Parts to fix while doing slave

[WolfDampf]

Hi y'all! On a road trip from Houston to Dallas my clutch started acting up. 95% of the travel was dead with no resistance and the last 5% would barely have any pressure and had a 50/50 chance of disengaging the clutch enough to change gears. Whenever I changed gears it took a lot of patience and pumping till I hit the chance it disengaged enough to switch gears. I had my master cylinder replaced about 8k miles ago at the stealership(which makes me want to go ahead and change it again myself even though I do not see any leaks) so I'm guessing it's the slave. My brake fluid reservoir hasn't lowered at all but I do see leaks around the transmission.

If I'm dropping the trans I want to change everything that is a wear item especially since I'm at 105k miles. I'm also on a budget so if there is something I have here that is unnecessary let me know.

Is it worth getting an LSD? The car is a daily driver with some track days and from what I can see mfactory plus install kit is already another $1,000 then labor so not sure. How much extra labor does it add? Also does an LSD come with reliability concerns?

Anyone have experience with single mass flywheels and how many miles you've got on them? Seeing that a new DMF is 720$ and the COMPLETE whoosh stage 3 kit with SMF is 900$ makes me very tempted to go with that especially if it's a performance improvement. It is a sprung clutch so I'd think it should be okay? However I cannot sacrifice reliability and I am in stop and go traffic often in Houston AND I also like to drive low rpm while stop and go leaving a big gap, rather than moving forward and stopping like all the automatic drivers. Can I get used to the SMF or is it crippling on the street? Thanks for all the replies!

 

[16MagST]

I am doing mine soon. I bought all factory clutch parts, including the slave cylinder, clutch master cylinder, the hose in between, and I ordered a Pumaspeed trans with a LSD installed. It was hard to beat the price, and my car has 127k.

 

[WolfDampf]

I am doing mine soon. I bought all factory clutch parts, including the slave cylinder, clutch master cylinder, the hose in between, and I ordered a Pumaspeed trans with a LSD installed. It was hard to beat the price, and my car has 127k.

You got the part number for that hose? Mine don't lol to be leaking but maybe I should change it. Also clutch master cylinder is the one behind the pedal correct? Someone on the forum said that there's a master cylinder behind the pedal and a clutch cylinder which I've never heard of?

 

[16MagST]

You got the part number for that hose? Mine don't lol to be leaking but maybe I should change it. Also clutch master cylinder is the one behind the pedal correct? Someone on the forum said that there's a master cylinder behind the pedal and a clutch cylinder which I've never heard of?

Yes , coming from the import world, the setup is odd. Back side of the pedal is where the clutch master is. Slave and throw out bearing are integrated also. Clutch hose has orings that either go missing or get pinched. The hose was like $20 , so a no brainer, plus I have back up orings if something goes wrong.

 

[WolfDampf]

Yes , coming from the import world, the setup is odd. Back side of the pedal is where the clutch master is. Slave and throw out bearing are integrated also. Clutch hose has orings that either go missing or get pinched. The hose was like $20 , so a no brainer, plus I have back up orings if something goes wrong.

Thanks man! I just bled my clutch today and it's working fine again. I'll be very gentle with my car and keep bleeding when necessary while I save up for the repair. I'll definitely update after the repairs are done and let you know how the SMF is feeling.

 

[16MagST]

I toyed with the SMF idea, but I’m happy with the functionality of the transmission and shifter (Mountune QS). It’s an expensive trans, and some of the possible horror stories of thrust issues affecting the engine even turned me off to the idea.

 

[WolfDampf]

I haven't heard of the SMF causing engine issues. A new trans is around 2500$ if I go with Clarke or I can get junkyard ones for around 1100$. Its 200$ less to go with the whoosh SMF kit over OEM parts. Figured I'd try it out but I'm also not sure since I want the reliability and drivability. I'm hoping someone who has a SMF can chim in and help me decide for sure. Also if there isn't much a difference in response then its not worth it for me

 

[Sam4]

I haven't heard of the SMF causing engine issues. A new trans is around 2500$ if I go with Clarke or I can get junkyard ones for around 1100$. Its 200$ less to go with the whoosh SMF kit over OEM parts. Figured I'd try it out but I'm also not sure since I want the reliability and drivability. I'm hoping someone who has a SMF can chim in and help me decide for sure. Also if there isn't much a difference in response then its not worth it for me

