Erratic Idle, drops/stumbles, then returns to normal.

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Maxpowa
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Thread Starter #42
how much for this valve?[/Q]

I'm not sure. The printout states N/C for the part since the car is under warranty. I can inquire when I take it back in to have the work done.
 


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Maxpowa
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Thread Starter #43
Update: unfortunately the dealer has been less than forthcoming with keeping in contact with me. I've been waiting for the part for over a week, driving the car with this faulty purge valve (according to their diagnosis), hoping the thing won't cut out on me or cause damage to something else. I was told it was okay to drive. Going to call them first thing Monday to follow-up...again.
 


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#44
Tommorow I'm going back to the dealer, in the hope that we can replicate the problem. I will bring it in with less than a quarter tank and the technician will take it out with diagnostic equipment, fill up the car and see what happens. I dont recall it happening after every fill up, so we will see.
Hi Guaji,

Any updates on your dealer visit? I want to dig into this deeper.

Meagan
 


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#47
I have had this issue since my car was at about 10k miles. I found that if i turned my headlights off, as well as the climate control, the car continued to run and would no longer die. Now with this said, I am now modded beyond the average car and I am still having the issue. I guess I should take it into ford... The car runs great, but that rough idle bothers me really bad.
 


westcoaST

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#48
I had the same issue. I corrected it by taking a air grinder with a scotchbrite pad and removed all of my ground wires, then I removed the paint where the copper ground fittings attach to the chassis, and place some dielectric grease on the area where the paint was removed from the chassis. Your grounds are not as good as they need to be since the ground path is through the threaded part of the chassis ground, not the surface of the chassis, which has more area. You can apply some tape to mask off the areas of the chassis you want to keep painted. It takes about 1/2 hour on top and under the engine to get all of the chassis grounds. I believe the Focus ST also has this problem, and this is how it was fixed. I don't know if a Ford dealer would perform this type of "repair" though.

This is for the stumbles at a stop issue. For the dies after a fillup, that sounds like an evap problem.
 


dyn085

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#49
The FoST does have the stumble problem, but most people (including myself) reported that the stumble came back after burnishing the grounds and installing an additional chassis ground to brace it. The majority of people found that after re-installing the negative cable the idle was improved, but that the ECU eventually brought the stumble back after some relearning miles. Ymmv.
 


me32

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#50
The FoST does have the stumble problem, but most people (including myself) reported that the stumble came back after burnishing the grounds and installing an additional chassis ground to brace it. The majority of people found that after re-installing the negative cable the idle was improved, but that the ECU eventually brought the stumble back after some relearning miles. Ymmv.
So is it ECU related?
 


dyn085

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#51
So is it ECU related?
From what I've seen, yes. That, and idling under load (a/c, lights, etc.) is always difficult on four cylinder vehicles. I haven't seen anything in ATR to remedy it yet, though. Despite all of the grounding work I did it comes back within a few days of pulling the battery cable and resetting the ECU.
 


me32

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#52
From what I've seen, yes. That, and idling under load (a/c, lights, etc.) is always difficult on four cylinder vehicles. I haven't seen anything in ATR to remedy it yet, though. Despite all of the grounding work I did it comes back within a few days of pulling the battery cable and resetting the ECU.
Well at least you have determined its not a ground issue
 


westcoaST

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#53
So we have one person who didn't benefit from grounding, and another that did. I also got an Adam MAPerformance tune at this time. I'm not saying that had any contribution to eliminating the stumbling problem, just mentioning that I went to a different tune. I had stumbling on the Cobb stage 3 tune, and also on Two other e40 tunes. But this was before I cleaned the paint off my chassis grounds. I have not had time to go back to the other tunes. I cleaned down to bare metal and used dielectric grease on 6 different ground points. Adding a draw on power makes this condition worse. Turning off AC and lights makes the stumbling less pervasive or reduces it completely . It takes about 30 minutes to do this mod. YWMV. Bottom line, my Fiesta ST used to stumble and now it doesn't.
 


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#54
bump. I'm seeing the same issue (stalling and sputtering after a fill-up). No solution yet? This seems to affect almost every FiST. My car almost stalled in traffic today. May be grounds for a TSB/recall.

You know, it's funny. I had this happen 20 minutes after signing papers when I bought the car brand spanking new. The salesman and I drove to the nearest Shell, filled it with 93. Started it back up to get on my merry way, and the thing stalled out! Wait a minute, I just bought this car and it's already giving out? But I soon found it was just a fill-up issue.

While the instructions say to leave the nozzle in the filler tube for 5-10 seconds, I have found in my experience that is never enough. I have timed it out at 0,5,10,20,30,45,1 minute. I consistently have to leave the nozzle in place at least 1 minute to avoid this issue. It's a small price to pay, but it has been working for me over the last 6 months/5000 miles. It would be really nice if Ford would realize their 5-10 second recommendation does not work for all of us.
 


CanadianGuy

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#55
bump. I'm seeing the same issue (stalling and sputtering after a fill-up). No solution yet? This seems to affect almost every FiST. My car almost stalled in traffic today. May be grounds for a TSB/recall.

You know, it's funny. I had this happen 20 minutes after signing papers when I bought the car brand spanking new. The salesman and I drove to the nearest Shell, filled it with 93. Started it back up to get on my merry way, and the thing stalled out! Wait a minute, I just bought this car and it's already giving out? But I soon found it was just a fill-up issue.

While the instructions say to leave the nozzle in the filler tube for 5-10 seconds, I have found in my experience that is never enough. I have timed it out at 0,5,10,20,30,45,1 minute. I consistently have to leave the nozzle in place at least 1 minute to avoid this issue. It's a small price to pay, but it has been working for me over the last 6 months/5000 miles. It would be really nice if Ford would realize their 5-10 second recommendation does not work for all of us.
I personally found that once the gas pump full lever pops I stop wait the 5 seconds rattle the nozzle on the way out and go. Never stalled agai, stalled when I tried to round up to the nearest buck. I now don't ever, never squirt a tad more.
 


JasonHaven

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#56
Had my first low idle/stall after filling up. I usually leave the pump in for a few seconds, I don't remember doing anything different this time, but it was fine after the stall and some driving. No biggie.
 


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#57
It only did this to me once after filling up and I topped it off trying to get to the next full dollar. I don't do that any more and I don't have the issue anymore.
 


rexdriver85

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#58
What exactly would leaving the nozzle in up to a full minute have anything to do with the stalling issue? I experience it too, but only if I sit and idle right after, if I get going to a steady speed and then come to a stop it never happens. I'm sure there will be some kind of a fix or TSB eventually.
 


JasonHaven

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#59
I believe the owner manual recommends leaving the pump in for 10 seconds, I forget.
 


CanadianGuy

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#60
I believe the owner manual recommends leaving the pump in for 10 seconds, I forget.
But that is mainly to let what is left in the nozzle drip out in the tank and not on your paint/shoes.
 




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