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Light Weight Wheels and why, add yours to the list, read the requirements first

caliboy15

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I went with 6ULs in 17x8. I wanted to stay on a 17" wheel because I didn't want to shorten the gearing or go with a higher profile tire, I have the Wilwood BBK, and I like the look of a 17" wheel on the FiST. Without spending BIG money the 6ULs are the lightest 17x8 that I could find and have a great reputation. I did the 4x100 conversion instead of waiting for the FSWERKS 4x108 version because I'm toying with the idea of giving the 17x9 6ULs a shot for a set of A/C wheels.
wow! looks great...
 


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RAAMaudio

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Thread Starter #242
Looks dang good:):):)

As for the 17x9 up front you would have to run a spacer as I believe the wheels have a +45 offset. I barely clear the BC coilovers with the 15x9, +35, the sidewalls on 225 tires and that is with adjusting the camber at the strut/knuckle as far possitive as it will go and dialing in the negative at the top by drilling new mounting holes and trimming the strut tops a bit.

For the rear it might be a very close call, I had to roll and pull the fenders as much as I could even to the point of bending a little lip into the, cut off the sealant inside the fender and add more camber, again +35 wheels, they +45 9" will help but only by 10mm.

I would look into 225 wide tires max and the narrowest section width.

I would like to see this done, it would look sweet indeed and the wheels are still quite low in weight:)
 


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I went with 6ULs in 17x8. I wanted to stay on a 17" wheel because I didn't want to shorten the gearing or go with a higher profile tire, I have the Wilwood BBK, and I like the look of a 17" wheel on the FiST. Without spending BIG money the 6ULs are the lightest 17x8 that I could find and have a great reputation. I did the 4x100 conversion instead of waiting for the FSWERKS 4x108 version because I'm toying with the idea of giving the 17x9 6ULs a shot for a set of A/C wheels.
What's the offset?

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
 


LILIKE16ST

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btw I have saw several different quotes for weights on the 15x8 1.2s. "Stock" weight is 16.2 lbs according to Chalon at PCA and the TD website claims 6.6 kilos which is 14.5 lbs. Stock weight is before they drill any holes out of it or any of that mess. I saw somewhere where rodmoe had claimed it to be closer to 15.5 than 14.5 that the site says and he was correct. I weighed each of my 4 before tires were on on my large scale at work and they came out to 7.0 kilos each or 28.0 for the 4 and that comes out to exactly 15.4 lbs. Just in case anyone might be like me and be confused as to what the weight actually IS on the 15x8 pro race 1.2....it is 15.4 lbs! Not as light as the 15x8 6ul i contemplated but if you are sticking with the stock 4x108 nonsense like myself because of cost, hassle or otherwise the td pro race 1.2 15x8 at 15.4 lbs each is not bad at all. Not to mention they're built to last and look awesome imo. Even "tiny" 15s look killer and look mean. Alot of people around where I live can't believe I was able to "downsize" a couple inches on my wheel size and actually make the car look better. That is a credit to the looks of the pro race 1.2 and the bfg sport comp 2 195/55/15 tires I went with. My setup is over 6 lbs lighter per corner than my stock setup. I'm loving it!
 


jeffreylyon

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Looks dang good:):):)

As for the 17x9 up front you would have to run a spacer as I believe the wheels have a +45 offset. I barely clear the BC coilovers with the 15x9, +35, the sidewalls on 225 tires and that is with adjusting the camber at the strut/knuckle as far possitive as it will go and dialing in the negative at the top by drilling new mounting holes and trimming the strut tops a bit.

For the rear it might be a very close call, I had to roll and pull the fenders as much as I could even to the point of bending a little lip into the, cut off the sealant inside the fender and add more camber, again +35 wheels, they +45 9" will help but only by 10mm.

I would look into 225 wide tires max and the narrowest section width.

I would like to see this done, it would look sweet indeed and the wheels are still quite low in weight:)
I've found a place that will machine wheels spacers with the odd combination of stock and 6UL center bore sizes. I believe that you said that you have to run 2mm or 5mm, depending upon the tire, so I'll start out with 15mm and see where that gets me. I have the ST XTA coilovers with adjustment in both the hats and upper strut mount bolt so I can tip the knuckles out at the strut and dial more camber back in at the hats.

I have a set of rear knuckles that I plan to reface to dial in some rear camber. I just need to figure out how to wedge the bolt heads on the other side of the axel mount - I'm thinking that I can get away with grade 8 bolts and some aluminum washers - I just have to buffer about .001" at the bolt head per degree of camber. 1.5? of camber on a 24" tire will give me about 8mm more of clearance at the top of the tire (along with better tire placement in the turns). I'm hoping that the extra 10mm of offset that my wheels have over yours will allow me to run 9" on the rear without going after the sheet metal too much.

I'd like to fit the 225/40-17 Hoosier A7's, but those are monsters and I'm not willing to cut the sheet metal on my sometimes-DD with 1400 miles on it. There are some nice options in 225/45-17 but that's a tall tire and, as much as I'd like the extra couple of MPH in 2nd, I'm afraid that I'll run into rubbing issues in the rear as others have.
 


