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Engine Build v1.0

Trader history for Jason@dizzytuning (0)

OP
J
Messages
402
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902
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Rocky Point
Thread Starter #29
Keyed crank came back from SP63 the other day.

I'm debating just boring the .5mm up for these pistons, throwing the Pumaspeed block mod in there, and see what this block can handle without sleeves/css first. Then once we establish the weak points and at what horsepower, then I'll make it bullet proof. My only concern is the already paper thin sleeves, lol.
 


Messages
115
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57
Location
Stanwood, WA, USA
#31
Ordered my K1 connecting rods the other day. The supplier reached out today to let me know lead time was late October. :oops:

At $370 shipped, they are a steal though.

The Compstar rods are $520 with no hardware, and $760 with hardware.
I can’t wait to see what kind of abuse you’re going to put this through
 


Messages
29
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9
Location
Pretoria, South Africa
#35
Any further updates going on here? Not to high jack the thread, but when building a "Forged engine" for our cars, what would be recommended to do? Obviously the Pistons and Rods are easy with the ARP Bolts, but would you suggest doing the CSS or what would be the weak point?
 


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none
#36
Any further updates going on here? Not to high jack the thread, but when building a "Forged engine" for our cars, what would be recommended to do? Obviously the Pistons and Rods are easy with the ARP Bolts, but would you suggest doing the CSS or what would be the weak point?
I would recommend a sleeved engine block, if you want reliability. The stock Ford OEM liners are prone to deform and crack at the very top. They are thin at the top and have a cooling passage between cylinders which further weakens the top of the cylinder. CSS is an added security, but if you're going that far, I'd probably spend some extra money on Darton MID sleeves: https://dartonsleeves.com/products/sleeves/mid-sleeves/ford-mid/
That's just my 2 cents. Many here run stock block and 300+hp no problem. Mind you most on E85 which run cooler.
 


Mike King

Member
U.S. Air Force Veteran
Messages
271
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628
Location
South Central Pennsylvania
#37
I would recommend a sleeved engine block, if you want reliability. The stock Ford OEM liners are prone to deform and crack at the very top. They are thin at the top and have a cooling passage between cylinders which further weakens the top of the cylinder. CSS is an added security, but if you're going that far, I'd probably spend some extra money on Darton MID sleeves: https://dartonsleeves.com/products/sleeves/mid-sleeves/ford-mid/
That's just my 2 cents. Many here run stock block and 300+hp no problem. Mind you most on E85 which run cooler.
I don't see any sleeves made for the 1.6. Did I miss something in the link?
 


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140
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#38
OP
J
Messages
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902
Location
Rocky Point
Thread Starter #39
Small change of plans...

I did a compression test after my last race event, and I am down about 30 psi in cylinders 2 and 3. My thoughts are that the sleeve has failed at the common area between those 2 cylinders. I'm honestly not surprised with the amount of abuse I have put this engine through over the last few years. 60k miles, tuned at 500 and BT with 300whp+ at 20K. Plus over 1,000 WOT pulls for datalogs/tuning/development.

I ordered a brand new block from Ford for $286. The Wiseco pistons that I have on the shelf are .5mm larger than stock 79mm, so I do not really want to bore up on the brand new block already. I'd rather use those pistons on a sleeved motor that has some more "meat". So I came across a set of Diamond Pistons that are for the stock 79mm bore, so I scooped those up too. I'll hone the block to the piston size, use all the bearings, gaskets and keyed crank that I have ready and at least this will get me up and running again. I would also like to get some work done on the spare head I have, so that will be ready to install on this new motor. Some mild port work and Stage 2 cams are the goal for now.

Link to pistons: Pistons - Ford - 1.6L Ecoboost (diamondracing.net)
They seem to be a pretty good option and a great price. I'll get weights of both pistons soon.
 


Messages
227
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302
Location
Kalamazoo, MI, USA
#40
I can't wait to see the before and after dyno sheets of the cam change. I'm assuming you are going for some upgraded valve springs? I think supertech has a kit for some really nice beehive springs and titianium retainers. I haven't gotten to see the weight difference between them and the steel ones most tuners carry.
 




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