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What up from the D - Vibration in steering wheel on recent ST buy

flbchbm

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#21
Thanks for the support and input. I do believe Firestone, but what has me second guessing it is I would think the vibration would increase under braking even under low speeds but it feels like it only kicks in above 60+ MPH.
Disclaimer: YMMV/IMHO...
Tires can BE balanced, but worn in patchy areas, so to speak, that make them out of round. THAT is a separate issue, but you would probably feel that differently. If the wheel is oscillating left and right, I would have the tires re-balanced. Rotors don't warp as much as people think...they get 'hot spots' where they have a buildup of material. That's why they actually 'pulse', not 'wobble'. And the harder you press the more you feel it. Another issue with VENTED front rotors that are drilled is the amount of rust that can build up inside the vanes and holes. If there is more in one area than the other because some broke off, a slight verticle wobble might be felt. It all comes down to the movement of the steering wheel. Left to right or stationary vibrating?
 


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charlotte
#22
Rotors could just be out of round. They would need to checked with a micrometer for run out and how much rotor is left before they are turned so your not turning rotors that are at or near discard Does the Vibration go away after 60MPH? Also as k them if they Static balance or Road force balance?
i've been getting roughness in the pedal at about 20 mph and when i brake from about 40 down to 20. i don't notice the roughness after about 30 mph. i am also getting a lil vibration in the clutch sometimes.

the roughness feels like there is dirt or something in the rolling bits and it makes a lil bit of a yawning noise when i am approaching a stop.

you got any insights on what that could be?
 


PunkST

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Menasha
#23
Possibly hot spots and extra brake material embedded in the rotor.
 


TyphoonFiST

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Rich-fizzield
#24
Time to clean and inspect! That is the only thing that will set you free of your issue.



Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk
 


Last edited:
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Metro Detroit
#26
There are lots of potential causes for your vibration, so lets go down the list.

Number One is wheel/Tire Balance. Note, Spin Balancing is NOT as accurate as bubble balancing. Because a precision bubble balancing machine can have the vial ground to something on the order of 0.0005 inch per foot. Bad news is because it takes more time to do the balance about the only bubble balancers still in use are on Racing Teams or old farts like me who know how good they can be. This means that your only choice is to have them spin balanced and there can be a huge difference from one shop to another. I would suggest going to a shop that is "in" with the autocross crowd but I have had good results with the Firestone in Roseville, MI.

Second cause is bad rotors but they are way down the list compared to Wheel balance. Here the best way to test them is to just buy new rotors and the good news is that it won't break the bank.

Third is suspension wear, as in ball joints and tie rod ends. Here you have to remember that spin balancing is not that accurate, Basically all spin balancing does is get the wheel balance "good enough" for a suspension in good condition with enough friction to damp out the slight imbalance. If you have ball joints worn to the point of being just a touch "loose" that play in the ball joints or tie rod will act to magnify any out of balance condition. In addition the condition of the struts will likely be less than optimal if they are the same age as the rest of a worn suspension.

My advice for a solution is like the previous posts, check the wheel balance. However I would not go to the same shop that did the present balance, find another shop that has good reviews or recommendations.

PS; the original VW Beetle had a devise attached to the tie rod assembly called a Steering Damper and when they wore out you could get wheel shake severe enough to rip the steering wheel out of your hands if you weren't expecting it. Good news with the Beetle it was a harmonic thing that happened between 35 and 40 mph so hard braking or speeding up could get you out of that shake zone. Good news is they were easy to replace on the Beetle, bad news is I've heard that some Trucks and Suv's are re-introducing these devices. I only mention this because being rather new to the FiST I have no idea at all if they feature a steering damper.
 




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