Mild Occasional Track Prep for Experienced Drivers (Heat Management)

[MarkR171]

I bought my Fiesta as a daily driver, with the intent to never really take it to an autocross or trackcross/DE because I have a nationally competitive CSP car for autocross and a track prepped Miata. Both lots more fun to compete with.

In my infinite wisdom, the track car now has a massive wing, splitter and air dam and is getting more and more harsh over time, so of course, I'm thinking of mildly prepping the daily driver to take to low-key track cross events, autocrosses, maybe even a SCCA Track Night or something occasionally.

One track event last year, there were two Fiesta STs there struggling with heat - both engine and brake related. I don't really want to go too crazy, again it's just my daily driver (although no one is really driving every day right now).

Is an intercooler and brake pads/fluid enough?

Intercooler - Is there a "get what you pay for" difference in comparing Whoosh V3 ($399), cp-e ($499), Mountune ($599) and Cobb ($895)? I have no real interest in (spending money to) add power, so just need to handle heat at stock levels.​

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Brakes - Is the Fiesta hard on pads? For example, my ND Miata in STR autocross prep handled 20-min sessions at PittRace just fine on relatively mild Ferodo DS2500 pads, but with the Fiesta relying on brakes in the corners, will I need something with a higher heat tolerance? I will likely end up Conti ECS or BFG Rivals.​

 

[MagnetiseST]

Is an intercooler and brake pads/fluid enough?

Intercooler - Is there a "get what you pay for" difference in comparing Whoosh V3 ($399), cp-e ($499), Mountune ($599) and Cobb ($895)? I have no real interest in (spending money to) add power, so just need to handle heat at stock levels.​

​

Brakes - Is the Fiesta hard on pads? For example, my ND Miata in STR autocross prep handled 20-min sessions at PittRace just fine on relatively mild Ferodo DS2500 pads, but with the Fiesta relying on brakes in the corners, will I need something with a higher heat tolerance? I will likely end up Conti ECS or BFG Rivals.​

Short answer to intercooler: No

You need a radiator, not an intercooler. The stock intercooler is fine for the stock tune. Grab a Mishimoto, or Mountune radiator, and be done. The car will never ever overheat again.

Brakes: the stock SPORT pads are good, these are the pads that come with the red painted calipers and have a big ol "S" on the backing plate for you to easily ID without removing them from the car. Very high dust, but great pad feel. For stock calipers Hawk 5.0s seem to be pretty good, and EBC Yellowstuff are amazing but they don't last long after a track day! Also RBF600 fluid is a must.

 

[MarkR171]

Thanks for the tip regarding the radiator vs. intercooler. I'll do that instead if I go ahead with prep.

I didn't realize the red painted calipers came with different pads, but I'll swap them anyway. I have the non-red calipers and they do dust like crazy. I'm wary of Hawk and EBC as I've never really heard good things from people who have used them but also used other brands (Carbotech, G-Loc, Pagid, etc.) I have a pile of Hawk contingency certificates I can blow on Fiesta pads though since I'm not using them on the Miatas. Have been using RBF600 for years and always have a few bottles in the garage.

 

[MagnetiseST]

You might be able to get away with running the heat on high for every session but it gets pretty hot in the car like that. A radiator will just solve the issue point blank. Its not the easiest install, but the mountune one can be installed without removing the whole front end.

Yeah the red calipers came with different pads. If you aren't a fan of EBC (its worth noting that the yellowstuff was by far the best track day pad I'd ever used until I switched to a BBK), then G-Loc is great. I was looking at their R10 compound for my Wilwood kit, and I know a few friends who run their pads on the track.

Pro tip: if you change the brake fluid, bleed the clutch. They use the same reservoir, and you dont want any of that old stock fluid to get into the system.

 

[MarkR171]

You'll be happy with the G-Loc. I run R10 front, R8 rear in the Miata. 7 track days in and they're probably still at ~75%, and you can swap in G-Loc GS-1 street pads on the same rotor without having to rebed the R10s when you go back to the track.

 

[Questionable]

Yeah, a Fiesta will be hard on brakes, especially without an LSD. I'd say start with Carbotech XP8s or the G-LOC equivalent (10s, I think? Maybe also 8s.) and go up or down from there.

