Can you pull rear shock top nuts through interior?

[FiST_Pounder]

I don't see any "how-to's" on the site? Anyway, I put on some Koni Yellows last night, which require essentially removal for adjustments. (I'm on stock springs) Pulling the tops is a bit nasty process. So...can you pull some interior and access the nuts? If so, how do you hold the piston shaft from rotating? I felt it in there, but thought you might need a deep socket, which would not allow you to hold the very end of it from turning.

 

[The_Ryan]

why wouldn't you just pull the shock with mount with it as one piece? if you're not lowered too much you could probably even do it without lifting the car.

But if you're determined: I use an off-set box wrench and put a hex bit in to take the mount off. There are also special strut/shock mount sockets that will let use use the allen to hold the piston shaft.

 

[Djkid1456]

If I recall correctly, the strut is secured by a bolt into the metal of the car that is threaded. I do not recall there being a nut to access in the inside of the car, but it's been some time since I installed my coils. I recall using a long extension to make the job easier. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

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[FiST_Pounder]

I can feel the actual shock shaft top 1/2" under the interior fabric - the nut seems down a bit. My pinkie fit through the hole when I had the whole thing out, so I think a 10mm socket would fit. Maybe you need one of the sockets that is open on the end to allow a shaft to run through the socket? else grip the rod below somehow without damaging it - maybe like rubber jaws on vice grips.

 

[Pablo Pistoffo]

To adjust the rear Konis. they have to be removed and pulled to their full extension before you rotate the shaft to adjust. It's an annoying setup if you need to adjust them frequently. The top nut attaches the shaft to a shoe that bolts into the car- I don't see how you could do it with the shocks on the car.

 

[Djkid1456]

To adjust the rear Konis. they have to be removed and pulled to their full extension before you rotate the shaft to adjust. It's an annoying setup if you need to adjust them frequently. The top nut attaches the shaft to a shoe that bolts into the car- I don't see how you could do it with the shocks on the car.

Drop the bottom strut bolt while the cars lifted so you can extend it fully perhaps? And then adjust the bolt from the inside.

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[Pablo Pistoffo]

You'd still have to cut a hole in some metal, I think. This is what the top mount looks like- the center hole is for the strut (the shaft comes up from underneath), and then there are two bolts that go up from the bottom and into the body. It's not THAT hard to pull them, you just have to feel around for both of the bolts. Use a jack under the axle to keep it slightly compressed, and note that your springs will pop out when you let the axle down completely.

 

[FiST_Pounder]

What I'm saying is that when I removed the mount, pictured, there's a little hole that lets the threads of the shock rod protrude 1/2" into the hatch area. The hole it goes through is the size of a pinkie finger. So I think you don't need to pull the mount at all. Just loosten the nut from inside and it will drop out. No dust in your face, no fender well fabric hide-and-seek, no hole finding, no loctite removal and re-apply, no torquing. Just one nut and it falls out. Normally no big deal, but I may have to remove both shocks like 8 times to dial in the damping I want.

 

[Pablo Pistoffo]

What I'm saying is that when I removed the mount, pictured, there's a little hole that lets the threads of the shock rod protrude 1/2" into the hatch area. The hole it goes through is the size of a pinkie finger. So I think you don't need to pull the mount at all. Just loosten the nut from inside and it will drop out. No dust in your face, no fender well fabric hide-and-seek, no hole finding, no loctite removal and re-apply, no torquing. Just one nut and it falls out. Normally no big deal, but I may have to remove both shocks like 8 times to dial in the damping I want.

It'd be interesting to try, and I certainly don't want to dissuade you from it- I've moved on from the Konis, myself, partially because the adjustments were a pain.

 

[kevinatfms]

I still think Koni fucked up on the rear shock adjustment design. Stupid stupid stupid design.

 

[Djkid1456]

Never had Koni's but I'm glad my BCs have an adjustment dial accessible from the fender without removal.

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[kevinatfms]

Never had Koni's but I'm glad my BCs have an adjustment dial accessible from the fender without removal.

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Exact reason why i went Bilsteins. Saw that Koni B.S. and said "F-it". Got Bilstein B8's shortly after and have been quite happy since.

 

[FiST_Pounder]

geesh guys I thought I just scored on an open box pair of new rear yellows for $110 and now I feel such a putz....

 

[Pablo Pistoffo]

geesh guys I thought I just scored on an open box pair of new rear yellows for $110 and now I feel such a putz....

They aren't bad shocks- I just think they are a pain to adjust. You got a great deal!

 

[Djkid1456]

They aren't bad shocks- I just think they are a pain to adjust. You got a great deal!

Agreed. Once they're dialed in its really no big deal. Good job and getting such a deal.

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[FORZDA 2]

Uhmm, the Koni rears must be COMPRESSED fully to engage the adjuster, not extended.

 

[FORZDA 2]

The rear shocks do NOT need to be removed to adjust. You do need to support the axle/wheel and remove the bottom bolt, compress the shock fully until the adjuster engages and then rotate the lower shock body to your desired position. It is not difficult. The rear Koni compress-to-adjust design is at least 60 years old, likely older and their shocks are simply the best on the market (for the price) with lifetime warranty, full factory support, and can be re-valved to whatever setup you desire. Koni was building quality shocks for enthusiasts when most of you folks were just a sperm cell.

 

[kevinatfms]

The rear shocks do NOT need to be removed to adjust. You do need to support the axle/wheel and remove the bottom bolt, compress the shock fully until the adjuster engages and then rotate the lower shock body to your desired position. It is not difficult. The rear Koni compress-to-adjust design is at least 60 years old, likely older and their shocks are simply the best on the market (for the price) with lifetime warranty, full factory support, and can be re-valved to whatever setup you desire. Koni was building quality shocks for enthusiasts when most of you folks were just a sperm cell.

60 years of making dampers and they couldnt find a better way to adjust them on a Fiesta ST.

Call me a sperm all you want but its a stupid fucking design.

 

[FiST_Pounder]

But how can you compress the shock fully with the bump stop still on the rod? Don't you need to pull the top nut and remove the stop first? I'm wanting to only pull the top nut thru the interior, keeping the lower bolt on. Then just pull the rod down fully and adjust that way. Not sure if there's enough rod showing below the dust boot to grab it tho, without looking.

 

[FORZDA 2]

But how can you compress the shock fully with the bump stop still on the rod? Don't you need to pull the top nut and remove the stop first? I'm wanting to only pull the top nut thru the interior, keeping the lower bolt on. Then just pull the rod down fully and adjust that way. Not sure if there's enough rod showing below the dust boot to grab it tho, without looking.

Yes, any bump stop must be removed from the shaft to fully compress and adjust the shock rebound damping... I was thinking of my Mazdaspeed6 where the bump stops were chassis mounted, rather than on the shock rod. In your case, I don't think you can hold the rod fully compressed and turn it. The shock does have low pressure inside that makes it a bit difficult to compress it fully and hold it there while feeling for the adjuster to engage and then turn it very gently. If you're too rough with the adjuster, it will bend and permanently disengage unless to shock is disassembled and repaired.

As I'm thinking about my Fiesta setup done years ago, I set the rears to 1/4 turn from full hard and that worked great for autocross without being too skittish on the street. I did have the rear twist beam clamped and added a sway bar too. It wasn't a good street setup for anyone who wasn't familiar with it. Of course, no one but me ever drives my toys...