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411 clay bar & dual action polisher

jeff

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#1
Hey if you have experience, tips and tricks please chime in.

I've never delved into clay bar and electric polishers but lots of time at home lately caused me to "1-click" a few products. Not for my Fiesta, I keep it waxed and garaged....this is for my beater Prelude that lives outside and could use some love.

If you have any helpful suggestions about using these products I'd love to hear before I tackle it.

Here's what I bought:

Clay bar
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Polisher
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KHP9BW9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


 


TyphoonFiST

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#2
Buy the Mothers claybar 2.0. Soooo much easier to deal with! I've used it and it works awesome!


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Ford ST

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#3
That's the same polisher I have it will work well. I have also used that clay bar kit.
This is the product I recommend using with that polisher https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081KXJO0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I ran the polisher at full speed with that product as well.


I didn't use the pads it came with I used a chemical guys green pads.



 


Last edited:
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#4
There's a yootube guy, Dallas Detailing I think, that has a lot of articles on paint correction and all of the different dual action polishers, and different compounds, etc. Good stuff.

I have a Griots long throw DA polisher, the bigger one, can't remember the name. Yours will do just as well, perhaps less comfortable to hold long term. The red Griots fast cut polish is incredibly efficient and and fairly safe with a proper DA.
 


CSM

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#5
Hey Jeff,

I'll chime in. I'm no expert but have spent about 7 years learning the ropes, using variety of products and even doing a few detailings on the side.
  • IME all clay bars i've used are the same. I prefer Optimum No Rinse Wash (ONR) for my clay bar lubricants and maintenance washes. At 1:256 dilution its great for maintenance wash, and 1:64 dilution its great for clay bar lubricant and a quick detailer. Remember when done with clay bar, do a quick wash or an ethanol spray/wipe to get rid of any residue before going to the polish step. Remember if you drop a clay, toss it.
  • Like @Ford ST, I am a HUGE fan of HD Speed all-in-one polish and wax. It has a decent amount of abrasives and is REALLY easy to work with compared to other products on the market. Only downside is that the wax is Montan wax which doesn't last as long as others. After using HD Speed, I always add another layer of wax, usually Collinite 845, on top of the HD Speed during my first maintenance wash. If your prelude has been in the elements for a while, I would recommend using something more aggressive than polishing pads. I like meguiars microfiber cutting pads with HD Speed for more aggressive projects. You will probably need quite a few pads for the first detail on the Prelude. As the pads dirty switch them out. Its easier to have extra on hand rather than having to wash/dry pads after they get dirty
 


Ford ST

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#7
Recent results with HD Speed + Meg's cutting pad
I have always kept my vehicle's clean and waxed, but I never had a polisher until this year. After seeing how good your paint looks I decided I needed a polisher. It's a lot easier than I thought. I love 3D speed so easy to use. I even did my windows with it.

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CSM

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#8
I have always kept my vehicle's clean and waxed, but I never had a polisher until this year. After seeing how good your paint looks I decided I needed a polisher. It's a lot easier than I thought. I love 3D speed so easy to use. I even did my windows with it.

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3D speed is a REALLY forgiving product.

I am a REALLY big fan of M105 and M205 from Meguiar's for more serious needs, and the shine when used properly is unparalleled, but they are 1) hard to work with from dusting standpoint and 2) you really need to tape off trim panels as they can mess with trim pretty easily. No issues with 3D speed
 


vmaxbaby

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#9
The mothers speed clay is great like another member said, I also have the clay bars themselves but the speed clay is faster to use because you don't have to keep tearing apart the clay bar and remolding it to your palm. I have the same brand polisher I got 4 years ago and it works great. Bought pads from the chemical guys as well. Normally use the white pad with polish and used wolfgang polish along with I have used Meguiars Polish can't really tell any difference in shine. After that I use a good sealant wax that I apply with a black pad that has no cut to it. The white pad has just a very slight cut to help remove fine scratches. The different color pads have different amount of cut to them bad swirls I have an orange pad but normally that is used on my friends that don't take care of their paint and want to come to my garage for a clean up.
 


OP
jeff

jeff

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Thread Starter #10
Thanks guys.

Just did the clay bar, nice results, the car actually looks worse but I think that's the point. It seems to have removed all the wax and etc, it's super smooth now but all the blemishes I'd hidden are now exposed. Time to start the polish process.

So I've watched a bunch of videos and I'm confused....I have a variety of waxes but I'm not understanding the difference between "wax" and "polish"....the lines seem to be blended. I have serious swirling all over the car - it's really bad in the sun. From what I understand I need to start with a grittier wax and then do a second run with a polish. It doesn't help that the polisher I bought has all these attachments but doesn't tell you which ones are the more abrasive...I'm thinking the black is the heavier one and the yellow is the finer one, and the white is the "polisher"....
 


Ford ST

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#11
So the different categories of compounds/paint products.
Compounds are abrasive they are used to remove heavier paint issues. They can vary from mild to aggressive. Aggressive compounds we'll leave the paint with a haze you have to use a polish after them. Actually you should use a polish after any compound.
Then you have one step products which is what I used It has light abrasives in it. It helps remove swirls, love marks from washing, and some water spots plus helps add gloss.