I tried running Mountune-branded Hawk pads way back in 2016, and had terrible luck with them. Boiled the fluid halfway through the events. So I went to G-LOC (and Carbotech when I stopped being able to get G-LOCs) and never looked back. But if you have contingency Hawk-bucks, you might as well start there.

Sent from my H8314 using Tapatalk

 

[kevinatfms]

Brakes: the stock SPORT pads are good, these are the pads that come with the red painted calipers and have a big ol "S" on the backing plate for you to easily ID without removing them from the car. Very high dust, but great pad feel. For stock calipers Hawk 5.0s seem to be pretty good, and EBC Yellowstuff are amazing but they don't last long after a track day! Also RBF600 fluid is a must.

My car was a non-painted caliper car but has the "S" pads stock. The only time you got the other pads were if your car came with the All-season tire option from the factory.

Bridgestone Potenza RE050 equipped car - performance pads.
Michelin A/S3 equipped car - all season pads.

 

[MagnetiseST]

My car was a non-painted caliper car but has the "S" pads stock. The only time you got the other pads were if your car came with the All-season tire option from the factory.

Bridgestone Potenza RE050 equipped car - performance pads.
Michelin A/S3 equipped car - all season pads.

d'oh *facepalm* you are correct. I totally forgot about that. Half asleep still haha.

 

[M-Sport fan]

My car was a non-painted caliper car but has the "S" pads stock. The only time you got the other pads were if your car came with the All-season tire option from the factory.

Bridgestone Potenza RE050 equipped car - performance pads.
Michelin A/S3 equipped car - all season pads.

^^^THIS!
Yes, even if you got the black wheels/painted calipers, but opted for (or bought off of the lot with) the Michelin all seasons, you got the 'lesser' (not as track capable) 'street' pads (like on mine).

The Potenzas on the car from the factory were the ONLY factor in getting the 'S' pads.

IF I decide to stay on the factory style brake setup (vs. some fixed caliper setup), I am going with a good blank rotor, and either the 'S' Motorcraft pads, or the G-Loc GS-1s (are their R6es a bit too much for the street already as far as noise, excessive rotor wear, and ages to heat up/no brakes on a COLD hit?? ).

 

[The_Ryan]

3rd- Non painted calipers, had S pads.

Also just wanted chime in and say the Mountune radiator install was not difficult. Took me a bit less than 2 hours on jack stands and I was taking my time. Having a buddy to help line things up when putting the new radiator in helps a great deal.

 

[PunkST]

Unpainted and had sport pads. Definitely going back to them and using cheapo rotors. Id step up the maintenance interval on the slide pins as well.

A bigger radiator, and if you feel the need a whoosh v1 intercooler will do great at keeping temps in check.

 

[firestang70]

Interesting info here. I have the red calipers and all seasons. They dust like crazy but love the stopping power and feel. Need to check the pads, if they are standard issue I may try the sport pads when change is required.

 

[E34less]

Get an intercooler so your temps don't look like this in between autox runs.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I have that very same device, and use it to monitor coolant temps and boost FULL TIME (I leave it in the car always) instead of the AP that everyone else uses. (MUCH less likely to tempt any thieves than the pricey AP!)

The 'interpolated' oil temp is the only thing it gives up to the AP.

 

[maestromaestro]

Yes for radiator. Maybe for intercooler. Yes to Carbotech XP8s. And - a massive yes for the Castro’s SRF fluid. This should do it. The other stuff is gravy (deflectors, ducts for brake cooling, stainless steel lines, etc). Here in sunny Houston in July - August, no issues with HPDE after the above mods. I also have an oil cooler - so, not sure if the radiator/fan combo from Mishi alone would have done the trick tho.

 

[CSM]

If you do get an IC I would stay away from the Whoosh V1, Cobb, and Mountune intercoolers. Whoosh V3, CPE are a much better design and handles longer sessions/pulls much better than the previous three.

 

[kneapolitan]

does the stock radiator being block by the grill and the crash bar effect cooling any? Id assume about 60ish% of a stock radiator is either blocked by the intercooler/crashbar/ lower grill with no flow. (i know the easiest fix is just replace for better bigger one) just curious if he'd be able to acheive some cooler temps by removing or modifying the 2 things obstructing air flow to the radiator.(im sure people have tried this and its probably been deem pointless by now)