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To turn or not to turn (the rotors) 18.5K of relatively mild driving.

PhoenixM3

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#1
All, I have new SS lines, and Hawk 5.0 pads (and fluid) but wanted opinions on whether turning all 4 rotors is necessary. To the touch, the wear appears even w/o any abnormal grooves. For reference, they're no bumpier than my thumbnail - I know, great reference.... The shop that will turn them is the Auto Hobby shop on base, and they'll charge $12/rotor. Do I skimp on this? For all past cars, I never bothered to turn them, and believe that any perceived improvement wouldn't be detectable by my old ass.


Thoughts are welcome....

Jeff
 


Siestarider

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Stuart
#2
Dave posted fronts min thickness is 21mm. I have 20K miles and 20 trackdays on mine, they miked at 22.2 mm both sides last month. Starting to show heat checking. On my 3rd set OEM pads on fronts, went through 2 other sets front pads quickly tracking when OEM were not in stock last year. So a set of OEM pads lasts me about 8 track days.

I believe turning rotors a waste of money, just buy new ones when you are ready.

Disclaimer: I have Quaife, front brake cooling and never use ESC on track, so your level of brake pad/rotor abuse may vary.
 


OP
PhoenixM3

PhoenixM3

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Thread Starter #3
Dave posted fronts min thickness is 21mm. I have 20K miles and 20 trackdays on mine, they miked at 22.2 mm both sides last month. Starting to show heat checking. On my 3rd set OEM pads on fronts, went through 2 other sets front pads quickly tracking when OEM were not in stock last year. So a set of OEM pads lasts me about 8 track days.

I believe turning rotors a waste of money, just buy new ones when you are ready.

Disclaimer: I have Quaife, front brake cooling and never use ESC on track, so your level of brake pad/rotor abuse may vary.

Thanks, I have 11 laps on the Nurburgring, but half were in the rain. One tool I don't own is a micrometer.....
 


TyphoonFiST

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Rich-fizzield
#4
Keep in mind...the more metal that is taken off it takes away the rotors ability to dissipate heat adequately and can become out of round= pulsating brakes. If it was me I'd just buy new rotors. Better than doing it again prematurely due to frugalness.
 


Original J-Pat

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#5
I had all my rotors replaced for around $400 including labor so if your mechanically inclined you can probably do it yourself.
 


rexdriver85

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Allentown
#6
Rockauto has the front rotors for 37.79 and the rear rotors for 24.79. Both OEM Motorcraft.

I personally always install new rotors when doing a brake job on my personal vehicles. You can get away with having them cut, but as stated above, you run the risk of them warping down the line much faster. I like the piece of mind new rotors give me, my opinion. Good luck!
 


Siestarider

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Stuart
#7
You do not need a clue to replace rotors on these cars, if you even suspect something you are good enough.
 


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Tulsa
#8
I believe getting them turned between pad replacement is a waste of money. If you are getting pulsing through the brake pedal from rotor 'warp' then getting them turned will fix that, but if you're not having any issue I don't see a reason to.
 


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Sammamish
#9
I believe getting them turned between pad replacement is a waste of money. If you are getting pulsing through the brake pedal from rotor 'warp' then getting them turned will fix that, but if you're not having any issue I don't see a reason to.
I agree that turning is typically not cost effective. Often times, pulsation is not from the rotors being warped. It can be caused by spot, case hardening of the iron. In such cases, no amount of grinding or turning will stop that pulsating of the brakes. If your brakes pulse, replace the rotors. If they don't, turning is a waste of money.
 


OP
PhoenixM3

PhoenixM3

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Thread Starter #11
What were your times like? I just got my first two laps in yesterday.
Honestly, I haven't checked yet. To get a close idea of the lap time, I'll have to edit the GoPro videos to determine. I'll use the cone chicane for the starting point and the Bridgstone overpass at the end.
 


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Ramstein
#13
Honestly, I haven't checked yet. To get a close idea of the lap time, I'll have to edit the GoPro videos to determine. I'll use the cone chicane for the starting point and the Bridgstone overpass at the end.
When people say their times it's from the Bilstein (or at least that's what was on it yesterday) bridge to the gantry at the end. So First overhead to last overhead.
 


Waterfan

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#14
Rockauto has the front rotors for 37.79 and the rear rotors for 24.79. Both OEM Motorcraft.

I personally always install new rotors when doing a brake job on my personal vehicles. You can get away with having them cut, but as stated above, you run the risk of them warping down the line much faster. I like the piece of mind new rotors give me, my opinion. Good luck!
Better to leave as-is or replace. More cost-effective to simply replace them at those prices above. (You are paying 1/3 to 1/2 the price of new rotors to simply turn your current ones.

TL:DR - Another vote for replacing the rotors (at the same time for no additional/or trivial additional labor costs)
 


OP
PhoenixM3

PhoenixM3

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Thread Starter #15
Better to leave as-is or replace. More cost-effective to simply replace them at those prices above. (You are paying 1/3 to 1/2 the price of new rotors to simply turn your current ones.

TL:DR - Another vote for replacing the rotors (at the same time for no additional/or trivial additional labor costs)
I think that is what I'll do. Rockauto delivers overseas (and quickly) and it is hard to argue with those prices.
 


rexdriver85

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#16
Just please make sure to cross reference those OEM Motorcraft rotors from Rockauto with a Ford dealer if you can to make sure they are right.

A while ago people were ordering OEM brake pads from Rockauto and they weren't right. The issue has been fixed though, FYI. They now have the ST correct performance (crazy dust) pads and the "comfort pads" that came with the cars ordered with all season tires.

Good luck dude!
 




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