And you have polish some have abrasives and some have zero nothing but filler.


You also have cleaner waxes a wax with a minor abrasive in it.

I believe in that kit that you bought the yellow pad would be more for compounds or it could be used for a one-step product. The black pad would also be good for a one-step or polish.

The black pad feels significantly softer to me less density.





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Ford ST

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#12
I don't know if any of the auto parts stores around you sell a one-step product but that's what I would recommend..

You could also go to Walmart and pick up a bottle of meguiar's ultimate compound, and ultimate polish.
Both are safe highly rated products.

https://canadiangearhead.com/all-in-one-polish-vs-one-step-correction-difference/





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Last edited:

CSM

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#14
Thanks guys.

Just did the clay bar, nice results, the car actually looks worse but I think that's the point. It seems to have removed all the wax and etc, it's super smooth now but all the blemishes I'd hidden are now exposed. Time to start the polish process.

So I've watched a bunch of videos and I'm confused....I have a variety of waxes but I'm not understanding the difference between "wax" and "polish"....the lines seem to be blended. I have serious swirling all over the car - it's really bad in the sun. From what I understand I need to start with a grittier wax and then do a second run with a polish. It doesn't help that the polisher I bought has all these attachments but doesn't tell you which ones are the more abrasive...I'm thinking the black is the heavier one and the yellow is the finer one, and the white is the "polisher"....
In general DA polishers work by creating heat through abrasion (abrasion from the pad material and grit in the chemistry). The heat literally removes the surface imperfections in the top coat and melts the coat down to an even level so that all swirls are gone.
  • Compound - More abrasive chemistry. Analogous to course sandpaper. Literally has grit (usually aluminum or silica based particles) designed to tear down the heavy swirls and scratches. These will usually leave the paint in a "hazy" state. That is by design. You need to use a more aggressive compound or cutting pad with these for best results.
  • Polish - Designed to remove lighter swirl marks and the haze left behind by a compound chemistry. Has grit but not as aggressive as compound. Use with a polish pad or a finishing pad for best results
  • Waxes - Designed to be used on the top of a finished exterior detail. They are a protective layer from the elements.
You always want to put the paint under a strong light and do a test surface first. Start with least aggressive (mild polish and a polish pad) and run the orbital. If you can still see swirls, go to a more aggressive pad. If you still see swirls, go to a more aggressive pad AND a more aggressive chemistry. Keep doing that until the surface looks good, then thats what you should use for the whole car.

If your car is REALLY bad I would probably recommend picking up a bottle of Meguiar's M205. Its an extremely versatile product. I would also pick up some meguiar's cutting pad and a Lake Country Light cutting pad. Start with M205 + the LC pad. See how it looks. If paint is still marred, go with the Meguiar's pad which is more aggressive. If that STILL doesn't work you need to go with something more aggressive, like Meguiar's M105.

I don't like the pads included with DA polishers. IME they have been garbage to work with. I had a waxing pad literally fall apart on me when I got my DA. I usually just by Lake Country pads, they've been great.
 


OP
jeff

jeff

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Thread Starter #15
Ah, for the old days when all you had was rubbing compound, polishing compound, and wax.
Yeah man seriously.

So thanks to all...the above post pretty much wraps up my experience. I've been detailing cars since I got my license in 1988. Back then it was simple; nowadays there are so many products and methods, hence my confusion. I've probably used 30 different kinds of waxes/polishes over the years. But now I wanted to do it "right", so I got the clay kit and machine.

Honestly, after watching a few hours of videos I became more confused. Everyone has a technique or trick or "must have" product. In the end, I just went out there and did what I felt was right. I likely didn't do the "correct" procedure on the car but I'm happy with the results.

I went in this order...
1, wash and dry
2, Mother's clay bar
3, wash and dry
4, wax with machine (Mother's brazilian jui-jitsu carnauba WAX)
5, polish with machine (Turtle Wax color magic black POLISH)
6, polish by hand (Car Guys hybrid wax spray)

I'm beat, the car is still in the garage and I haven't seen it in the sun but I must say I think it is smoother and shinier than ever. The swirl marks are likely still there (will see once it's in the sun) but it looks pretty good for a $2900 car. This is my first clay bar and it really did smooth things out. The paint really feels like glass and the reflections are really vivid.

Notice the one with my Fiesta in the reflection of the Prelude paint....

Thanks again...I probably did this wrong but I'm still learning.









 


OP
jeff

jeff

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Thread Starter #17
OK got it out in the sun, swirls are definitely less and it looks pretty jazzy. I think there is a way to buff/wet sand that might even eliminate the swirls but I'm not going in that deep.

Here are some pictures:



 


TyphoonFiST

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#18
The Turtle wax black box is one of my Favorite for black vehicles as I have owned so many of them. You can purchase it at any local parts store for around $20. Look nice though until you go for a drive and get some of that Georgia DUST ON IT! [driving]
 


Ford ST

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Next time you order from Amazon just try some 3D speed you will love it. Order some nice pads with it. You will like it so much you will want to do everything you own.

Looks good though

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TyphoonFiST

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Next time you order from Amazon just try some 3D speed you will love it. Order some nice pads with it. You will like it so much you will want to do everything you own.

Looks good though

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Link?
 




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