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Clutch Replacement Question: Transmission Removal requires Subframe Removal?

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HB
#1
Hi Everyone,

My question is about replacing the clutch and if you have to follow the Ford's Service Manual guide on completely removing the subframe? Can you drop out the transmission to replace the clutch and flywheel without removing the subframe?

It seems like there is enough room to skip that step so I wanted to ask those who have done it before. Haven't seen any videos after searching online on a clutch replacement so I'll see I can put one together when I do.

Also, do you need to use that large Ford motor support for the transmission removal? Can you get by with just supporting the motor with a jack stand?

I've been starting to get clutch chatter when I release the clutch somewhat quickly in 1st and 2nd gear (and other higher gears sometimes). It's kind of a loud metal "Bang" almost every time I release the clutch quickly and am applying power. I was thinking initially it was the RMM so I replaced it with a Cobb RMM and that didn't fix it. My other potential suspect was the bushing atop of the strut mount on the passenger side (sounds like it is coming from there) but after I did a bunch of clutch releases from stop the "Bang" seems to happen regardless of how the car is positioned (hill, turned, etc).

I wouldn't be surprised if my clutch is worn out from the way I drive it. I'm about to be on my 3rd brake change before 40k miles. However, my brake fluid is a bit low right now so after I do the brakes I'll see if it goes away (maybe just a low fluid hydraulic issue, but ill see).

Thanks all,
 


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Location
Mount Dora
#3
I didn't remove the subframe or even touch it when I dropped mine to put in an LSD and lightweight flywheel. It can be a real PITA trying to get it into the perfect position to clear the body though
 


OP
A
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Location
HB
Thread Starter #4
I didn't remove the subframe or even touch it when I dropped mine to put in an LSD and lightweight flywheel. It can be a real PITA trying to get it into the perfect position to clear the body though
Sounds good thanks for the info!
 


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119
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121
Location
West Chester, PA, USA
#9
Add me to the 'nope, no need to remove it' camp- pulled my transmission from underneath without touching the subframe other than disconnecting the RMM, later pulled the engine and transmission out the top without messing with the subframe or removing anything from the front end (but that is a TIGHT squeeze, especially by yourself in a garage! lol)
 


FenrirFiST

New Member
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Location
Red Creek, NY, USA
#10
Add me to the 'nope, no need to remove it' camp- pulled my transmission from underneath without touching the subframe other than disconnecting the RMM, later pulled the engine and transmission out the top without messing with the subframe or removing anything from the front end (but that is a TIGHT squeeze, especially by yourself in a garage! lol)
I'm stuck. There once was a vid and I lost it. Trying to swap clutch this way without removing the sub or engine.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 


Messages
119
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121
Location
West Chester, PA, USA
#11
The easiest way was to use two floor jacks, one under the engine oil pan (I used a board just to be safe and protect the pan) and 1 under the transmission. After releasing the upper transmission mount on the driver's side, I just lowered both Jacks slightly and then lowered the transmission one until I could work it free. Having someone else to release that jack while I was underneath Was very helpful, but I did it alone the 1st time. Basically once all the bolts are out of the transmission that hold it to the engine, you are just looking to lower the engine enough to tilt the transmission below where it needs to be to jiggle it free and then you should have enough clearance to slide The input shaft out of the engine.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
 


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Location
Drummondville
#12
The easiest way was to use two floor jacks, one under the engine oil pan (I used a board just to be safe and protect the pan) and 1 under the transmission. After releasing the upper transmission mount on the driver's side, I just lowered both Jacks slightly and then lowered the transmission one until I could work it free. Having someone else to release that jack while I was underneath Was very helpful, but I did it alone the 1st time. Basically once all the bolts are out of the transmission that hold it to the engine, you are just looking to lower the engine enough to tilt the transmission below where it needs to be to jiggle it free and then you should have enough clearance to slide The input shaft out of the engine.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
So you removed the transmission by supporting the engine with a floor jack instead of using an engine support over it? Good news, this is what I intended to do. Using 2 floor jacks is a great idea if you don't have an engine support bar.

I guess once the transmission is removed, you then put back the engine up a bit and support it with an axle stand?
 




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