All I can say about the SMF is...it's different. Went Clarke about 20K ago, awesome, but I'm still not confident with the pedal - like a new driver. It's hard to describe, but it's there. Single Mass from Woosh, RTS stage 1, slave, master @ 115K

 

[16MagST]

All I can say about the SMF is...it's different. Went Clarke about 20K ago, awesome, but I'm still not confident with the pedal - like a new driver. It's hard to describe, but it's there. Single Mass from Woosh, RTS stage 1, slave, master @ 115K

How is getting off the line, downshifting, and especially the mass reduction during acceleration?

 

[WolfDampf]

All I can say about the SMF is...it's different. Went Clarke about 20K ago, awesome, but I'm still not confident with the pedal - like a new driver. It's hard to describe, but it's there. Single Mass from Woosh, RTS stage 1, slave, master @ 115K

How is downshifting and getting off the line? Does it feel okay creeping in stop n go traffic? With stock setup I can go super slow in 1st gear at 1k rpm fully off the clutch pedal and creep just fine. And when you're shifting from 1-2 how fast do the revs drop compared to stock dmf?

 

[Zeille]

do rear main seal while you're in there with the trans out

 

[16MagST]

do rear main seal while you're in there with the trans out

I have it just in case.

 

[Sam4]

How is getting off the line, downshifting, and especially the mass reduction during acceleration?

Loooong throw, 140K - not racing anyone off the line - I still f*ck up 1st to 2nd when I'm flogging it! I still have plenty of break loose power, all kinds of clutch in there - but feathering 1st is all I've got ( fine by me). I'm on a Livernois tune, so no numbers for the data nerds...

 

[Sam4]

How is downshifting and getting off the line? Does it feel okay creeping in stop n go traffic? With stock setup I can go super slow in 1st gear at 1k rpm fully off the clutch pedal and creep just fine. And when you're shifting from 1-2 how fast do the revs drop compared to stock dmf?

No changes to creep - all the same with the clutch engaged. Perhaps its so completely light that I'm having trouble with the dance? Traffic's a complete bitch - surprise engagement point, hill's are not confident.

 

[16MagST]

Thank you for the feedback.

 

[WolfDampf]

@Sam4 does it chatter at all? From what you've said it seems the only difference is how the clutch engages which is fine with me so it's looking like I should go for it. Thanks

 

[WolfDampf]

Also do y'all think it's possible to change the clutch/flywheel by myself? I don't have a lift only Jack stands and none engine hoist. When I think labor is gonna be close to $2,000+ for clutch and LSD install I'm thinking maybe I should try it for myself and use that money to buy tools lol. My only worry is I have no help and the transmission might be heavy for me under the car alone

 

[16MagST]

Trans is not heavy, very similar to a Honda D series trans.

 

[arlisscm]

Also do y'all think it's possible to change the clutch/flywheel by myself? I don't have a lift only Jack stands and none engine hoist. When I think labor is gonna be close to $2,000+ for clutch and LSD install I'm thinking maybe I should try it for myself and use that money to buy tools lol. My only worry is I have no help and the transmission might be heavy for me under the car alone

I just dropped my transmission for the 3rd time on my own with just jack stands. Back when I did it the first time I picked up a transmission jack from Harbor Freight, which helps a lot. I added some wood cribbing to the jack to better support the goofy shape of our transmissions, but other than that, no issues. You do have to jack the car up fairly high to get the transmission out, I usually sneak it out the driver side wheel well. If you don't have a 6 point brace you can forego dropping the subframe, but dropping the subframe gives you a lot more room (I have the Pierce 6 point brace so I drop my subframe anyway). If you drop the subframe you may have to re-do your alignment as it can shift, I got the alignment bushings from Whoosh so now the subframe goes back in the same place. A few more things to disconnect when dropping the subframe but its not too bad.

 

[Sam4]

@Sam4 does it chatter at all? From what you've said it seems the only difference is how the clutch engages which is fine with me so it's looking like I should go for it. Thanks

It does not chatter