LILIKE16ST

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I went with 6ULs in 17x8. I wanted to stay on a 17" wheel because I didn't want to shorten the gearing or go with a higher profile tire, I have the Wilwood BBK, and I like the look of a 17" wheel on the FiST. Without spending BIG money the 6ULs are the lightest 17x8 that I could find and have a great reputation. I did the 4x100 conversion instead of waiting for the FSWERKS 4x108 version because I'm toying with the idea of giving the 17x9 6ULs a shot for a set of A/C wheels.
Fswerks is going to make a 4x108 6ul? Is that just in the 17 or are they going to do a 15x8 too? That's something I might be interested in in the future the hassle and cost of the conversion is the reason I didn't go with them to begin with. Those are awesome wheels and very light. Don't get me wrong I LOVE my 1.2s they're awesome but if they were to offer a 6ul in 15x8 and 4x108 that is def something I would consider selling my 1.2s to get in the future. I saved over 6 lbs per corner with my current setup over stock and it was a pretty noticeable improvement in all departments particularly acceleration so I'm sure saving around 4 more lbs per corner with some 6ul may be worth the switch IF they were to offer those in 4x108 that is...I'd really prefer matte black too but that color yours are is very nice as well....
 


jeffreylyon

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Fswerks is going to make a 4x108 6ul? Is that just in the 17 or are they going to do a 15x8 too? That's something I might be interested in in the future the hassle and cost of the conversion is the reason I didn't go with them to begin with. Those are awesome wheels and very light. Don't get me wrong I LOVE my 1.2s they're awesome but if they were to offer a 6ul in 15x8 and 4x108 that is def something I would consider selling my 1.2s to get in the future. I saved over 6 lbs per corner with my current setup over stock and it was a pretty noticeable improvement in all departments particularly acceleration so I'm sure saving around 4 more lbs per corner with some 6ul may be worth the switch IF they were to offer those in 4x108 that is...I'd really prefer matte black too but that color yours are is very nice as well....
I'm not completely sure that they are going to be 17", but my understanding is that FSWERKS is working with 949 Racing to bring a 6UL wheel to 4x108. I chose to go with 4x100 because I'm playing with the idea of using a set of 17x9 for A/C wheels and I seriously doubt that we'll ever see a decent 17x9 in 4x108 and ET45-ish. The fit and finish of the 6ULs is top notch and is matched by their reputation.

The Beryllium really looks great with White Platinum, IMHO, but it might be a little too shiny against a non-metallic color.
 


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RAAMaudio

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Thread Starter #249
Wheel offsets the reason why wheels in the same size can weight quite a bit differently, some manf will state the lowest weight offset which I find quite misleading.

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Jeffry.....I decided on -2.0 rear camber and -2.5 front as it worked incredibly well for a full time similar suspension setup on a prior build I did in 2002.

I too wanted to have the knuckles trimmed to add more camber but could not find somebody to do it locally at the time.

I was going to comment on the bolts being misaligned if you change the angle on the rear knuckle but it seems you have that covered well:)

Make sure to address the ABS sensor while at it so it works with the ring on the hub;)

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I have not looked at the actual specs of the 225/40/17 A7 but I can relate to some tires being overly wide though not all of their tires are.

The 225/45/50 R6 I had for test fitting went on the front relatively easily but would not come close to fitting under the rear as they were really a 240 or 245 wide tire. I was rather upset about not fitting them as planned to run A7 in that size for TT events.

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I love the 15x8 6UL wheels I have for my all season tires, rated at 11.4lbs, dual valve stems are great for filling tires acurately and quickly for racing but also for filling with nitrogen so there is a place to purge them better. I have ten of the Konig Helix in 15x9, 13.4lbs, if I can keep this car I will likely switch to 15x9 6UL later on.

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LILIKE16ST

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Wheel offsets the reason why wheels in the same size can weight quite a bit differently, some manf will state the lowest weight offset which I find quite misleading.

------------

Jeffry.....I decided on -2.0 rear camber and -2.5 front as it worked incredibly well for a full time similar suspension setup on a prior build I did in 2002.

I too wanted to have the knuckles trimmed to add more camber but could not find somebody to do it locally at the time.

I was going to comment on the bolts being misaligned if you change the angle on the rear knuckle but it seems you have that covered well:)

Make sure to address the ABS sensor while at it so it works with the ring on the hub;)

----------------

I have not looked at the actual specs of the 225/40/17 A7 but I can relate to some tires being overly wide though not all of their tires are.

The 225/45/50 R6 I had for test fitting went on the front relatively easily but would not come close to fitting under the rear as they were really a 240 or 245 wide tire. I was rather upset about not fitting them as planned to run A7 in that size for TT events.

------------

I love the 15x8 6UL wheels I have for my all season tires, rated at 11.4lbs, dual valve stems are great for filling tires acurately and quickly for racing but also for filling with nitrogen so there is a place to purge them better. I have ten of the Konig Helix in 15x9, 13.4lbs, if I can keep this car I will likely switch to 15x9 6UL later on.

