Best RMM available?
- Thread starter Schoolz
- Start date
- Member ID
- #1303
- Messages
- 668
- Likes
- 130
Boomba is great above 1700 rpm with light to moderate load, unless your in 5th or 6th gear. Starting from a stop with light load you will get significant nvh, however, of you are easy on starts then it's not very noticeable... (600 miles on my boomba so far)... Cold weather starts nvh is much more noticeable (under 40 degrees out)
Suffice to say if your staying in the shift light zone and accelerating you'll get significant nvh (1500 to 2100rpm)... 50mph and above, slightly more noise than stock, but not really noticeable...
Suffice to say if your staying in the shift light zone and accelerating you'll get significant nvh (1500 to 2100rpm)... 50mph and above, slightly more noise than stock, but not really noticeable...
To be fair to Cobb, I didn't see any torque values for the bolts in the Cobb instructions (maybe I missed them) so I just tightened the bolts based upon common sense. The Moutune unit came with instructions with torque values, and so I made sure to use the torque wrench on the bolts when installing the Mountune unit. Perhaps the Cobb would've vibrated less with the bolts tightened more? I'll never know!
I like how the Mountune feels and shifts in day-to-day driving, and haven't noticed any loss in "stiffness." Everyone is different, though, so it's somewhat subjective. The Cobb unit uses a different material with voids around the circumference whereas the Mountune unit is solid but made of polyurethane.
Thread Starter
#12
I decided to go with Mountune. After reading many reviews I figured it was the best option for me. Thank you guys for all of your feedback. I will let you know how I like it. It is on back order at the moment so I should have it within the next month.
- Member ID
- #1893
- Messages
- 878
- Likes
- 927
- Member ID
- #864
- Messages
- 4,567
- Likes
- 860
For what its worth to you guys... ( and no, I'm not going to get into a debate with trolls on this one ), but in experience so far, I can tell you the mounts in these cars CAN CAUSE FALSE KNOCK and cost you power.
Example #1 was a loose passenger side mount that caused low speed knock when hitting a bump or just low rpm driving ( like 1,000-1500rpm ). I'd get -1.00 knock with E40 fuel on 4psi at part throttle.
Example #2 has happened recently. I've made a few short post about it, but... My 2J race insert worked great but then wore fast because its taking all the load ( the other soft mounts are doing bery little at that point ). Well, after many months with it, it was obvious that solid bushing was becoming oval-ed. After inspected it in hand, it truely was. I then took my stock mount out of the closest. I hammered in some heavy industrial roll pins, and then filled the gaps left with castle clear silicone adhesive. Inlet it cure for about 6 weeks because i had other fish to fry ( like a 93oct tune ).
Fast forward to last week. I finally had time and actually had the stock re-enforced mount in the car, so I installed it. Wow... Nice to have some comfort back. But the biggest thing I've noticed? The tunes/settings that used to get -1.50 to -1.00 to -1.25 of knock corrections on randomly, now have.... 0.00 corrrections. I have only seen once correction in over a week now and it was a -0.32 on 1 cylinder and that's pretty normal actually. The race mount was DEFINITELY causing false knock.
I did lose some of the greater things about the stiff mount, but i think I'm going to sleeve it and save it for "track only" duty, which its very good at.
I asked Boomba about building a solution for the other mounts on the car, but they said it was not in the plan. Some one needs to address these other mounts. A 33%-45% increase in stiffness to all the mounts is a much better solution than having mounts made of chewing gum mixed 1 mount made of concrete.
Take that info for what it is
love it hate it debate it. I've just giving my personal findings to yall.
Example #1 was a loose passenger side mount that caused low speed knock when hitting a bump or just low rpm driving ( like 1,000-1500rpm ). I'd get -1.00 knock with E40 fuel on 4psi at part throttle.
Example #2 has happened recently. I've made a few short post about it, but... My 2J race insert worked great but then wore fast because its taking all the load ( the other soft mounts are doing bery little at that point ). Well, after many months with it, it was obvious that solid bushing was becoming oval-ed. After inspected it in hand, it truely was. I then took my stock mount out of the closest. I hammered in some heavy industrial roll pins, and then filled the gaps left with castle clear silicone adhesive. Inlet it cure for about 6 weeks because i had other fish to fry ( like a 93oct tune ).
Fast forward to last week. I finally had time and actually had the stock re-enforced mount in the car, so I installed it. Wow... Nice to have some comfort back. But the biggest thing I've noticed? The tunes/settings that used to get -1.50 to -1.00 to -1.25 of knock corrections on randomly, now have.... 0.00 corrrections. I have only seen once correction in over a week now and it was a -0.32 on 1 cylinder and that's pretty normal actually. The race mount was DEFINITELY causing false knock.
