I don't know about y'all, but I like to believe in having every bolt and gasket in it's place; new, when necessary and possible. So here's a shout out to my man Rod, because he's the real MVP with this link. I'm definitely saving this to my favorites. On a related note, I just loaded up on this stuff.
How-To: Remove your turbocharger
- Thread starter Sourskittle
- Start date
- Tags fiesta st removing turbo removing turbo turbo removal
KQK Savanna, 6spd, 2014 Fiesta, $680, just found a listing on car-parts.com
Ebay, $800
Not many Fiesta engines or trans listed but a ton of Escape and some Fusion engines on car-parts.com, low miles, very cheap, we need to know if one could relatively easy be used in the ST!
When I start traveling if I come across a good deal on a mint trans I will get it and carry it in my tool box in the dually, just in case ever needed. Engine is a bit to big to carry in the truck unless I left it in the bed but I will consider it as well.
Ebay, $800
Not many Fiesta engines or trans listed but a ton of Escape and some Fusion engines on car-parts.com, low miles, very cheap, we need to know if one could relatively easy be used in the ST!
When I start traveling if I come across a good deal on a mint trans I will get it and carry it in my tool box in the dually, just in case ever needed. Engine is a bit to big to carry in the truck unless I left it in the bed but I will consider it as well.
Just curious if anyone has removed the manifold, turbo and downpipe together at the same time as an assembly? Basically, disconnect the turbo from everything, disconnect the downpipe to the catback and remove the manifold mounting nuts, slide the manifold, turbo and downpipe off all at the same time?
Would be greatly appreciated to know if someone has done this. If not, would the turbo and downpipe come off all as one piece? Or disconnect the turbo and downpipe, let it lay in the engine bay then take the manifold off and then remove turbo and downpipe
from the top of the engine bay?
Would be greatly appreciated to know if someone has done this. If not, would the turbo and downpipe come off all as one piece? Or disconnect the turbo and downpipe, let it lay in the engine bay then take the manifold off and then remove turbo and downpipe
from the top of the engine bay?
It's entirely possible to remove the manifold and turbo together out through the top. But with the downpipe connected...? I've screwed around enough with removing/installing turbos and downpipes on this car, so I feel pretty confident in saying it's not going to happen due to the limited space and shape of the downpipe. However, I won't dissuade you from an attempt.
OP
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#95
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#95
Hijinx pulled the entire turbo/manifold all out in one piece. Of course it didn't have the downpipe attached to it.
I'd try removing the turbo via the band clamp on the center. That get the turbo out of the way. Then remove the 3 manifold to turbine housing bolts. That will let you try to send the downpipe out the bottom with the turbine housing still attached ( I recommend a lift since your gonna need a good bit of clearance below the car ). You still can't get it out, take the manifold to cylinder head bolts off and try to remove the DP from the top with the turbine still attached.
Those turbines have that issue a lot. I personally run a tap through every single turbine housing when the DP bolts go, before I send it to a customer.
This is from just last night
I'd try removing the turbo via the band clamp on the center. That get the turbo out of the way. Then remove the 3 manifold to turbine housing bolts. That will let you try to send the downpipe out the bottom with the turbine housing still attached ( I recommend a lift since your gonna need a good bit of clearance below the car ). You still can't get it out, take the manifold to cylinder head bolts off and try to remove the DP from the top with the turbine still attached.
Those turbines have that issue a lot. I personally run a tap through every single turbine housing when the DP bolts go, before I send it to a customer.
This is from just last night
Have you tried PB Blaster and heat cycling? If you've got a day to blow, get all your heat shields off, and get the car warmed up, and hit it with some PB and let the car cool down. Rinse and repeat a couple more times before trying again. If she still won't give, you might have to just snap it off and drill it out and tap it. Downpipe bolts can be had from Blue Springs Ford Parts or Rock Auto or you can just get a nut, washer and bolt set from your local hardware store. Honestly, this is why I did my downpipe at like 700 miles. I did not want to deal with a bolt seizing.
OP
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#97
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Thread Starter
#97
I did my downpipe around 3-4k miles and one of the bolts still ate its self to death on the way out. My catback to downpipe bolts also ate themselves to death at the sametime. I've made my living as a mechanic/tech for the past 11 years and many years as an enthusiast before that, I'm not new to remove bolts, and they just suck.
Hijinx heat cycle and PB blaster is the best idea, but almost no one listens to that advice ( pictures my brother in my head ).
Another helpful tip... If you really wanna be a pro-pimp-mechanic, mix 50% acetone and 50% trans fluid into a oiler can. Then use it mixed together as a penetrating oil. Nothing you can buy off a shelf will work better, NOTHING.
Hijinx heat cycle and PB blaster is the best idea, but almost no one listens to that advice ( pictures my brother in my head ).
Another helpful tip... If you really wanna be a pro-pimp-mechanic, mix 50% acetone and 50% trans fluid into a oiler can. Then use it mixed together as a penetrating oil. Nothing you can buy off a shelf will work better, NOTHING.
I second the use of PBlaster and heat cycling to remove the downpipe and other heat soaked components. My add is to only use 6 point sockets, and to apply nickel based antiseize once you are done, to prevent (hopefully) problems in removing these nuts down the road. Running a tap through all threaded holes is also recommended. Do not use molybdenum disulfide on any of these parts. This has a tendency to cause cracks in Nickel based alloys subjected to high heat, due to the sulfur in it.
Wow, thanks for all the replies. I kind of figured I would have to remove the turbine housing and downpipe separate from the rest and you all basically confirmed that for me. I really appreciate the input. I MIGHT give it a shot and try to take it all out at once.
My friend and I will decide that once we start digging into it. Still waiting on my manifold to come back from being coated...
My friend and I will decide that once we start digging into it. Still waiting on my manifold to come back from being coated...
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