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Krug Throws Parts at His Car: The Thread

Plainrt

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#3
I despise the dust that the OEM pads produce. Do you have an alternative? EBC, perhaps?

Brakes are low on my list, honestly - the OEM ones perform perfectly fine for now, I only plan to replace them when needed.


I haven’t found a good replacement yet. I feel that most pads are a downgrade over stock and when making more power I’ll take dust over clean wheels and worse performing pads.
 


ron@whoosh

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#4
I despise the dust that the OEM pads produce. Do you have an alternative? EBC, perhaps?

Brakes are low on my list, honestly - the OEM ones perform perfectly fine for now, I only plan to replace them when needed.
EBC Redstuff has been a very popular alternative to the Hawk HPS 5.0 that most suggest and use instead of OEM.

If you decide to go with the RT330 revo turbo kit you will not need the Mishimoto charge pipes since the kit is complete with charge pipes
You'll also easily max out the stock fuel system with the RT330 on 93 octane.
The stock exhaust manifold will flow more than enough for the power level you are aiming for. If you do decide to grab an extra manifold to port match, not a huge power bump but it's piece of mind for sure making sure there are no flow obstructions
 


ron@whoosh

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#5
Fair enough. I will keep it in mind.


Excellent, I will consider them!

Well, I need a cheap alternative for the interim, as I plan to do this in stages, and am not keen on keeping the stock charge pipes. The turbo upgrade comes last, and my main goals for it are stock-like fitment, stock-ish spool, and of course higher power.

I figured, which is why I am considering an aux system. My main question is whether or not 93 is sufficient for my goals (fuel starvation being the primary limitation), or if ethanol blends or WMI are suggested (octane being the primary limitation).

Matches what I have read. I have the tools and time and steady hand to dedicate a weekend for porting my manifold. IIRC, a replacement OEM manifold is not terribly expensive, so no biggie if I screw up.
we will have the Peron 4 port AUX fuel kits here next week just to offer another option
 


ron@whoosh

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#7
Ron got me thinking - thanks Ron! - since I am leaning toward the RT330 turbo kit which includes charge pipes, in order save myself a few bucks and cut down on waste, would it be more viable for me to forgo the Mishimoto charge pipe kit and instead get the Whoosh noodlepipe and symposer delete?

For clarification, I plan to do a "stage 3" install first, and then a turbo upgrade later. Would replacing the resonated noodle pipe and deleting the symposer while keeping the rest of the stock charge pipe components be an issue? I can't think of a major reason why it would.
noodle pipe and symposer delete are more than adequate for stage 3
 


TDavis

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#8
Used FORscan to disable my TPMS, shift indicator, and change some Sync 3 settings - boot animation is now ST/Ford Performance (why wasn't it like this to begin with?), SiriusXM is gone, and a couple of other minor tweaks not worth mentioning.
What was the sequence/process for disabling the shift indicator?
 


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#9
I must give you kudos for doing an OEM job on this. I really hate aftermarket systems that use a cheap switch that gets glued or drilled into the console or side of the seat.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
 


Wayne

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#10
:350 whp with stock bottom end:

If you are only planing to drag race every now and then you should be OK with stock bottom end it will take a lot more than you might think it will. I know a guy that runs 425 hp at the wheels and he has had no problems at all with the build. It is street driven and raced at the local drag strip on saturdays and sundays it runs high to mid 11 second passes.
 


danbfree

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#12
Interesting. I'm very particular, however, and I wouldn't risk >350hp without forged internals even if it is capable of it with stock internals. Maybe eventually, but not in my plans for now.
Yeah, it'e been proven that the stock internals gives up the ghost around 435HP, there was a guy who ran reliably around 400 for a long time but when encouraged to see what it could do, he pushed it higher and higher and it finally went around 435... So, to me and a lot of others, 350HP is 100% safe and if not going any higher may end costing more to modify than it would be rebuilding slightly sooner with the extra wear and strain at "only" 350... now at 375 or higher I'd start by using improved parts that are the weakest link, which are the rods from what I recall...
 


danbfree

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#13
AWR 88a RMM and No-Pistons pedal spacer installed today. The increase in NVH with just the 88a RMM is actually very pleasant, and I can already tell that I'll miss it when it settles. The difference the RMM has made in the shift feel is incredible. I didn't fully understand what people meant by how much a RMM upgrade cleans up the shifting until now. The uppers will have to wait until I have more time and can install both at once. Unfortunately, I will have to wait until the weather is warmer to test for improved traction.

