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Key not detected warning

Rachelw

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Birmingham
#1
Hi all,
hoping for some advice please. I’m posting on behalf of my mom who has a 2014 automatic fiesta model. She doesn’t drive much and every winter has the same issue with car not starting immediately (some times up to 18 attempts). The error code key not detected flags up on dashboard. Over the years ford have told her it’s the battery on car so she has had new battery fitted, then they said it’s was the keys so she paid for replacement keys and problem still occurs. She is in her 70’s and I want her to still feel comfortable driving but she gets really stressed when the car won’t start. Any ideas what problem could be please, ford dealership not at all helpful. We have noticed the problem is always during winter months and wondered if it could be weather/damp related. The car has Walt’s had regular service with ford, she only drives short distances a couple of times a week. Any help much appreciated as I don’t want her to keep,spending money on a problem that’s not being resolved
 


Zormecteon

Active member
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Kelso
#2
While this won't fix the problem, have her do this when the key won't respond. The sensor is in the steering column right where a key would be inserted. Hold the fob next to that when trying to start the car.

Also, the car "shuts off" after some period of time to preserve the battery... 5 to 6 weeks I think. That may well be part of the "problem".
 


SteveS

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#3
The shutting off to preserve battery is managed by the Battery control module on the negative battery cable and the BCM. If the old battery was replaced because it was low/weak but the battery control module was not reset, the car may still think it has a weak battery even though it doesn't, and it shuts off things to preserve battery.

The battery control module is reset by turning on the car without starting it, and waiting for the lights on the dash to go through their routine and stop flashing. Then flash the lights 5 times by pulling the turn signal stalk towards you 5 times followed by pressing and releasing the brake pedal three times. After a moment you will see the battery light on the dash flash and then stop flashing, indicating it has been reset.
 


Capri to ST

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CHAPEL HILL, NC, USA
#4
The shutting off to preserve battery is managed by the Battery control module on the negative battery cable and the BCM. If the old battery was replaced because it was low/weak but the battery control module was not reset, the car may still think it has a weak battery even though it doesn't, and it shuts off things to preserve battery.

The battery control module is reset by turning on the car without starting it, and waiting for the lights on the dash to go through their routine and stop flashing. Then flash the lights 5 times by pulling the turn signal stalk towards you 5 times followed by pressing and releasing the brake pedal three times. After a moment you will see the battery light on the dash flash and then stop flashing, indicating it has been reset.
Thanks for posting this procedure again, that's a reasonable explanation for what's going on here.
I'm going to remember to do the reset procedure next time I replace the battery. I can't remember, do you also have to have the headlights on while you're doing this, or do they not need to be on?i had seen references to doing it in both ways .
 


LilPartyBox

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NYC
#7
It's the battery in the key fob itself. Our key fob is so small it can only hold a small 2032 coin battery. Mine goes out every 6 weeks or so. Very frustrating trait on these cars. One of the symptoms is keyfob not found. As it gets worse, the car won't start and the unlock button on the door handle gets fussy. I carry spare batteries in the car at this point.
 


Zormecteon

Active member
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#8
Just read another thread wherein the batteries themselves were the problem... Don't buy cheap...

Are they Duracell? Genuine? Ever-Ready? Or some off brand you got cheap from Amazon?
 


Intuit

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South West Ohio
#9
Mine goes out every 6 weeks or so.
Door Dash, Amazon driving with a side of Uber? Definitely not normal.
As ^ suggested, source a different battery and note any sell-by or expiration date on the package.
Use the buttons on the doors instead of a key fob press.
Disassemble your remote for inspection.
 


LilPartyBox

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#10
Door Dash, Amazon driving with a side of Uber? Definitely not normal.
As ^ suggested, source a different battery and note any sell-by or expiration date on the package.
Use the buttons on the doors instead of a key fob press.
Disassemble your remote for inspection.
I don't see how the "Amazon driving..." is relevant as I WFH lol

I'll be sure to check for a sell-by date next time. I just popped a Duracell in and have used Panasonic before. I always use the door button to unlock. That's how I can tell if the battery is on its way out. Two days after the Duracell, I got a key not found notice on my way to the gym. It didn't happen on my way back home tho or since. There's def something odd with the keyless on these cars. Some say to change the sensor under the arm rest/cup holder area but in my case, a new battery has it working just fine so i don't think it's my sensor per say.

I log all the maintenance on my cars and started logging the key fob battery changes. I'll post an update on how long this new Duracell lasts.

31-Aug
12-Oct (Started dying 12/4)
31-Jan (the new Duracell)
 


LilPartyBox

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#12
Well, here's my odd and yet unexplained experience. Maybe these fobs draw amperage that make them incompatible with certain batteries? Total guessculation...

https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/sense-makes-no.28331/

.
I really hope that's not the case. That's just more unnecessary complications for something that should be so simple. But not at all far-fetched.

I'll continue to log how long my batteries last but I'll add brand and voltage as well. Let's see if an answer presents itself. This may be a small annoyance to some but walking up to my car and clicking the button 4 times to get in is starting to get under my skin.
 




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