When you can get Tony from Pumaspeed on the phone, then he actually gets (some) things done. But basically with all of the machinists I have worked with, things only have a chance of being done properly if you send a step-by-step guide for them.
1. Tighten the main bolts to specification
2. Tighten the deck plate to specification
3. Hone the cylinders
4. Measure the result, check for ovalness and taper
etc
etc
And even then it has happened, that they decide to give the sheet to a new guy in the shop, who misses a point on the written guide, rendering the rest of the work pretty much useless...
1. Tighten the main bolts to specification
2. Tighten the deck plate to specification
3. Hone the cylinders
4. Measure the result, check for ovalness and taper
etc
etc
And even then it has happened, that they decide to give the sheet to a new guy in the shop, who misses a point on the written guide, rendering the rest of the work pretty much useless...
Have you considered deck plate honing at temperature? You’re absolutely right that the bore distorts with the head installed, but the distortion continues with temperature. Some heat the block prior to honing to help with this.
Also, regarding your main bearing failures, do you have any photos of failed bearings? What material are you using and do you see evidence of debris intrusion?
As I read through this I was concerned that a company that wasn’t deck plate honing is perhaps having issues with block cleanliness after machining? Just a thought...
Regarding knock, looking into the cal is a good idea, but oil type can have a large impact as well. Have you made any recent changes to the brand of oil you are using?
Some commercial oil companies recently switched the amount of calcium they run in their additives and this change could be an influence. If you run a special blend then obviously this wouldn’t affect you.
Awesome build though! Can’t wait to see more!!