Boost gauge installation

[Wez1987]

Hi guys can any one help me i wanna installe a boost gauge on my fiesta Mk7 ST but im not 100% sure where the vacum hose goes and so forth ,anybody have some step by step pic and instruction on how to do this ......

 

[Sourskittle]

You can grab the boost signal off the compressor outlet by adding a "T" into it. The issue with this is that you will be seeing compressor outlet pressure, not intake manifold pressure. On the other hand... The cobb access port displays and logs real manifold pressure, so as long as you tune by that, and just use the the manual in-car gauge for looks, that should work fine. It will read 1-2psi higher than your actual manifold pressure, but really, since your not using it for tuning, that's not a big deal.

 

[Sourskittle]

Also... ATP sells an adaptor for like $45 if you want to check them out. It will give you REAL intake manifold pressure/boost.

 

[Wez1987]

Thanx alot buddy for info

 

[Sekred]

What Sour said.
You can also tee-in just below the TB, its a bit of a pita but, you need fittings and clamps.

 

[treys1]

What Sour said.
You can also tee-in just above the TB, its a bit of a pita but, you need fittings and clamps.

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Do you remember what kind / size of line you used to replace the stock piece where you T'ed in?

Thanks!

 

[Sekred]

I think I used 1/4 fuel line hose.

 

[Slurp812]

Some sound symposer delete plugs have vacuum/boost ports.

 

[treys1]

1/4" was tight, but I got it on. It was really the best size as the T that came with the Autometer gauge has fairly small barbs.

The most bizarre thing started happening now though.... I zipped my wires along the same path as existing wires coming from driver pillar, left to right, behind the center console and over to the fuse box. There I tapped into the heated seat fuse position since I don't have heated seats. Now when I hit a bump just right the AC turns itself on from a completely off setting...... I have worked on my own cars since I was a teenager (40 now) and electrical is my strong point, so I would hope its just a coincidence and not something I did.

I routed the nylon line through the symposer as I have it blocked off with a plug where the tube connects to the box anyway. Closeup image is before I straightened the gauge.

 

[Spaceman_Spiff]

1/4" was tight, but I got it on. It was really the best size as the T that came with the Autometer gauge has fairly small barbs.

The most bizarre thing started happening now though.... I zipped my wires along the same path as existing wires coming from driver pillar, left to right, behind the center console and over to the fuse box. There I tapped into the heated seat fuse position since I don't have heated seats. Now when I hit a bump just right the AC turns itself on from a completely off setting...... I have worked on my own cars since I was a teenager (40 now) and electrical is my strong point, so I would hope its just a coincidence and not something I did.

I routed the nylon line through the symposer as I have it blocked off with a plug where the tube connects to the box anyway. Closeup image is before I straightened the gauge.

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That's awesome, nicely done! As someone who is really interested in installing gauges but hasn't ever done it, I'd like to ask a question: is all the wiring done in the cabin (ground, power, etc.) and then run the appropriate wire(s) to the sensor in the engine compartment, or is there wiring to be done under the hood also? your install looks really clean, I really like it.

 

[treys1]

Thanks!

The wiring is all under the dash, run down from the driver pillar and over to the passenger side to the fuse panel behind the glove box. Then there is a 1/8" nylon pressure line run through the firewall up to the front of the engine and T'ed in before that check valve. (2nd to last image)

 

[CanadianGuy]

That is quite an elegant solution. Might steal it.

 

[treys1]

That is quite an elegant solution. Might steal it.

It did work out pretty well.

 

[treys1]

Daylight view: