Calling all road race/circuit race/autocross people of all levels

[Fusion Works]

You don’t have to but get new hub bolts. They’re technically stretch bolts and shouldn’t be reused but I reused them and they didn’t feel like they were going to break when reinstalling.
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Please stop giving advice that could get someone killed. You have no idea what you are talking about.

 

[Dialcaliper]

I got the ones that @Dpro sells and it got me around 2 degrees of camber. Cheap and get the job done. I’ve thrown the car into T6 at Harris Hill around 85-90mph and it stayed planted. Definitely worth it. Don’t worry about tire wear, it hasn’t made a noticeable difference. You don’t have to but get new hub bolts. They’re technically stretch bolts and shouldn’t be reused but I reused them and they didn’t feel like they were going to break when reinstalling.

Link:
https://www.fiestastforum.com/threa...-nominal-negative-camber-for-your-fist.22474/

I’m going to agree that reusing the torque-to-yield bolts is an extremely bad idea and potentially dangerous to do.

The way torque-to-yield bolts work is that they take advantage of the “hump” in the strain curve between the elastic yield point (where it starts permanently deforming instead of returning to its original length) and the peak ultimate strength. Basically the bolt work hardens and gets stronger as the crystals smoosh together (vaguely similar to cold forging). After the peak stress point, the metal starts forming internal micro cracks, and the strength falls off until it completely separates.

The torque angle is designed to stretch the bolt near, but not beyond the peak strength. If you installed per the instructions, the bolt will stretch the same amount *beyond* the peak and begin partial failure before you’ve even put forces on it, but it probably won’t break off. A third time it probably will. With the reduced strength, you’d be better off installing a 10 cent grade 2/Class 4 bolt from Home Depot.

If you only torqued it to the “pre-torque” value, you’ve not applied enough preload and the bolt is under torqued. The pre torque value in the instructions is just high enough to preload the bolt beyond the inconsistent “first contact” point so that the actual torque can be accurately applied based on angle.

The only way you could even consider reusing a stretch bolt is by returning it to exactly the same final length as measured with a very accurate caliper or micrometer as it was when previously torqued, but even then it’s really not worth it because being off by even 0.005” in length measurement is bad.

 

[fk8fist]

People are reading into this “build” too much I think.
I’ve already said the car is for fun, not to be competitive, and essentially do what I want. I’m not gonna run points in a season and compete in anything. I’ve always had awd or rwd cars until my SVT Focus. I loved it but sold it because parts were becoming a pita to find and I originally bought it for my ex wife. This is the next best thing.
LSD is def gonna be essential for pulling the car out of corners better. Something I’ve already been looking into.

 

[faust]

if you haven't played with lower hot pressures on the rear tires, that seems like it'd be worthwhile. When autocrossing, I've been happy with hot rears at 35-36 psi (215/45r16 rt660s).

 

[fk8fist]

Question. What is everyone’s street driving tire pressure vs their track pressures(when applicable)?

 

[Jabbit]

Question. What is everyone’s street driving tire pressure vs their track pressures(when applicable)?

I run re71r for a few more months then they will be done. They are happy around 35ish on the street. I drop them to probably 25 cold then get them back up to low/mid-30s on the track.

 

[kevinatfms]

36/33 on 225/45R15 on the street cold.

30/28 on 225/45R15 at the track starting cold. Adjust as they heat up to 33/30 while hot. If i get any understeer ill dial in a psi or two out back to get some rotation.

 

[slyez]

I think the car can be competitive, despite all of its shortcomings. Its also plenty fun on the street and the track. Sounds like the build plan you had suggested is similar to the route we went. Feel free to send us PM for any questions you have on our streetable track build. See signature for the link.

 

[kevinatfms]

I think the car can be competitive, despite all of its shortcomings. Its also plenty fun on the street and the track. Sounds like the build plan you had suggested is similar to the route we went. Feel free to send us PM for any questions you have on our streetable track build. See signature for the link.

It mops up in HS class autocross.

For track competition, i think a full on build in Gridlife Club TR would be an ideal spot if you run to the letter of the law. It might be competitive in that class if you could fit enough tire under the car.

 

[slyez]

It mops up in HS class autocross.

For track competition, i think a full on build in Gridlife Club TR would be an ideal spot if you run to the letter of the law. It might be competitive in that class if you could fit enough tire under the car.

Its competitive in NASA TT5. They give some modification for having FWD and for not having double A arm suspension design. Being boosted and having electronic throttle allow you to tune it to give a good flat HP curve to maximize the advantage there.

