The Official Creak, Rattle and other noise complaint thread

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#62
Hey I hope someone can help me out here. I just finished a 2k mile drive from California to Indiana and got her washed. As I left I got on the brakes at like 35-40 ish, and on the brakes the steering wheel started to vibrate, like shake as if the brakes were warped but I only have 5k miles on the car and we barely used the brakes on the drive over, nowhere near enough to wrap them. And it was like no problem, problem.
Hi there,

I want to loop in your customer service manager. Please send me a private message with your VIN, mileage, best daytime phone number, full name, and dealer name/location.

Meagan
 


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#63
Hi there,

I want to loop in your customer service manager. Please send me a private message with your VIN, mileage, best daytime phone number, full name, and dealer name/location.

Meagan
What would looping my customer service manager do? I only ask because right now I am in Bloomington Indiana but I intend to drive to champaign Illinois on Sunday and would need this looked at tomorrow morning. I have narrowed it down to happen when I am braking, usually it's when I hit 40 I start to feel it and then it gets worst at like 35 and then is gone by 30 or high 20s.
 


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#64
Would a warped rotor cause this behavior? The local ford service center said it might have been cooled too rapidly and cause it. We weren't driving it very hard though. He said it is covered by warranty though.
 


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#65
No such thing as warped rotors. This is pad deposit. ... keep driving and it will go away
 


rodmoe

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#68
Would a warped rotor cause this behavior? The local ford service center said it might have been cooled too rapidly and cause it. We weren't driving it very hard though. He said it is covered by warranty though.
IT could as they say and with Torque Vectoring as well as ESC on these cars front brakes can get hot without you even feeling or knowing it .. and if hot the quenched with cold water it could happen..
 


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#69
Also, pad deposit happens when your pads are warm and you sit on the pedal at a light, or if it rains, or if it is humid, the pad material" rusts" to the rotor
 


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#70
Also, pad deposit happens when your pads are warm and you sit on the pedal at a light, or if it rains, or if it is humid, the pad material" rusts" to the rotor
Well how long should this feel this way? Any way of expediting getting rid of it?
 


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#71
Well how long should this feel this way? Any way of expediting getting rid of it?
That depends on the severity of the deposit... getting your rotors turned, bedding the brakes, flash rusting them (spray down with hose and let air drug without moving the car) completely then bedding the brakes also works well
 


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#72
All of these would require jacking or lifting the car, correct? I would like to avoid that if possible but understand if it can't be avoided. How would I pitch this to ford service center without sounding like an *************************? Or should I let them figure it out?
 


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#73
Uhhh, spray the rotors with a hose, let them turn brown, then go bed the brakes
 


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#77
This seems to only apply to brand new rotors and pads?
This can be done at any time. The process creates a fresh mating surface between pad and rotor that allows for cohesive rather than abrasive friction
 


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#78
Does it really require braking that hard from 60-10 mph really hard ten times and then doing it again? Idk if I can find an area to do that safely...
 


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#79
You can do 45 to 5 10 Times. Just make sure you don't stop after the series... I usually make my last stop and then get on the highway for a bit
 


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#80
That still sounds exceedingly dangerous to be stopping down to 5 mph on a highway...
 


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