Whoosh RMM is shot

pixelzombie

Active member
Member ID
#12526
Messages
581
Likes
393
#1
It just didn't feel right when shifting or accelerating, and I'm glad it wasn't clutch related.

I'll have to order a new bushing, but is it safe to drive like this? The OEM is still in my garage.

Also, is it possible the the mount is probably damaged after a week of driving on it?

RMM.jpg
 


XR650R

2000 Post Club
Member ID
#1371
Messages
2,764
Likes
3,234
#2
You can determine that when you take it out.
 


Member ID
#11148
Messages
185
Likes
120
#3
I drove like that for a bit, the mount seemed fine. My front bushing was completely missing and the rear was damaged. I suspect you'll be fine until the new bushing arrives.
 


Member ID
#24930
Messages
323
Likes
286
#4
I may need to take a look at mine. I've been getting a clunk on aggressive WOT 1-2 shifts.
 


TyphoonFiST

9000 Post Club
Premium Account
Member ID
#3304
Messages
11,875
Likes
8,324
#5
Time for an AWR* 70 Durometer
 


OP
pixelzombie

pixelzombie

Active member
Member ID
#12526
Messages
581
Likes
393
Thread Starter #6
I may need to take a look at mine. I've been getting a clunk on aggressive WOT 1-2 shifts.
It felt off, but I couldn't tell if it was a clutch issue. It is definitely noticeable in city driving or when accelerating in the low gears as the heavy clunk does not sound normal. Mine started acting just after I put in a new IC, so I thought I had messed something up.
 


OP
pixelzombie

pixelzombie

Active member
Member ID
#12526
Messages
581
Likes
393
Thread Starter #7
Its amazing how quiet the car runs now with the new bushings. I literally thought I had an exhaust issue with the way it sounded while accelerating. The old one was dry as stale bread, I wonder how long they last in desert conditions. Also, there's very little sign of damage to the main part of the mount. I was worried that it was damaged with the pounding noise it was making.

IMG_20240815_174623.jpg
 


Member ID
#35472
Messages
6
Likes
3
#8
How long did that original bushing last? Just curious.

Also, it appears that they're using a different material for their new replacement bushings, which will hopefully last a bit longer.
I need a RMM for my newly acquired ST, but I haven't decided which one to get yet.
 


Member ID
#28426
Messages
207
Likes
176
#12
I would have said this until mine just exploded, going awr this time.
fair point. ultimately, there are a lot of options on the aftermarket, and killer is welcome to try any one he wants. i wish i could get vt, but i already have a whoosh that came on the car. i'm of the mindset "if it ain't broken, don't fix it" (most of the time, but this isn't entirely by choice)
 


TyphoonFiST

9000 Post Club
Premium Account
Member ID
#3304
Messages
11,875
Likes
8,324
#13
That's what I'm hearing.
The only bad thing with Vibratechnics is your cant replace the Bushings when they fail* AWR you can...FYI and you can change the durometer/ hardness of the mount if you want too! I have ran 4 different types of mounts over the course of the FiSTs life from new. i am currently on AWR all the way around with 70a Durometer. Either one is good choice! [driving]
 


Dialcaliper

1000 Post Club
Member ID
#23994
Messages
1,042
Likes
1,676
#14
The only bad thing with Vibratechnics is your cant replace the Bushings when they fail* AWR you can...FYI and you can change the durometer/ hardness of the mount if you want too! I have ran 4 different types of mounts over the course of the FiSTs life from new. i am currently on AWR all the way around with 70a Durometer. Either one is good choice! [driving]
True enough, but the whole reason to go Vibratechnics is that the rubber bushings will last a lot longer in the heat - sitting next to the catalyst is the main reason poly bushings are failing in the first place, even though they generally last longer that rubber in cases where they're not exposed to heat.
 


Similar threads



Top