I did lose some of the greater things about the stiff mount, but i think I'm going to sleeve it and save it for "track only" duty, which its very good at.
I asked Boomba about building a solution for the other mounts on the car, but they said it was not in the plan. Some one needs to address these other mounts. A 33%-45% increase in stiffness to all the mounts is a much better solution than having mounts made of chewing gum mixed 1 mount made of concrete.
Take that info for what it is
love it hate it debate it. I've just giving my personal findings to yall.
- Member ID
- #1487
- Messages
- 694
- Likes
- 32
For what its worth to you guys... ( and no, I'm not going to get into a debate with trolls on this one ), but in experience so far, I can tell you the mounts in these cars CAN CAUSE FALSE KNOCK and cost you power.
Example #1 was a loose passenger side mount that caused low speed knock when hitting a bump or just low rpm driving ( like 1,000-1500rpm ). I'd get -1.00 knock with E40 fuel on 4psi at part throttle.
Example #2 has happened recently. I've made a few short post about it, but... My 2J race insert worked great but then wore fast because its taking all the load ( the other soft mounts are doing bery little at that point ). Well, after many months with it, it was obvious that solid bushing was becoming oval-ed. After inspected it in hand, it truely was. I then took my stock mount out of the closest. I hammered in some heavy industrial roll pins, and then filled the gaps left with castle clear silicone adhesive. Inlet it cure for about 6 weeks because i had other fish to fry ( like a 93oct tune ).
Fast forward to last week. I finally had time and actually had the stock re-enforced mount in the car, so I installed it. Wow... Nice to have some comfort back. But the biggest thing I've noticed? The tunes/settings that used to get -1.50 to -1.00 to -1.25 of knock corrections on randomly, now have.... 0.00 corrrections. I have only seen once correction in over a week now and it was a -0.32 on 1 cylinder and that's pretty normal actually. The race mount was DEFINITELY causing false knock.
I did lose some of the greater things about the stiff mount, but i think I'm going to sleeve it and save it for "track only" duty, which its very good at.
I asked Boomba about building a solution for the other mounts on the car, but they said it was not in the plan. Some one needs to address these other mounts. A 33%-45% increase in stiffness to all the mounts is a much better solution than having mounts made of chewing gum mixed 1 mount made of concrete.
Take that info for what it is love it hate it debate it. I've just giving my personal findings to yall.
Example #1 was a loose passenger side mount that caused low speed knock when hitting a bump or just low rpm driving ( like 1,000-1500rpm ). I'd get -1.00 knock with E40 fuel on 4psi at part throttle.
Example #2 has happened recently. I've made a few short post about it, but... My 2J race insert worked great but then wore fast because its taking all the load ( the other soft mounts are doing bery little at that point ). Well, after many months with it, it was obvious that solid bushing was becoming oval-ed. After inspected it in hand, it truely was. I then took my stock mount out of the closest. I hammered in some heavy industrial roll pins, and then filled the gaps left with castle clear silicone adhesive. Inlet it cure for about 6 weeks because i had other fish to fry ( like a 93oct tune ).
Fast forward to last week. I finally had time and actually had the stock re-enforced mount in the car, so I installed it. Wow... Nice to have some comfort back. But the biggest thing I've noticed? The tunes/settings that used to get -1.50 to -1.00 to -1.25 of knock corrections on randomly, now have.... 0.00 corrrections. I have only seen once correction in over a week now and it was a -0.32 on 1 cylinder and that's pretty normal actually. The race mount was DEFINITELY causing false knock.
I did lose some of the greater things about the stiff mount, but i think I'm going to sleeve it and save it for "track only" duty, which its very good at.
I asked Boomba about building a solution for the other mounts on the car, but they said it was not in the plan. Some one needs to address these other mounts. A 33%-45% increase in stiffness to all the mounts is a much better solution than having mounts made of chewing gum mixed 1 mount made of concrete.
Take that info for what it is
love it hate it debate it. I've just giving my personal findings to yall.
Bumping an old thread so i remember to post later about my comparison between my cobb mount (currently installed) and my cpe that i am going to replace it with. I do dd the car so im looking for performance and comfort, i will compare both once i get the cpe in, hopefully tonight! and then im going to sell which i like less lol
Similar threads
-
-
-
Best place to buy projector headlights?
- Started by Bpjr07
- Replies: 2
-
-
Best coilovers for street & track use? And yes under $1000…- Started by FiSTMorg
- Replies: 17
-
-
Best Bulbs for Euro Headlights
- Started by FLST
- Replies: 3
-
-
-