---------------
awesome info ramm! thanks again for the knowledgeable response for me and everyone else reading :) If they ever do a 15x8 6ul in 4x108 i'll find a way to make it work and get a set for myself no doubt those wheels are just straight awesome. I felt a big difference going with my current setup and saving just over 6 lbs per corner...it boggles my mind that I could throw on a set of 19 lbs 205/50/15 star specs on those 6ul and save another 6 lbs per corner from my current setup. That would definately be worth the switch. I love my current setup and the way it performs and looks so getting rid of these to go with another setup it would have to be a really awesome setup and a set of 15x8 6ul is a really awesome setup :)
 


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RAAMaudio

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You are most welcome:)

The lighter the wheels and tires the faster the car will be in all ways and also reduce wear on the brakes, allow them to work better on track(as long as enough airflow), the car will ride better. and the suspension do a better job of keeping the contact patch on the ground and reduce wear on the suspension and chassis. The taller sidewall and lighter weight will help reduce road noise as well as long as the new tires are not really loud.

The 225/45/15 Rival S and 205/50/15 NeoGen tires are incredibly less noisy than the 205/45/17 Mich PS AS3 tires I had and ride hugely better:)

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M-Sport fan

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I went with 6ULs in 17x8. I wanted to stay on a 17" wheel because I didn't want to shorten the gearing or go with a higher profile tire, I have the Wilwood BBK, and I like the look of a 17" wheel on the FiST. Without spending BIG money the 6ULs are the lightest 17x8 that I could find and have a great reputation. I did the 4x100 conversion instead of waiting for the FSWERKS 4x108 version because I'm toying with the idea of giving the 17x9 6ULs a shot for a set of A/C wheels.
Are you SURE it was FS WERKS doing this co-op with 949Racing (to make the 6ULs in a 4x108)?!? [???:)]

I just got off of the phone with them, and they had NO CLUE what I was asking about, and have not even ever heard of 949 Racing wheels! [dunno]

Maybe, was it another company that you just got confused with FS WERKS??
 


jeffreylyon

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Maybe, was it another company that you just got confused with FS WERKS??
Maybe - this is what 949 told me when I asked about 4x108 options:

"We have no plans for a 15" 108 pattern wheel. It would require an entirely new casting tool, very large production run (300+) or they would be expensive. We do have plans for 17 inch 4&5 lug 108 pattern. There is currently no ETA or additional information being made public yet. Just to make it easy, you don't need to email us every few weeks to ask:) We are in the business of selling wheels. When we have solid information we will make it very public!"

I think that I heard FSWERKS on one of the 4x108 15" 6UL threads.
 


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I am thinking about ordering Motegi M125 42mm offset 7.5x17 wheels for my FIST. Are these a bolt-on? Do I need spacers for the hub? I did a layout drawing and they look like they will fit fine with the OEM 205/40-17 tires. Anyone have any recommendations for a source? Several suppliers (Tire Rack, etc.) don't list this wheel as being compatible. Why?
 


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I am thinking about ordering Motegi M125 42mm offset 7.5x17 wheels for my FIST. Are these a bolt-on? Do I need spacers for the hub? I did a layout drawing and they look like they will fit fine with the OEM 205/40-17 tires. Anyone have any recommendations for a source? Several suppliers (Tire Rack, etc.) don't list this wheel as being compatible. Why?
Discount tire will be able to order them for you. Fits without a spacer, perfect fitment in my opinion. 205's are a bit of a stretch but will work.
 


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RAAMaudio

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I am considering buying an 08-10 Rav4 Sport V6, 276 HP, AWD, pretty peppy and decent handling little SUV. It comes with 235/55/18 tires on 18x7.5 pretty heavy wheels, tires are not that low in weight either.

I have been promoting lower weight wheels and tires for decades and my SUV, trucks, etc all get consideration since it effects everything on them as well, handling, ride, wear and tare on the suspension, road noise, fuel economy, etc.....

I can get some nice flow formed 18x9, 19.5lb, Konig wheels for $250 each or 21.5lb ones for $210 each and the ultra high performance all season tires would be 255/45/18 RE970 AS Pole Positions, 29 lbs, $176 each or the same size in the SC-2, $157 each, same weight, 48.5ls is pretty dang decent for such a great setup and very reasonable cost.


I might upsize to 19x9.5, 21.5 or 24lb wheels for around $200 more, tires would be 1 lb heavier in 275/40/19 in the Pole Positions and another $200 gain in cost, total weight would still be just 51.2lbs.

The SC-2 AS is 3 lbs heavier and close to $200 more per set compared to the 18's and just $150 per set less than the PP so I would have to consider that.

Also the 275's are getting pretty wide for the weight of the Rav4 in slippery conditions, best to not go to wide or just not enough PSI on the ground in the rain, mud and snow besides having to plow through it.

Compare that to running stock wheels and 21lb tires, 45+lbs on the FiST, stock on the Rav4 is likely around 58-60lbs, my 15x9 race wheels with 225 slicks are 30lbs as are teh Rival S street tires I run.

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WHY did I post this?

Just a heads up that there are great reasonable cost performance and appearance upgrades even for SUVs, trucks, etc......and it does matter:)
 


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