Well, now that I have over 80,000 miles on the car, it is time to start messing.
I purchased the Wilwood Brakes and BC Coilovers from 2J Racing (springs for the rear were selected to support subwoofers). I am having a problem with the drivers side rotor as it is out of round from Wilwood. I have sent information to Wilwood and we will see if they stand behind their product. If they do not, as a backup because I am so knee deep in it now, I had purchased a set of the solid rotors to swap out this weekend if Wilwood decides to not stand behind their product. Yes these are out of round from the factory and it is not the first set I have ever bought from them that was like that. Check them with a micrometer before installing if you buy the wilwoods from 2J racing.
I just got in the Motegi MR117 wheels, I have test fitted (you can see under Wheel section) them but waiting to make sure they fit with the BC coilovers.
I have purchased the 6 way support from Pierce Motorsports and the strut tower brace. It will be here tomorrow for the install this weekend.
As I am in the car a whole lot, the stereo is a must,
In my possession and waiting for weather to warm up is the following.
Pioneer PRS-80 and Microsoft Surface, these will be my source units.
Front stage is a Audison Thesis 1.5 Violino Tweeter, (4) Focal K-2 4" drivers 2 for each side. Focal K2 6.5" for the doors and (2) JL Audio 10W7AE-3 subwoofers. All processing will be done with (2) Behringer 2496 Ultra drives one for each side and EQ'd through a Behringer Ultracurve Pro 2496. Behringers will be connected using a sine wave inverter to reduce noise. Amps are JL Audio 900/5 HD. While in my opinion, these are not the best on the planet, they are class D (low power drawing), and small, and 5 channels each, so that is 100 watts per speaker and 500 watts per sub for a total of 1800.
I really do not want to swap out the electrical system, but I will if I must.
Once all of this is installed then I will be addressing the power situation. For the moment my intentions are to go with a setup from www.pumaspeed.com unless someone here in the states comes up with something better. They have been working on these cars for years and have such a head start on anyone here in the US. More than likely like every other project I have done I will rebuild the engine to support the power and maintain drivability. I will not be racing this car.
Im waiting to see if someone will grab the 2.7 ecoboost motor out of the truck and do a swap. (THATS WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT) and don't tell me it wont fit. I know better. I may be the first. The bolt on stuff is nice, but buy the time you add up all of that stuff versus the actual gains, the 2.7 seems very appealing. IMHO.
A little about me,
I judged IASCA for 12 years and competed in their Expert Class 601+ for 4. The last audio car I built was in Car Stereo Review April 1999. (that where all of the over kill on the audio system comes from). The car also appeared in Car Stereo of the UK and Car Sound of Japan. It was a 1986 Pontiac Fiero, with over $100,000 in sound system. The VP of Marketing from Pioneer out of Japan tried to get me to sell them the car at the Dallas Finals. Not very Japanese in the car, but the modifications to the RS-P50 they wanted and wanted bad.![[rofl]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_rofl.gif "ROFL [rofl]")
I ended up giving them the schematic from the modifications.
The last car I built was a 2006 GTO which made 1000 RWHP 402 ALU SB with LS1 Spyder intake. The one before it which you can see on Prochargers website was a 1999 Pontiac Trans Am which made 822 RWHP LS1 C5R ALU SB with F1R blower 427 CI. These were both supercharged vehicles. So the whole turbo thing is new to me, but I love the car so far. The last one I had that didn't need touching was the 2008 Corvette Z06 which I setup for Audison as a booth car. That car was so much fun.
I will post pictures on Sunday after the install is done.
I purchased the Wilwood Brakes and BC Coilovers from 2J Racing (springs for the rear were selected to support subwoofers). I am having a problem with the drivers side rotor as it is out of round from Wilwood. I have sent information to Wilwood and we will see if they stand behind their product. If they do not, as a backup because I am so knee deep in it now, I had purchased a set of the solid rotors to swap out this weekend if Wilwood decides to not stand behind their product. Yes these are out of round from the factory and it is not the first set I have ever bought from them that was like that. Check them with a micrometer before installing if you buy the wilwoods from 2J racing.
I just got in the Motegi MR117 wheels, I have test fitted (you can see under Wheel section) them but waiting to make sure they fit with the BC coilovers.
I have purchased the 6 way support from Pierce Motorsports and the strut tower brace. It will be here tomorrow for the install this weekend.
As I am in the car a whole lot, the stereo is a must,
In my possession and waiting for weather to warm up is the following.
Pioneer PRS-80 and Microsoft Surface, these will be my source units.
Front stage is a Audison Thesis 1.5 Violino Tweeter, (4) Focal K-2 4" drivers 2 for each side. Focal K2 6.5" for the doors and (2) JL Audio 10W7AE-3 subwoofers. All processing will be done with (2) Behringer 2496 Ultra drives one for each side and EQ'd through a Behringer Ultracurve Pro 2496. Behringers will be connected using a sine wave inverter to reduce noise. Amps are JL Audio 900/5 HD. While in my opinion, these are not the best on the planet, they are class D (low power drawing), and small, and 5 channels each, so that is 100 watts per speaker and 500 watts per sub for a total of 1800.
I really do not want to swap out the electrical system, but I will if I must.
Once all of this is installed then I will be addressing the power situation. For the moment my intentions are to go with a setup from www.pumaspeed.com unless someone here in the states comes up with something better. They have been working on these cars for years and have such a head start on anyone here in the US. More than likely like every other project I have done I will rebuild the engine to support the power and maintain drivability. I will not be racing this car.
Im waiting to see if someone will grab the 2.7 ecoboost motor out of the truck and do a swap. (THATS WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT) and don't tell me it wont fit. I know better. I may be the first. The bolt on stuff is nice, but buy the time you add up all of that stuff versus the actual gains, the 2.7 seems very appealing. IMHO.
A little about me,
I judged IASCA for 12 years and competed in their Expert Class 601+ for 4. The last audio car I built was in Car Stereo Review April 1999. (that where all of the over kill on the audio system comes from). The car also appeared in Car Stereo of the UK and Car Sound of Japan. It was a 1986 Pontiac Fiero, with over $100,000 in sound system. The VP of Marketing from Pioneer out of Japan tried to get me to sell them the car at the Dallas Finals. Not very Japanese in the car, but the modifications to the RS-P50 they wanted and wanted bad.
I ended up giving them the schematic from the modifications. The last car I built was a 2006 GTO which made 1000 RWHP 402 ALU SB with LS1 Spyder intake. The one before it which you can see on Prochargers website was a 1999 Pontiac Trans Am which made 822 RWHP LS1 C5R ALU SB with F1R blower 427 CI. These were both supercharged vehicles. So the whole turbo thing is new to me, but I love the car so far. The last one I had that didn't need touching was the 2008 Corvette Z06 which I setup for Audison as a booth car. That car was so much fun.
I will post pictures on Sunday after the install is done.