The most tire we have been able to fit without cutting fenders is 245/40/15, and thats with a bunch of trial and error with wheel offset, bolt pattern, and spacers. Not sure there is much in wider sizes that are close to the stock fiesta rolling diameter. There are 275/35/15 Hoosiers however, but it would need quite the fender hack up and difficult brake and rim search.

Also, from our HS other Fiesta ST the past 2 years, it seems like the newest gen Civics are a significantly better platform.

 

[kevinatfms]

Its competitive in NASA TT5. They give some modification for having FWD and for not having double A arm suspension design. Being boosted and having electronic throttle allow you to tune it to give a good flat HP curve to maximize the advantage there.

The most tire we have been able to fit without cutting fenders is 245/40/15, and thats with a bunch of trial and error with wheel offset, bolt pattern, and spacers. Not sure there is much in wider sizes that are close to the stock fiesta rolling diameter. There are 275/35/15 Hoosiers however, but it would need quite the fender hack up and difficult brake and rim search.

Also, from our HS other Fiesta ST the past 2 years, it seems like the newest gen Civics are a significantly better platform.

A 245/40R15 on a 15x9 wheel would be killer. Braid wheels could make them, just spec the offset correctly. I doubt you would need more tire than that on stock turbo. I do wonder if i could fit a 245/40R15 on my 15x8 +35 wheels and HSD coilovers. Might be worth a shot.

Id say i agree about the newest gen Civics(2021+) but it was an older gen Civic(2019) that won nationals and another that came in second place. So, is it the Civic is a better platform or that no top tier Fiesta ST's were present?

 

[slyez]

Id say i agree about the newest gen Civics(2021+) but it was an older gen Civic(2019) that won nationals and another that came in second place. So, is it the Civic is a better platform or that no top tier Fiesta ST's were present?

Sorry, I thought they were all the latest gen civic, I still think the 2019 civic is better than a Fiesta. They can fit 255 tires, and have adjustable alignment.

You can fit 245,45 on those, but they are a little cantilevered. You will also peobably need spacers to not hit the strut oin the front.

We switched to 4x100 for track days to use miata/civic 15x9 for the 245, and just use 15x8 with 205 or 225 on rear.

 

[Mlcobra85]

I also believe the fiesta is a good chassis for a tracka car despite the short comings. I'm duking it out on track with 60-100+k cars. Panozs, Gt350rs, 911s, Caymans, M3s, C6/7/8 vettes, etc. All while on 205 or 225 v730s. I do make 380hp though so that helps but these cars can be made pretty fast for way less money than the big boys. My setup FBO 2860 e50 XDI HPFP and injectors, swift springs b6 shocks(soon to be FA510s), 15x8 +35 wheels, Mfactory LSD, -2.5F -2R camber, Autopower roll bar, Reyland/APracing Front brakes and svt rotors/brackets rear, Hotchkis RSB, TB 4pt brace Verus canards, MGC hatch mounted wing, 30-32psi FandR Hot on the v730s. Federal rsrrs I ran 33-34psi hot. So tire pressure should be lower than the door says while hot.

 

[Jabbit]

I also believe the fiesta is a good chassis for a tracka car despite the short comings. I'm duking it out on track with 60-100+k cars. Panozs, Gt350rs, 911s, Caymans, M3s, C6/7/8 vettes, etc. All while on 205 or 225 v730s. I do make 380hp though so that helps but these cars can be made pretty fast for way less money than the big boys. My setup FBO 2860 e50 XDI HPFP and injectors, swift springs b6 shocks(soon to be FA510s), 15x8 +35 wheels, Mfactory LSD, -2.5F -2R camber, Autopower roll bar, Reyland/APracing Front brakes and svt rotors/brackets rear, Hotchkis RSB, TB 4pt brace Verus canards, MGC hatch mounted wing, 30-32psi FandR Hot on the v730s. Federal rsrrs I ran 33-34psi hot. So tire pressure should be lower than the door says while hot.

Do you have install pictures of the MGC wing?

 

[Mlcobra85]

Do you have install pictures of the MGC wing?

 

[Jabbit]

Thanks! Specifically looking for pictures during install, like the areas you cut under the hatch/etc.

 

[Woods247]

Thanks! Specifically looking for pictures during install, like the areas you cut under the hatch/etc.

I’ll take better pics when I’m with my car again later this week

 

[Jabbit]

Awesome thank you!!