The pedal spacer is also very nice - makes the ergonomics a fair bit more natural for me.
Well, FWIW, none of my mounts really had to "settle" other than the side inserts over the first 50 miles, my Torque Solutions feel the same now at 17k as when installed at 2k, so maybe you'll be fortunate too! And now i'm super curious about the 88a AWR for myself! :)
 


danbfree

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#14
I can only compare the 88a AWR to the stock RMM. I can understand how some would dislike the NVH, but honestly I love it. There's a bit of vibration below 1200rpm (which I have read will die down within a few hundred miles) but nothing terrible, and in fact I almost forget it's there. When above 4k RPM I can hear a lovely metallic rasp from the exhaust due to the stiffer mount transferring noise/vibrations from the downpipe into the cab. I'm completely in love with this mount.
Damn, that does sound good, thanks for the details!
 


M-Sport fan

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#15
Speaking of that storm, it was a great chance to test out the Nokian Hakkapeliitta R2 tires I have on right now. Absolutely ace. Love 'em. The $330 I paid for the set of four is a bargain for how well these perform. I was pulling past every other car on the road and took the chance to slide around a few side street corners and never once did I feel as though I wasn't in control.
Which size, and on what wheels?
 


M-Sport fan

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#16
For actual snow use, I still think that the Hakka R2s are the absolute BEST choice out there, even though many have critiqued their ice and slush performance (which they are also at least near the top of the heap for anyway). ;) [thumb]
 


TyphoonFiST

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#17
Installed the TTR PSMM and DSMM along with the Boomba Ultimate Shift Kit today. Took about 4 hours all told - I took my time to use threadlocker on all appropriate fasteners and torqued everything to Ford spec according to the service manual. I also took the chance to clean up some of the harder-to-reach areas of the engine bay and wiped down a bunch of fasteners and metal surfaces with Sta-Bil Corrosion Inhibitor. I hate hate hate rust and corrosion, which makes living in Michigan hell.

That shift kit is something else. 40% reduction is pretty extreme and I couldn't imagine anything more even being usable. I may switch it to 28% reduction if I just can't get used to it, but for now I'll see if it grows on me. Shifting is completely slop-free. Not my favorite mod (that title goes to the AWR 88a RMM), but I'm still impressed.

The upper mounts have resulted in more NVH, but it's still not unbearable. In fact it seemed to settle down quite a lot in just 15 miles of driving. I was shocked at how anemic the stock mounts are. I'll report back after a few hundred miles more.



Give it all a few thousand miles as the mounts really start to break in.....some people never give them enough time and bail on them complaining of NVH after a couple weeks!


Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk
 


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#19
I can only compare the 88a AWR to the stock RMM. I can understand how some would dislike the NVH, but honestly I love it. There's a bit of vibration below 1200rpm (which I have read will die down within a few hundred miles) but nothing terrible, and in fact I almost forget it's there. When above 4k RPM I can hear a lovely metallic rasp from the exhaust due to the stiffer mount transferring noise/vibrations from the downpipe into the cab. I'm completely in love with this mount.
Glad to hear it. I ordered the AWR 88A RMM as well (from whoosh motorsports),
along with a powerflex passenger side mount, and transmission mount (yellow street).

I saw some reviews about the NVH, but I like the idea of a more solid hold on the engine more than quietness.
 


danbfree

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#20
Glad to hear it. I ordered the AWR 88A RMM as well (from whoosh motorsports),
along with a powerflex passenger side mount, and transmission mount (yellow street).

I saw some reviews about the NVH, but I like the idea of a more solid hold on the engine more than quietness.
I think you'll be very happy with your choice! It's just my estimation but I do believe that the yellow inserts will be much more mild than the TTR mounts on the NVH side of things while obviously still stiffening the uppers. NVH can seem very drastic at first but noticeably smooths out at 50 miles, then 100 miles, then 200 miles, then 500 miles...etc. So go into it with both eyes open and be patient about it.

To be honest, the powerflex inserts may be all you really need. If you haven't, I also suggest replacing the main bolt on the PSMM with a high grade ARP bolt as it is known to shear if put under too much stress. You can find it on Ron's site for $15, which is so cheap that there's no reason not to do it as insurance since you'll be "in there" anyways.
I agree that this will be a great setup... I have the Powerflex Street inserts (and bolt upgrade) and a Torque Solutions RMM and the inserts added the vibes that are noticeable but aren't bad at all. In fact, I will eventually get the AWR 88a as well to stiffen things up a bit more but the inserts seemed to help more than the RMM to begin with, most underrated mod there is for our car!
 


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