due to aero drag. Sure you can toe with a smaller truck but it’ll be unstable in wind and gas will be more expensive. Enclosed is nice for camping at the track but off-site storage can be more of an issue and the truck needs to be able to tow 12-15k easily. The drag is noticeable behind a pickup or SUV but not too terrible behind an RV.
Trailer tires SUCK. I have no idea why. Make sure you have one spare at minimum. I carry two on long trips. Correct air pressure and keeping speed below 70mph are critical. I think most states enforce 55mph trailer speed limits anyway. I usually go around 65-70 when no one is around. Same as big rigs..
I think you also need to take in to account what type of terrain you'll face along the way. If you are facing a lot of hills with high grade % you will need a stronger truck. I towed my old S2000 on a dual axle trailer with my dads dodge ram 2500 diesel and through some mountains north of LA county to buttonwillow and it STRUGGLED and was getting warm in temps. Thankfully no overheating, but I doubt our Ram 1500 would've did it without overheating. But the 1500 could easily tow to most other tracks like chuckwalla and willow springs.
My plan in the near future is to pick up an open deck, steel, 8'x16' car trailer. I have been renting/using Uhaul Auto Transport trailers for 10+ years for track events and i think its finally time to get my own. Econo-Trailer Manufacturing in Claysburg PA has a nice setup for $3399 with $200 off right now and $100 off if you pay by cash.
http://www.econotrailer.com/Open.html
Id have them add the winch plate/storage box plate, tie downs and a few other small items. Then id have a local company build me a tire rack on the front.
http://www.econotrailer.com/Open.html
Id have them add the winch plate/storage box plate, tie downs and a few other small items. Then id have a local company build me a tire rack on the front.
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